Cowboyleatherman

About edging your lace or called beveling your lace, does a couple of things. 1. It flattens the braide so it looks streamlined. On some areas of like Kangaroo and rawhide lacing it can be thinner but it will lock in the lace so it gets a tighter grip making it nonmovable if it gets wet. Stores do have lace that have beveled edges. Depending on the thickness, especially on rawhide braiding the thicker it is, if flat braiding, the lacing will lay in better with its neighboring lace not having those little pooches popping out making it look tacky. Especially when doing any round braiding. 2. Lace that has beveled edges just plain looks better and has a more professional appearance. That being said, most lace that is for double loop lace is already made and prepped for braiding. Kind of like rexlace. I use several different kinds for my lacing. I do use realeather lace. Its still good. However, I buy from other lace retailers that deal in kangaroo lace. But keep in mind that purchasing quality lace like kangaroo is better because its epidermal tissue tensile strength is stronger than other leathers but it sometimes will not always be prepped for the double loop lacing. So I would invest in a beveler. Then invest in a good cream for braiding to tighten the laces in the braid, make it easier on the hands, and keep the braids strong and durable over time or else they will dry out and crack and break. This in return replenishes the oils and creams and conditioners in the braids strands. Here are some of my favorite videos on hand made creams for lacing. These videos also include, splitting lace, beveling, and lacing. https://youtube.com/@gotstyledesigns

I had that problem a while ago. I just had to deal with it and pay more attention to my lacing and check my work every couple of inches or everytime I made a loop to make sure. The only thing I could figure out is make your strands longer on each side and when you get to that part either pull strands out of your work risking the messy leather or just keep going and pull out the work on the other end. In my experience, depending on how long the leather braid stretch is in the leather braid, you just take that section and splice the section. And if you do it right, it will hide the leather lace where it wont come undone. Tandy leather has a good video where you are splicing your leather. But I hate doing this so I add another foot or two onto my braiding lace.

This is a new sharpening tool that Nigel Armitage has come.out with sharpening curved blades.

I have an Emdeko JA21 Sewing Machine and SCHMETZ leather Needles 130/705 HLL 110/18. Are these the right needles.

Reading the comments are great. I had watched Corter Leathers video on it and loved it before I posted my comment. Working in my own studio I really have learned that when somebody can see through all the bull, thats what matters is that the concept of a jig , but its usefulness is over the top unless your actually trained in it and utilize it in your everyday work. I wont use them. Unless your in the shop actually using the jigs for anything technical and already know how to use them and the tools they modified the design from, their basically useless. There are better tools to use in the shop as for myself. Mascon Leather only does smaller items which is no big deal, he can be considered as an influencer and is successful in his niche, which to me is not an issue. I know he has had experience in wood working as myself. But the tools I would find hard to use in saddle work and other types of work unless the people using them finds them masterfully useful. Over the years I had to learn all types of leather working tools and even ones I don't use in the leatherworking trade, and I am still learning. In some ares of leatherworking I have had to learn armor, tailoring, metalworking, Jewelry, design, photography, sewing, book binding, carving, metal smiting etc, customizing my own tools and such. But then we are also learning new tools and improving old tools. And coming into the new era of leatherworking and the work needed, we still are always improving. I made the comment because in a way I can see some uses for what they could be used for as far as measuring and learning that part of the process. I love the other comments in this section and I welcome any feedback as far as positive or negative as the uses. I thought they were too much for my taste when I checked them out. And I am glad Corter Leather made his video. I just want a video to suggest the concept changes and other master leather-workers to really give some of their feedback on how the tools and things can be improved if any. Because as I understand it, when watching Mascon's video on them, they have a combination of rulers of metric and standard that can come in handy. But I am made on precision as well and would not be sure how they would fit in my shop.

