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Tequila

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Posts posted by Tequila

  1. Posted · Report reply

    On 8/21/2023 at 9:43 PM, Handstitched said:

    @Tequila All my  VT leather  comes from Italy , good stuff too :yes: . I use  VT Tarino butts, shoulders and sides of varying thicknesses, it moulds, stamps and carves well too.  . Theres a supplier in Perth here in Oz . 

    HS

    Thanks, for what I’m doing getting a dyed through high end leather would greatly improve it’s appeal. 

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I wrote to Buckle Guy and this was the answer that they sent:

    Thanks for reaching out. The leather itself would be great for wet molding, but that would be a pretty thin weight. We would recommend either going with a thicker option, or at the least, adding a second layer of that leather. 

    I’m leaning with @Heartless (at least for the first couple) since it’s a new mold and I want to take some of the variables out.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    On 5/21/2023 at 2:25 PM, fredk said:

    Well, I have a sort-of beader. It works

    swivel knife beader, 01LWs.jpg

    swivel knife beader, 03LWs.jpg

    I made the working end at a slight angle. I thought it would be easier to work

    swivel knife beader, 04LWs.jpg

    swivel knife beader, 05LWs.jpg

    Total width across is about 6.5mm (1/4 inch), with the bead about 4mm

    The test leather is only 2.1mm (5 oz ?) thick. The beader needs running to and back, going deeper on each run. I went as deep as I could on my test piece but I reckon I would get a better rounded bead on thicker leather

    I might try to make a smaller sized beader

     

     

    I like it, nice rounded top, that’s what I’m after. 

    20 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

    i made one today thought i would share. Found a long shank bolt with the right size shank to fit the knife. Cut to length, squared the hex with a sander. cut the round first , then narrowed the square to what i figured i wanted and filed in the outside bevel. Took about 30 minutes.

    I would suggest stainless bolts if you can find them but its not a problem to use regular bolts. 

    beader!.jpg

    Your creativity and inventiveness never cease to amaze me. 

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Let me start off by saying that I’m not that great, only a hobbier and only make things for myself or to give away.  I haven’t been able to do any leather work for almost a year and thought I’d get back into it slowly by making some coasters.  My thought is to have a bead around the edge.  In the past when I tried to get that look I would cut a line with a swivel knife and then hand stamp using a beveler.  It not only took time but I never really got the look that I was trying for.  I saw that Barry King sells beader blades for a swivel knife, has anyone tried them?  If you don’t use that what do you use?  I saw that sometimes Bruce Johnson has a push beader in stock, would it be better for me to wait till he has one again?

    Thanks for the insight

  14. Posted · Report reply

    @Bullduke  the customer service is exactly what I bought a 26 from them a couple of years ago.  I had a problem with mine (no where near as bad as yours) that was self induced.  But when I called up LMC they took the time to walk me through the repair and even sent pictures of the parts I needed to adjust.  I’m glad to hear that they were so helpful.  I for one would love to know what they found with the machines when they got them back.  Now that you’re moving to a Class 4 you might want to get with some of the members about a part that RockyAussie sells for the 4 that expands the sewing capabilities. 

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Who would use an app like that?  If you’re a customer you’d need to have the leather in front of you and I’d think I’d rely on my eyes and hands to find a defect.  The online retailers would post pictures if they wanted to show a defect.  And tanneries would reject a badly damaged hide and their master tanners know what is acceptable and what is not.  Your heart is in the right place, I just don’t see a practical application for this. 

  23. Posted · Report reply

    25 minutes ago, AndrewWR said:

    All Hand sewn, @PastorBob. I don't have sewing machine can't justify the cost or space as a hobbyist. If I was running a business, it'd be different but I think I still prefer the netness and quality of hand sewn leather.

    Which brings me to  @Tequila 's question:

    327937941_20220917_194521(Large).thumb.jpg.d05776cf663bde0bb067ef389e4860a8.jpg

    Tequila, I don't think what I did here can be done with a machine (But I'm willing to be corrected on that). Because it's hand sewn, I punch all the holes first and each stitch pulls them into alignment close to the inner radius. I wet the middle of the edging strip with a cotton bud so the leather is more inclined to stretch around the outer radius. This stretch is only a fraction of a millimeter at a time, since the stitches are 4mm spacing. As I understand it, machine sewing doesn't allow this progressive tension so the outer radius is unstretched and the inner radius puckers under compression. 

    This is time consuming work but I happen to think it's worth it.

    I don’t have as much patience as you, so a tip of the hat to you for that long tedious work, and your right the outcome was worth the effort.  Thanks for sharing your knowledge and technique with everyone. :rockon:

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