Rahere

Sun? Not a word I'm familiar with.

You want about 2-3mm space for where the leather hinges, on the front flap in particular but also on the lid. The other corners can be channelled in the flesh side to within 1mm of the grain side, then reinforced with glue once in position. Aluminium angle can be a lifesaver here., inside and out with gentle clamping. I've some long-reach C-clamps for bottom corners, but you could cut toggle clamps from ply quite cheaply. If it's for medical use, you'll need to rethink the fittings a bit, though.

Coming back to the subject, I'd hope his knives are a real and presennt danger to all leather and stitching. This is where the rivets come in, to use the press of thinker leather to protect the latter. As a design anarchist, although rolls are traditional, we've seen too many security incidents happen in public for this to be recommended, with cops shooting as soon as the word "knife" is heard. It might be wiser to go for a lockable storage box with liners designed as described. I've actually seen a freemason carrying a Templar sword on the London Underground, but boy was it swathed in chains and padlocks!

You'd be surprised how cheap transfer gold foil is. It's beaten so thin there's not enough to hit the pocket there.

I was trained as a buyer for a major engineering company, and one of the core maxims was, if you don't ask, you don't get! At the same time, they've probably bought bulk from their tannery, and might need help finding the colours you want. Why don't you ask them and come back here with tighter specs (thickness, area) if they can't help? I wouldn't look to surface-dye light tan here, because inevitable scuffs will show.

I tried a general search (top right) which came up with his postings, but sub-selecting on images and albums came up empty.

Try your usual dyework background, then a hotwork point and gold/silver foil under a traced template. Would a pyrography iron dialled right back work? It's been 50 years since I did anything like it. I'd be interesting to see if you could photocopy it onto transfer paper, as an alternative - that would have to be sealed on with a glaze.

It's fairly normal in tailoring to use a "toile" as a working draft to see how the pattern needs to be corrected first. They'd use a cheap cloth, rather than the quality one, so they get as close as possible before the nearly-finished real thing is taken to perfection. In this case, paper or card will show if seam allowances need to be added. Sometimes, these are quite generous and are cut back to a minimum once sewn. On outside curvers, where leather will bunch up on the inside, the bunching is often skived and trimmed down and what's left glued and hammered flat, so you don't see the flesh side if the edge is folded over.

Click on his name

Try shoemakers Taxan board

I don't think it's book covering he's after, but a pouch for it to go into.

@chiefjason Don't forget finding his way, though. The lighter weight's a viable compromise, with experience he'll find what works for him. I once knew a sergeant-major whose party piece was firing a machine-gun single-handed, like a pistol. You might need your 10oz for that!

That's great for the back plate, too thick to mold. Try 3-4oz.

One trick can be to allow yourself more seam allowance than normal, cut that back and finish it after the sewing's done. Dremels to the fore...

As far as the corners are concerned, it may be easier to start with them on the 45° and ease everything on from there. Possibly tack the centre bottom and a similar distance up the sides to stop everything chasing its tail in circles.

Ivan sell V- neck and quadrant radius punches - cut the V and punch the tip. Fancy curves, cut a template in plastic.

Shoemaking often uses materials in this way, reinforcing toes and heels. On a turned bag, the lining isn't turned, of course, and can carry the stiffener, wirh the top welt turned in, glued and sewn. You need a wider seam allowance and to skive the leather, of course.

Patience on the port, there's no point in shredding the leather. Keep coming back to it, damping and forming it closer. You might need to thicken up the trigger guard with tape, before doing the same.. It's more the undercut on the barrel causing the issue here, though. You have a clear image of what you want, now just make it happen. Have faith!

Going a step further back, a duct tape pattern is a simple solution. Cover the part to be fitted to in cling film, and add duct tape to that in 2 layers, horizontal and vertical. Cut free, then tear the surplus film away. Now draw the seams in and transfer to card, either by tracing or photocopying, and cut to shape, allowing some generosity. Copy to card again, simply by tracing around the forms, as the seam lines, and add some seam allowance using dividers once you know what goes where. Trace this onto your vinyl and add the seam lines using dividers again. Notch the seam allowance as necessary on curves, and sew up as a draft fitting, a toile, marking where it needs taking in or letting out. Redraw the pattern accordingly, test again, and if OK make up in leather. You may be able to trim the seam allowance after sewing (and possibly gluing). Remember to mark project, stage, part name and number, and date as you go. I plasticise my final forms.

This calls for a harder inner case. Make it in a thermoset plastic, sand it flat, and apply a leather cover over that. You might need a thin shim stopping the thermoset getting into every nook and cranny, ie just wrap it in 1oz scrap and cover that with cling film before covering with the plastic.

Things only tear if your tool doesn't cut because it's not sharp enough.

It's in circumference. Have the bullets on the outside and the retaining strap will grip like hell. On the inside, the curve releases its grip. Using a running strap eases it a biy, but essentially, you just discovered why the strap's only secured at the end!

It's a military bag, it shouldn't shine. Yes, I know Prussian spit and polish says otherwise, but they're opposite ends of the Germanophone world and the Swiss in general have something to live for. Fighting military look for shape, shine, silhouette, shadow, as giveaways something's hiding.

You might have to die it again afterwards, mind. I've used a stitch channeller on dyed tan, and the dye was only surface. It was actually quite a nice effect, in prectice.

I live in wet England, we need all the grip we can get!