Rahere

The classic answer's a rotary table/dividing head. Even a photocopy/print-out

I was thinking more along the lines of Abilene 2021 - I've got all my clothing on and I'm still frostbitten... Some of the pictures out there...

Added to which, as Winter comes and goes, you can't presume they'll use the middle hole, which makes this problematic in principle.

These are bookbinding techniques rather than leather, you'll have to look there. Even 3D cintered metal woun't be tough enough.

Heated presses are for large production runs. They're prohibitively expensive for one-offs. Those done in Victorian times used stamps heated by a burner.

Shearling would be better used as the underside of the pad, it's quite robust and will resist the tendency of the instrument to float on the shoulder.

If you have a community workshop like a hackerspace around, that might work

Proops on Etsy and Ebay sell the burnishers.

Hi, Bow, I've been looking at my own complex PTSD and have spotted a pattern in healing techniques. I'm not qualified, but it's making sense to the pros.

Might be worth saddle-soaping everything in there, then allow to dry in the sun.

mastersaddlers.co.uk/directory/Tim+Abbot

The retainer tab should face backwards, not forwards, where it'll constantly catch. I'd like a neodymium magnet near the tip to support it, without delaying the draw.

If it is, it'll have to be restuffed as well.

What climate was it used in, and how was it stored? I'm thinking fungal spots.

Use shearling, it's lambskin with the fleece still on, doesn't need clipping

A laser just cost me £120/$160. It's not for cutting, just marking.

If it works for you, great. A beginner is advided to geove first, so he punches in the ditch with the thread automatically recessed, although light pounding can improve on that too. I've accidentally found that channelling after surface-dying creates an impressive colour contrast as the original natural tan comes through.

The odd shape was originally from bowl-turning burl or similar root stock, which left little choice. His selection of goat for the liner may have allowed him to use the same bowl core, using the expansion of hide when wet to grip the goat tightly in drying. This is why the splits show on the lining. the goat's been forced into every crevice. From their approach, I don't think they'll have used artificial glues, but bone glues, which add to the waterproofing and rigidity.

They're essentially variations on turnshoe methods, with welting.

It must be said, schooled in heavy engineering, the idea of drop-forging something that small is bemusing! I'm more used to APC shells...

You'll still have shear breakages over time. However, utter rigidity may not be absolutely necessary for the purpose. Might some seriously thick boiled leather work?

It helps to use light machine oil to lubricate, wipe well so you don't stain the leather. You now know to clear the hole immediately!

I'm going to answer this as a rifleman rather than a leatherworker. As far as I'm concerned, rifle slings come in two kinds, firstly so you can cop out, carrying it from a shoulder, rather than with the proper care and attention it's owed as your lifesaving best buddy, and secondly as a very rigid extension to your skeleton improving your aim 100%. I know it gets heavy after five miles, it's you who's weak, going an extra mile each time means by the time you're doing 25 miles with it you're up to the job. It's that kind of sling which is softened with oil. The other kind, which falls perfectly to wrap my left forearm in a triangle from muzzle-forearm-butt, isn't going to flex or stretch, which means oil isn't really welcome. In this image, you can see the blue sling passing under his hand, over his elbow, behind his upper arm to the butt. I'd think more along the lines of water-stiffened.

I'm good for any chevaline filet d'anvers going.

https://www.youtube.com/user/Cechaflo