Beanwood

Thanks Constabulary. That looks hopeful - I couldn't understand why it wouldn't work - as long as the diameter is the same. I THINK I've traced the diameter to 6.4mm - I'll see if I can firm that up, or get hold of a micrometer to check it.

OK - so this might seem a silly question.. but how hard is it to replace a needle bar? On my Brother TZ1-B651, the needle snapped right up inside the bar. (Moment of madness on my part I think, somehow) The remnants of the shank (1/4") was well and truly stuck in the bar, and wouldn't come out, so I ended up removing the needle bar from the machine, and using compressed air to loosen the needle part until I could nudge it out far enough to grab and pull with pliers. But getting the bar out was far from easy - and took a bit of force - as the end was slghtly enlarged - I don't know why. But it was tough coming out, and is likely to be togh to re-insert. I assume I need to replace the needle bar. (Do I?) As this machine uses a different needle size to my others, can I just change the needle bar to a 'different' one, so my needles become interchangeable?. The bar outside diameter must be the critical factor, as the tolerances on the sliding surfaces are pretty tight. Is there a standard - I presume not, otherwise why would there be so many options....

Please post if you try Wiz's idea - I'm interested to see how you get on with remedying this. I've not had too much success with sewing Biothane either - the same issue as you have, and interestingly also with the H2. I have a similar issue sewing other materials on my bartack machine - the thread doesn't pull into the materail, but it can make a REALLY tight knot, so 'squashing' the multiple layers. I hadn't considered the check spring adjustment.

Wow that's some thread resurrection!! And only loosley off topic....

I wouldn't go for that one personally. That £500 doesn't include a table or motor (Extra £100!) and then the motor may wel be 3-phase which you're unlikely to want. It states made in Scotland and Germany as a selling point - yet clearly shows 'Made in Japan' on the pictures (Which may well be a good thing but just shows a complete lack of care when prepping the ad) It's also looking very tired.

I don't have one of these, but... Is it a case of pressing it so the needle is in up or down position by default when you stop sewing. If you press the button again, it flips the default to the other?

Please excuse my ignorance but I've not seen this term before - is it a type of walking foot or similar?

Well, having not yet tried carving, I'd have been very happy with the 3 yr old version - but the latest is just wonderful.

Is it single phase, or three phase? I've noticed a few sales ads here (UK) where they omit to mention that the motor is 3phase, which isn't common domestically over here.

I really like the look of that as a solution! I'm sure I can find someone to machine the groove, but I think I'll struggle more to find a handwheel like that in the first place.

Great - 550w is a fair bit cheaper, but wth @Constabulary having the 750w on the same sort of combination I'm sorely tempted to spend the extra. 1 stitch every 2 1/2 seconds !!!!! Crazy slow..I'd probably forget what I was doing befoe I got to the end of a run.

Looks like I'm on the right track then. How do I get a larger handwheel - is it literally just finding a larger pulley, and usnig that as a wheel

Thanks @Michiel - I mistyped in my original post - it's actually a TZ1- B651 - very similar indeed to the B652. As you say - no walking foot unfortunately, but it's very solid, and parts are still readily available.

Thanks @cynthiab no it's not a clone - it probably predates the Sailrite by quite a few years, and is Japanese made, so is tough as old boots.

Perfect thanks - I'm just musing on adding that £140 to my order, and didn't want to commit that cash until someone confirmed I'm not talking rubbish I guess I was just trying to be cheap, and go for the 550W ...

I'm stil playing with my Brother LZ1-B651. It does 12mm zigzag, and it is not designed to sew big thick and heavy stuff.... However I need to close off 'loose ends' of webbing, and that works really well by zigzag stitching them onto another piece of webbing . From time to time though it get's stuck, so I need to increase the torque somehow, as well as slow the speed. I've made and installed a 6" to 2" speed reducer, and it's now slow enough, but still doesn't have the punch I need to push through several layers of webbing. It has the original clutch motor, so I'm inclined to think installing a servo motor is the way to go - is that right or am I wasting my time? If it's right, is there much difference between a 3/4p or 1hp motor? I'm UK based, so will need to go with something from over here, rather than the forum sponsors/contributors.

That one looks awesome - I've tried similar in the past, and never made them look that good!

Good to see you got the Rex sewing well enough to make things! Good result.

You can use an arbor press - I have 3 small ones set up for cutting ends of leather/webbing, cutting holes, and pressing in rivets/press studs. They're cheap enough to buy, and make life really easy.

The check spring you've put in - is it actually moving? It needs to start in the position shown in red, then move up to where it's shown in your photo. It returns to the red position, keeping the thread tension when the take up lever drops down again..

I think as it comes down from the first tension pulley to the second, it should go direct, not around the 'hook'. Once around the botttom tension disc, that's when you go through the bottom hook, and check spring (That appears to be missing). Are you sure it's seated into the tension discs, and not just sat around the edges. (If they're too tight, it may not be all the way 'in') Are we allowed to link to You tube on here ? If so, look at this, about 1:30 in and onwards.

Assuming this is still the Rex from the other topic - and that's the top thread that's loose? So tighten the top thread tension just a bit should help?

I'm only an amateur compared to most on here, but I think your top tension needs to tighten a litle to bring the knot more central in the leather.

I need to do something similar from time to time - but also need to move the folder out of the way - so use a magnetic guide - effectively it's a couple of strong magnets on a bar. Sailrite sells one - but like you I'm in the UK, so made my own. I've just checked and someone on E bay sells them in UK if that helps (Go for the 6" long to give a better guide) FORGET THIS - I've just re-read the OP, and you want to attach a folder, not an edge guide.... (Sorry )

Thanks - unfrotunately the 135x17 won't fit - the shank is too large, hence wanting to swap the needle bar. Following your post though, I see I can get larger size with the same 1.63mm shank - so that's worth a look. I have missed the obvious though - measuring what the maximum stroke of the machine is at the moment, and whether I can get a longer needle (Do they exist?) in 16x95.