Rahere

The one reason I can think of is if the leatherworker's less able in one hand.

It only sounds sensible if you're machine burnishing, and for that, use a drill press and take the work to it.

Take it a step further. Does it take an impression? If you've got a leather punch, try that, if not, try the head of a screw. Damp it first, then let it rest a minute, and press the head into it before letting it dry. If it holds the inpression, it's certainly not chrome.

This and the fact it's taking edgekote argues it's not chrome leather, though, whatever it is. Chrome doesn't allow water to soak in. Try tooling it, this may be a translation issue. Could it be a mixed-blend latigo?

Possibly excessive. You'd be suprised at what goes into wax for wooden floors, and the sprays used for general furniture. But you have to start somewhere. One thing that puzzles me, though, is that that leather doesn't look like chrome. I did a search for what you have, as you saw from the link, the products on the Avenue Moscow shop may well be, but that looks more like pull-up, a rather expensive veg tan, or latigo, a hybrid tan. What happens when you dampen the surface? Does it go darker for a while?

And that's the thought behind my question, because a heated liquid can take up more dye, becoming super-saturated. Chemistry studies nearly 60 years ago...

You'll have to experiment, looking at various furniture and floor waxes and sprays. Start with what works in your household. https://www.go4worldbusiness.com/suppliers/georgia/tbilisi/leather-products.html

Now we just need some French speaking person to chime in here... What it says on the tin. A 13mm needle plater for an adler 66g. Everything included.

Try to fold the edges to butt join in the middle of the underside, to save on edge finishing. To get really fancy, you could put a piping thread into each side.

Anyone tried dissolving the powder in the liquid?

Mind you, if you've face fungus like mine, a bit of increased black in it's no bad thing...

Think a sec. If the tape's removable, then the adhesive isn't that strong, and weak adhesive's going to be naff all use holding leather to something capable of resisting hammering. Find what works for you and perfect it, and if stick-back plastic works for them, miracles still happen.

The idea is it shouldn't need much finishing. As a result, there's not that much you can do with it either. OK, I'm being a bit harsh, but you get my outlook. It's more chemical than leather, so you're left with simple choices: how to finish edges, and maintain the surfaces. Polishes in effect, depends what you have locally.

I'd be thoughtful about cartel products.

You're not looking for a shop, but a biggish garage, on the north side of the mews.

Insufficient data, does not compute...ie what's the material, what's the dye? Suede's a cut, a layer, not a material. Black's notorious for transferring, possibly test a scrap sandwiched between some gash white cloth under a steam iron.

They're not interested in search engine optimization, they've all the business they can handle from reputation. While you're in the neighbourhood, search out William Gee on the Kingsland Road for haberdashery/thread, and Dalston Mill Fabrics at the far end of Ridley Road for fabrics. This is why the first edition of the Great British Sewing Bee was on the Balls Pond Road, it's the secret home of Central St Martins practice - and you don't get higher than young Ella, the US VP's stepdaughter, who's in and out of there. Sveta Kletina, sorry. And I should mention LeProvo for leather and findings, in Newcastle.

Given you're not far away, go talk to Batchelors leather on Culford Mews, Balls Pond Road, Dalston, and ask about their customer workshop. Next up, talk to icanmakeshoes, not least because they deal in retail Texon - suppliers in Northampton are strictly wholesale. Sveta Letina on Youtube can cover the ground for nowt.

I'm not certain resolene's wise here. A saddle's deliberately organic, living between hot sweaty horse and hot sweaty human, and a working saddle will pick up water. This is why it's racked, to air, afterwards. If your dressings are organic, they'll go with it. But acrylic resolene? No. The deeper layers may cause it to lose its keying. It's all about adhesion. If you put a blob of acrylic on a glazed surface, you give a fairish lip to lever on and it'll peel away eventually, because it's only gripping by a very few factors, mostly vacuum. Applying it to something lightly sanded, scuffed up, and it's got mechanical grip too. However, if it's sprayed on in a number of light layers, there's no clear edge. The grip's not any better, though.

Doing it right involves copious use of edge bevellers, too.

If nothing else works, sew into that area as if it's what was supposed to happen in the first place, even if it's not actually doing anything.

Brendan White makes the tunables. I was taught by Stiophan Hannigan, using a large shallow one by comparison. You need a crossbar or two set just under a fist's width below the akin, so you can damp it and keeep it stretched as desireb - this is how to get a number of notes from it, don't hold it in the centre. Use a water spray to keep it damp.

As a placeholder, leather was used in a number of really ancient instruments As a chordophone resonator, for example in the Senegalese Kora, and other folk harps and lyres. As a structural cover, for example in the cornett (note the double t - this is not a trumpet) and serpent As a drumskin (and still is, in folk instruments such as the bohran, where the stretch of veg tan is used to offer pitch change). The whip

To my mind the pockets are too shallow as well

Which is one heck of a distance between stitches! On the other hand, you don't want so many holes in the base it tears our.