Beanwood

Thanks Constabulary. That looks hopeful - I couldn't understand why it wouldn't work - as long as the diameter is the same. I THINK I've traced the diameter to 6.4mm - I'll see if I can firm that up, or get hold of a micrometer to check it.

OK - so this might seem a silly question.. but how hard is it to replace a needle bar? On my Brother TZ1-B651, the needle snapped right up inside the bar. (Moment of madness on my part I think, somehow) The remnants of the shank (1/4") was well and truly stuck in the bar, and wouldn't come out, so I ended up removing the needle bar from the machine, and using compressed air to loosen the needle part until I could nudge it out far enough to grab and pull with pliers. But getting the bar out was far from easy - and took a bit of force - as the end was slghtly enlarged - I don't know why. But it was tough coming out, and is likely to be togh to re-insert. I assume I need to replace the needle bar. (Do I?) As this machine uses a different needle size to my others, can I just change the needle bar to a 'different' one, so my needles become interchangeable?. The bar outside diameter must be the critical factor, as the tolerances on the sliding surfaces are pretty tight. Is there a standard - I presume not, otherwise why would there be so many options....

Please post if you try Wiz's idea - I'm interested to see how you get on with remedying this. I've not had too much success with sewing Biothane either - the same issue as you have, and interestingly also with the H2. I have a similar issue sewing other materials on my bartack machine - the thread doesn't pull into the materail, but it can make a REALLY tight knot, so 'squashing' the multiple layers. I hadn't considered the check spring adjustment.

Wow that's some thread resurrection!! And only loosley off topic....

I wouldn't go for that one personally. That £500 doesn't include a table or motor (Extra £100!) and then the motor may wel be 3-phase which you're unlikely to want. It states made in Scotland and Germany as a selling point - yet clearly shows 'Made in Japan' on the pictures (Which may well be a good thing but just shows a complete lack of care when prepping the ad) It's also looking very tired.

I don't have one of these, but... Is it a case of pressing it so the needle is in up or down position by default when you stop sewing. If you press the button again, it flips the default to the other?

Please excuse my ignorance but I've not seen this term before - is it a type of walking foot or similar?

Well, having not yet tried carving, I'd have been very happy with the 3 yr old version - but the latest is just wonderful.

Is it single phase, or three phase? I've noticed a few sales ads here (UK) where they omit to mention that the motor is 3phase, which isn't common domestically over here.

I really like the look of that as a solution! I'm sure I can find someone to machine the groove, but I think I'll struggle more to find a handwheel like that in the first place.

Great - 550w is a fair bit cheaper, but wth @Constabulary having the 750w on the same sort of combination I'm sorely tempted to spend the extra. 1 stitch every 2 1/2 seconds !!!!! Crazy slow..I'd probably forget what I was doing befoe I got to the end of a run.

Looks like I'm on the right track then. How do I get a larger handwheel - is it literally just finding a larger pulley, and usnig that as a wheel

Thanks @Michiel - I mistyped in my original post - it's actually a TZ1- B651 - very similar indeed to the B652. As you say - no walking foot unfortunately, but it's very solid, and parts are still readily available.

Thanks @cynthiab no it's not a clone - it probably predates the Sailrite by quite a few years, and is Japanese made, so is tough as old boots.

Perfect thanks - I'm just musing on adding that £140 to my order, and didn't want to commit that cash until someone confirmed I'm not talking rubbish I guess I was just trying to be cheap, and go for the 550W ...