Rahere

Having done that with tape, the secret's in a good glue - and I never found one. However, having found Renia's range, I might be forced to change my opinion. From there on in, it's simply glueing technique. I'd use the surface side down, offering the suede side for grip, pushing towards chrome tan, as it's bound to get soaked and you don't want your leather flopping as it stretches. Use really thin leather, almost vellum weight. The tapes are 1" width, but that's up to you. The end is finally turned inside the handle and held in place by a plastic stopper, force-fitted. Another approach would be to treat it like a rolled handbag handle, glued and sewn lengthwise, before the edges are thinned to nothing using edge beveller chisels.

I find a woodworker's nail pincers, sufficiently lubricated, is pretty close to the original pressure of the rivet setter and does a fairish job on reversing the deformation, without the danger of a dremel slipping. The 1" wide head has, thus far, been wide enough tp shed the load and the chamfer on the edge of each lip stops cutting in.

Depends on the motor, they come in all shapes and sizes,

Might explain it.

The reason I asked is because there used to be a tradition of cure-your-own, which may or may not have faded. The mottling suggests it was less than professional, I'm afraid. Hopefully a strine will pick issues with this pom and more usefully, tell you how to figsit.

It's common practice in clothing, when making a pattern, to put a debugging stage in, using a light fabric to correct things the draft missed. It's called a toile, from the French for a cheap canvas. What I noticed the other day was someone doing the same in shoemaking: they were using felt rather than leather, machine-tackng a couple of layers together with a zigzag stitch, as it's easy to cut to size and sew.

Dieselpunk's on Etsy - his patterns are excellent.

It has been tanned properly, I presume? Give it a wash through, at least.

I have asked for moderation on this. Sorry, I'd block you if I could. I was very specific to avoid this, but you went there regardless. I've learned from this, there are some subjects best avoided. And that's a pity, all things considered.

This is precisely the trolling I hoped to avoid. You took my comment, removed the context, and have turned passiva aggressive.

Next time, bury a small solid-core electrical cable under the lacing, as a stiffening armature.

Texon's specs: https://www.texon.com/footwear-components/ These are the volume wholesalers supplying the Northampton shoe industry (look at Kinky Boots for the recent heritage) http://www.trlawman.co.uk/products/footwear-materials/insole-materials There's quite a lot of detail on those pages

The history of Japanese metalworking was one where their available iron was low quality. What high-quality steel they had was excruciatingly expensive, so they hit on a successful combination of damascened blades which were very flexible but couldn't hold an edge, and a quality edge added. As a result, too much grinding could destroy it, and their tools are very forgiving. They also are very efficient (one saw I have cuts between the pencil mark). As a result, their water stones are very effective. A gringing paste is formed on the surface, and you need to learn how to hold at a steady angle. You simply drizzle it in pure water (I live in London where it's possibly harder than the steel) and stroke it. A bead forms, rub it off, then maintain the edge.

Japanese tools need Japanese maintenance. Water stones are far more affordable these days, and shaped slips are available. Keep the wider debate for western tools, please, folks. Different grades of steel.

Both. A Turk's Head is a kind of braid, just closed at the end into a stopper. To see what I mean, make one, but don't tighten it down. There's a gap in the crown, so put a dowel through that and tighten it onto that. Now slide the dowel down into the TH just a little and start to tighten it again.. The next trick is to rework it, keeping the weaving going for two more entire circles. Finally, generalise it so it can be done for a goodly distance. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/100627372897862264/ A useful tool can be to put tacks into the dowel (a broom handle must commonly) so you can weave without things untwisting. https://www.pinterest.jp/pin/784822672533926807/ In the picture, the handle's covered first, then the knob.

What he's done is cut an appropriate number of polyester "wraps" to fit, covered the upper raw edge in glued skived leather, then glued the lot together, sewing to reinforce the edges. Before poly, it would have been silk (which continued in the early days of credit cards in top-end goods). Because all the edges are turned, you could get away with chrome leather, but the life won't be as long. Ideally, kangaroo, because it's both tough and stretchy, but goat would be more realistic at your stage.

Texon's an artificial card stiffener mostly used in shoemaking. It's usually only stocked in wholesale quantities - in the UK, smaller amounts are available from www.icanmakeshoes.com, in London. The other materials are Butero Box leather, skived thinner where needed, for example in the turned edges, and a fairly thick standard polyester cloth fabric, we all have our favourite fabric stockists, mine's Dalston Mill Fabrics, on Ridley Road in Dalston, London. It's a short walk from JT Batchelors (London's secret leather suppliers) and William Gee, for haberdashery - they're shut Fridays, shabbat shalom. Ridley Road's the real street market behind Eastenders, in passing.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/b?node=11968010031 is an alternative approach. It saves the fiddling, flip it open at the card needed.

Another approach might be the Glove Box, working with the products in a sealed environment such that everything can be moved outside before opening by a helper. Whilst the pro kit is expensive, I saw at least one DIY design from psilocybin users which should work, using hardware store materials (3" toilet flanges, silicon sealant) within a restricted budget.

My pleasure. It goes without saying I'm suggesting you look at the excellent belt-making tutorials. The rivet work will in any case be covered by the tip of the straps. I notice your buckle is rather wider than the strap needs to be to go through the spurs. That imposes issues on the tip, so I'd suggest two more appropriately-sized buckles (unless, that is, the slots are also 3/4"!)

For precision work, I like the fine-pointed almond-shaped Japanese caligraphy brushes.

Given nobody else has posted, the issues are related to shoemaking, and for that, Sveta Kletina on Youtube's my goto. These are just advanced straps, much like miniature belts, where the width is set by the slots in the spur, normally half-inch. Men's might be 20", women's a little less, 18" long. Feet blister fairly easily when pressure is upon them, and spurs, even over boots, are worn for long periods. Although commercial straps don't do it, I'd skive the entire buckle end of the strap to half thickness from the point the end meets the main strap when folded, and glue and rivet the restore the strength.

Very thick leather can do that regardless of how sharp the punch is, mind you. It can be covered by turning the leather over and punching from the rear, as long as the holes aren't on the diagonal. For that, you'd have to counterpunch each hole individually with an awl.. In explosives terms, a camouflet is going on, the material doesn't just cut and push to the side, the wedge shape on the teeth pushes some ahead, and this causes the blow-out. Punching lightly in the other direchion from the rear pushes the "bruised" material back into the softer flesh side in the middle.

Some time I'll see if my burnishers fit the Dremel router table.

Still transfer it here because Wayback doesn't keep everything forever.