LiftPig

True. But firefighters can’t risk missing their gloves. And we like flashy stuff.

A glove strap I made for a guy in my department. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Critique welcome.

The "heavy duty" singer machines are good for denim and canvas but that's about it. If I have a sharp needle and give the motor a nudge with the hand wheel I can get it to sew 4-5 ounces of soft chrome tan. I wouldn't dream of trying to get it to do more. I'm hoping to make enough money this year on bits and pieces I sell to get a Cowboy or a Cobra.

Found that user joshhartung has made just the thing I need: "Cool link to that catalog, Double Daddy! I'm gonna check those guys out. I've posted the tape holder clip here if any one is interested." Thanks, Tugadude for the link to the previous thread.

I know the device is a tape measure holder. But the metal piece itself surely has a name that I don’t know. I’ve been asked to make a few is these but I don’t know what the metal bit is called or where to find them.

I've always used pricking irons and an awl for everything I've made and then done saddle stitching. I like the end result - the stitches have a nice slant to them, the holes close up and are nice and tight, and the end result feels super secure. I just wasn't sure if the punch method was necessary or just something to build a brand around. It seems like its a personal preference. Fredk - where did you get that slick set of pliers? One of my biggest challenges is having the time to do leatherwork. The most obvious time is after my kids in bed but then hammering on leather with a kid in the next room is asking for trouble. Thanks all for the replies.

this designer calls for punches. Anything I’ve seen made my Makers Leather Supply that’s hand sewn uses irons and awls. *I am not affiliated nor endorse Dieselpunk or Makers. Just using examples.

I've seen some patterns that call specifically for punching 1-1.5mm holes for stitching as opposed to using pricking irons and/or an awl. Is there an advantage to this or is it a personal preference thing?

They look pretty nice to me. The tooling is very crisp. Good work.

It doesn't look like that was done with a wheel. The reason I think so is that there's an impression at 45 degrees to the carving on the corner. It is a very nice pattern though.

10oz veg-tan belt. Airbrushed with Indelible brand dye (brunette). Ran a little antique over it and hand stitched the perimeter.

Here's the bag I made for my wife. Just a simple single compartment messenger bag with a pocket hidden inside. Magnetic closures. The bag in question would be similar (I haven't started building it yet) but he wants a handle. I think I'll integrate both good suggestions and attach the handle to the back of the bag and change the closures to forged brass J-hooks since I don't like the way the magnetic ones showed (but this is what she asked for specifically so....). This bag is 15.5" wide by 11" tall and 3" deep to accommodate her laptop. I built it inside out and then turned it right so the seams were all hidden (again per request). The main body is a 4.5oz oily pull up. The strap is a denser 6oz pull up that I sewed the edges of just for decoration. The closures are hidden by 2oz veg tan. Every stitch hand sewn.

That would work too. I can make them. I have a forge and some light steel or could get some brass.

I think this is the solution! Thank you.

I have a client who wants a messenger bag made. He wants magnetic closures but also wants a handle on the top like a briefcase. I told him that I didn't think the closures would be strong enough to keep the bag from opening if lifted by the handle. I'm happy to put a handle on (or anything else for that matter), but it will be purely ornamental. I did tell him that I'd ask if anyone had experience with some closures that would work - so here I am. He does not want any buckles, all closures must be hidden. tl;dr: Does anyone know any hidden closures for a messenger bag strong enough for the bag to be picked up by a handle like a briefcase?

A machine designed for stitching shoe soles would probably do the trick. They're made to get into tight corners. I've never used one though so I could be talking out the wrong orifice.