Bump jigs are used in leather craft however the term "bump jig" is readily used in wood working and machinery bumping the jig against the wood/metal but called a "positioning square" to make it simple to square or find the true angle of an object to cut, position, or shape. In terms of the word, its relatively new word in leathercraft but other tools in the wood working/machinery trade have been around for a long time and have been used in leatherwork. Mascon Leather & Zeebeeleather has introduced the relatively new term to the industry combining tools of other mechanical trades to the leather industry combining old tools to the leatherwork help tools as helpful guides.There is no term or definition as so called a "bump Jig" as a defined term in any dictionary or thesaurus at this time. This is not a new concept, but the combination of old with the new is great. Because it takes the guessing game to a whole new level of precision if used correctly as well as understanding your measuring tools and jigs.

I researched it, labeling and bobbins are the same, its just the look.

Good point, as a person who sells custom made leather goods, its good business to know who is who and quality. If I make a product and I know the product is well worth it, I want others to know about it. And if I can work with it I want others to know about it. Why be selfish. Tandy still sells it. Its on their website.

I am getting the feeling that some people are thinking that these two threads are the same thing. As I have worked in manufacturing, I know first hand what it means to copy a line of processing looks for a specific product. This means if a person from the UK is making a bobbin with a thread that looks similar to that of a other product, that just means that it is copying the look for the sellers market. Allot of companies purchase their bobbins from specific manufacturers to be mainstream with the look. If I wanted to right now, I could go to a bobbin company and probably purchase those same things. But companies also source from same label makers too. Linen is different from Hemp. The scientific research done already testifies of that. Its , because of the processing, and other things related to it that makes it difficult to process, most thread companies deal with synthetics and linen thread because it is more abundantly used in mainstream, and the most likely unassociated with criminal activity and smaller distributors. If you compare a thread look you will never get anywhere, but I would agree with the strength lays with, fibers, tensile strength, manufacture processing, testing, and verification. Threads that are used in finer work call for greater strength in the smaller thread. Allot of people are going for the natural fiber and preferr it because it is more important for the ecosystem. In the market for certain threads is highly competitive. They probably decided to go with company to produce this thread because it was willing to produce the production under cover from other major manufacturers without harm of driving them out of production. It's only my guess.

I have a background on spinning and history of textile, and I also know threads pretty well. But that does not say I am an expert. Carriage thread is unique in its fibers and is not like anything close to linen. Because the tensile strength outlasts that of other types of linen threads it should be no surprise that people should in my opinion be flocking to it. But because of its high price and origin I think people are just getting to understand how good it is. And it is gaining some popularity because Cannibus, which I don't care for is becoming more popular and mainstream.

I don't really know about Amy Roke except her Pricking Irons. But I would have to research that myself, not that I think its a farce or anything.

The product is a Chinese made product. I called Tandy Leather and that is what they said. They could only tell me where the manufacturers were from China. I have dealt with big manufacturers and they don't sell to people unless it is purchased in bulk. On the internet, I've searched now for close to six hours trying to find Chinese manufacturers and only found a couple of just thread manufacturers. But not anything. Some companies have policies that they can give you information about the product but some worry about giving too much information on their packaging. As it would hurt their competition to sell to smaller businesses. But they were very frank and honest and even they did not have that information at hand. They just said it was from China. I researched it before and I looked for the info on the packaging, I even suggested looking at the packaging again and they said that is probably what I should do too. My other angle is to do a search asking Chinese leather workers about the thread. I thought of looking at Chinese sellers of Pricking Irons and went at this angle, but when I searched, I only found one that I knew and their thread was not a carriage thread. It was different.

I am doing a research article for Carriage Hand sewing thread. I was recently told it is manufactured in China. I have been looking in several areas including Tandy Leather for the manufacturer information. But can't find anything. Please help.

The reason this is a superior thread is because of the thread fibers themselves. I have been working with allot of threads natural, and synthetic alike. Doing a study of textile fibers in weaving and still studying new fibers. And I have been workimg with Hemp for over 25 years. As I studied Hemp as a durable fiber, I discovered its natural uses in binding items, fishing nets, and jewelry alike. Its wicks out moisture and naturally dries. It does not rot like conventional linens does. It will last four times as long as linen. I use the Ritza Tiger thread and and Fil Au Chinois thread as well. Although the carrage thread is awesome, it is as well you all know more expensive. I would only use this thread on high luxury items or items that need an extra strength alternative to synthetic fibers.