Rahere

And don't forget even a measuring strap will stretch in time.

You can't cross-stitch with a sloping tooth in that way, though. You get X s

Another question for those needing to cope with plate buckles, the pin can be offset from the rail enough to need to be taken into account in reducing the belt length. How do you cope with those who want to change the plate according to the time of day? Snaps? It also argues for having a decent rivet-setter, at the least a hand-lever machine. And then there's the market for plumbing straps in tornado alley...

That's why I talked of 5 and 7 holes. 5 if you're making for a known waist, but because belt lengths are normally sold in 2" increments, that means 2 more notches for those who fall between lengths one way or the other. 2" is 5 cm, so @HondoMan's 2.5cm is the same as our inch. For the ladies, 18"-34" should meet most needs (to be frank, 24 at the bottom end, but you'll always come across the sub-teen who just MUST have a small one). For guys, 28"-48", or 58" in the US.

I keep a small cutting mat and toughened glass underlay for these uses, together with a small steel square rather than a ruler. The mat lines are the measure-twice.

Depends on how much your waist's likely to change and how you intend to fix the buckle. Let's look at that last one first, as a fer-instance. I'll presume the most common is a loop-and-tongue buckle, where the "standing end" loops around a tongue, folding back on itself before being riveted. You'll need anything between one and two centimeters for the wrap, about 1.5cm for the retainer, and up to 5cm for riveting it back, or stitching if a light leather. Make that end up first, so you've then got a baseline. Belts made for the mass market also have to allow for the step between lengths - usually 5cm/2in units. That's not necessary if you're making for someone. Then, you have to allow for the individual. Our ladies waists can be significantly further around some weeks, which is sometimes catered for by elastic near the buckle. Or if you're coping with a banker, going from the gym to a Corporate Reception...in general, you'll allow a couple of inches for times it's sucked in, and another couple for blowouts. And finally, you need overlap in being able to pass the tongue comfortably through the buckle in the last instance. Say at least a couple of inches. So, in your case, a 34 inch waist, add 2.5 inches for the buckle end, another 2.5 inches for blow-out, and 3 inches for the tongue pass-through. 42 inches. Your hole punching starts about 5.5 inches in from the tip, and yuo'll want 5 running backwards from that point - 7 if commercial. Always remember you can'r add more on, but you can add more holes, so err on the generous side. You can always add another loop! In fact, in mediaeval days it was common to fold the belt tails around the buckle end and back under the tongue, leaving the surplus to dangle. One reason for this is because they might need to allow for extra layers of thick clothes, including furs, in winter.

How big is the thing? It sounds like a case where reversion to hand-sewing with the parts glued and drilled is the only way to avoid using thread that's so thick wear will be an issue - although kevlar thread is available.

Might also be influenced a little by the gap on the top of the right hand line.

Given nobody's mentioned them, JT Batchelor are London's guilty little secret, they're strictly visit-only because they have all the business they can cope with over the counter. Leather and core tools. For many things, ArtisanLeather.co.uk, then TR Lawman for shoemaking supplies, also Icanmakeshoes.com

Let's also give the end users viewpoints, horse and rider: https://www.tudorroseequine.co.uk/saddle-horse-rider/

See if you can spot where the original maker closed his last seam and work from there, I guess - one of those jobs where a sewing seam ripper comes in useful. I've never done it, but I was taught it's not unlike furniture stuffing. Are you replacing any leather? Don't forget the fundamental is to lift the tree well clear of the animal's spine.

In your case, I'd suggest a man-made fabric, heat-sealed edges, caught between fairly thin leather and a tough fabric - coutil level, perhaps denim. Is sand an issue? Don't forget she'll look to clean herself.

My bible's www.assembil.com How Patterns Work, as it goes from first principles hooking slopers in to adjustment, fitting and finishing.

I suspect they used vacuum forming onto a pre-glued holder. The headahe's getting the corners wrinckle-free.

Once you've got it flat, transfer to paper, copy, cut out the copy, and average out the sides. Trace onto fresh paper, add a seam allowance (it'll likely be different in some places) , and laminate.

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/671103346/dog-harness-pattern-dog-harness-diy-pdf?ref=shop_home_active_2&pro=1

Classic custom pattern-making uses a cling-film underwrap separator with gaffer tape on top to take a cast - it's easy to cut through. Then, with it opened, look for flat surfaces, use a sharpie to map out either panels or fillet cut-ins, then add seam allowances and cut a draft in cotton. Once you know that works, separate the panels and remake in leather. Given a fur coat in the subtropics is hot anyway, I'd strongly suggest using openweave fabrics in large panel areas. Something like aida tapestry material, in nylon.

If full binding is overkill, there are simpler bindings here: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/TheSiamBindery?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=772298742

Starting over, the leather used for the tails makes for a warmer or a marker. I come from a naval family, so my starting point's Clifton Ashley's Book of Knots, which gives you some hints on weighting the tail. For the handle, look for the very many online pages on whip handles. Given this has to be fitted to the end user, it's probably best to use 5oz chrome to wrap a handle with a welded square ring at the end (thonging turks heads tharefore) and a soft suede knotted to that as the tails - that way you can start fitting tougher chromes and hide as you go.

Reminds me of the limits to folding. The original signature concept was caused by printing on both sides of a really large sheet of paper, which would be folded in falf four times, and finally sewn down the middle of the last fold, to make a signature. Then they'd be tied together - bound - with the rest of the book, and only then guillotined to free the pages. In fact, the guillotine cut wasn't always done, so you once in a while might come across a book with the pages still needing separating. Rare, but not unknown. Which brings me to the point. You can't fold paper in half more than six times. Don't tell them that, just watch they try!

@stelmackr many thanks - my experience was hands-on in the days when hot lead was the norm.

It would likely tear out. The way I see it, those holes are ready-drilled to go in the direction of proper bookbinding, sewing with linen thread into 20-sheet signatures, then dipping in glue to consolidate the weak point between the holes, then secured onto linen strip as the inner spine with end boards, finally bound in leather and tooled.

Exactly. But don't keep it to yourself, this is a community and we pay back.

Fix the leather, one hand on the stamp, main hand thumping it with the thumb on top. The realisation is it gives far finer control than a mallet putting sideways vectors into the head of the stamp - and you can aways do that. More importantly, you can get a faster hit rate. The biggest issue's the variable size of chisel shaft, I think 7mm should do it, making for an M10 tube.

Any of you own a fencepost thumper? One of those 8" diameter tubes with a plate welded over the end and handles on the side, drives a post like butter? Now scale it down. Say 1cm diameter, 5cm long, no handles (OK, you could embed it in a malleable thermoplastic to fit in a clenched hand precisely, with a thumb over the top). And now you've got rid of the problem of unpredictable thrust when you use it on a punch. Simply plug the end of a tube, then thread it and add a knurled cap with a rubber shock pad? Dunno what to call it, but you can't patent it 'cos I said it here first!