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Everything posted by SUP
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Stunning work! Your meticulous care to detail is awe inspiring!
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"As has been said"... One way of putting it, I guess.😄 Different suppliers using different sources of varying qualities. The oil thickening and turning liquid again I can understand. But if the oil has a rancid smell, I wonder whether it will not transfer to the leather and linger.
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If the oil has a rancid stench, I would not use it. Normally, neetsfoot oil as well as the compounded mix last for a long time. The compounded oil has petroleum based products added, which have an even longer shelf life. It does not smell rancid or of much of anything. So if the oil smells, there might be something else added to replace some of the neetsfoot oil, maybe another oil altogether, that is not petroleum based. It could be anything, from olive to coconut to palm oil to even linseed oil, all of which are cheaper than neetfoot oil, so could be adulterants. All would harden at cooler temperatures and cause the cloudiness. All would also turn rancid with exposure to air, unlike neetsfoot oil.
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Thank you for that. 🙂
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I need to store the deerskins that I have, as I try to determine how exactly to choose the additional deerskins I need for my next project, as no one here seems to know the exact answer to my question, asked in another thread. As I wait, I found a way to store the deerskins, that has not damaged the deerskins as yet. So I thought I would share it here for newbies in the field like me. Others might be using the same method as well, of course.. I need this way because I do not have space to hang them all up. I store my deerskins in large zip-lock bags, the ones I received clothes in, actually. I leave sufficient air inside to provide a buffer against the weight of leather placed on top and then zip it tight. The air inside prevents damage and give it air, as it were. Of course, I have not kept them in this way for long periods as of yet, but for short periods, it works. Deerskin is notorious for getting wrinkled, so this is an easy way to prevent that. You get similar large zip lock bags online as well. Come to think of it, other leathers that might crease could be stored in a similar way as well. Hope that information helps somebody.
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I would like to make a deerskin vest or jacket. For that I need deerskin, which I need to purchase. The thing is, I received free deerskins some time ago and used one of them to make moccasins, which I have been using daily. They get dirty and I wash them, saddle soap and a scrub and rinse under the kitchen tap, then squeeze gently and allow to dry. Then wear again. They don't shrink or wrinkle or dry out. I conditioned them once with the Chemical guy conditioner and never since then. They are soft and comfortable and going strong. They are clearly chrome-tanned, the gold color one sees so much of. I want similar deerskins for my jacket. When I look online though, all I see is that deerskin should not be washed, certainly not like I wash my moccasins, and then loads of information on how to clean buckskin and deerskin, all saying, "DON"T WASH". I got another deer-skin, also clearly chrome tanned - it is a light mocha in color, in another lot, and that does not take to water well. It does what everyone says happens - darkens, stiffens and the color change is permanent. Luckily I tried it on a small cut-out piece, so the entire thing is not damaged. So my question is, can anyone guide me on how to select deerskins that are like those of my moccasins and not the mocha one? I have been searching online and cannot find information on that. Deerskin is too expensive to do a 'trial and error'.
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Looks like you got your workshop sorted out. 🙂 I like that pipe rest. So practical. Plenty of other uses for that pattern too, it is so simple and versatile. Incidentally, is that a new meerschaum?
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I was thinking, just 'Leather professional' sounds good. After that, it is the quality of work that defines the person. I, for one, would not call myself that unless I took it up as a profession and consider myself good enough to do so. Until then, I am fine with leatherworker or leather hobbyist. The word 'professional' might prevent that. It is used everywhere and means something specific. 'Worker' and crafter' mean something specific as well, Unfortunately, 'worker' is associated with workers that we find everywhere who do valuable work but are not experts as yet in that field. And 'crafters' is as you describe above, @BlackDragon But the word 'professional' still has some esteem, however long it remains.
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The majority of the people here are experts and professionals. Professional leatherwork - there should be a proper noun for that. I mean, farmers call themselves 'agriculturists', I discovered some time ago. I don't blame them. When we say 'farmer' the layman sees someone in overalls standing in a field, but an agriculturist brings a different vision to mind. Farmers are as expert in their field as doctors in medicine. So they deserve that respect. As do leatherworkers. So a name that commands that respect is long overdue, maybe. In medicine, everyone is a doctor but individuals specialize - neurologist, surgeon, ophthalmologist etc. So a leather professional, who is a saddler, cordwainer, etc. That would command the respect that is deserved. My two bits.
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According to Google... Factor Leatherworker Leathercrafter General view This is a broad term for anyone who works with leather professionally. It encompasses specialists like saddle-makers, cobblers, and artisans for fashion companies. In some contexts, particularly in the US, "crafter" can imply a hobbyist who works for enjoyment rather than profit. However, "craftsman" is widely recognized as indicating a high level of skill or artistry. Business vs. hobby The term "leatherworker" is often associated with the business or professional aspects of the trade, where profit is a key driver. The term "leathercrafter" can suggest an individual who is creating items for personal enjoyment. Scope of work A leatherworker might specialize in a single area, such as repairing shoes, or assemble pre-cut leather into finished products. A leathercrafter is more often associated with the process of making a product from scratch—including cutting, patterning, and finishing the leather. Level of artistry While many leatherworkers are highly skilled artisans, the term itself does not always carry the same emphasis on artistry as "craftsman" or "crafter". Many associate the term "craft" with the skill and artistry required to create a unique item. A person with this mindset may use "crafter" or the more formal "craftsman" to emphasize their dedication and skill.
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That is very nice of you @NerdyLeather. It must have taken you so long to do it. Thank you. Thanks for converting it into pdf form @Johanna
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Ahh. That makes sense. Putting it in the correct position would have validated the use of the ruler though. Surprised they did not think of that.
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I am lost. Isn't the center point of 12 inches, 6 inches? So why is it 5.5 inches here? I use thread. Cut to exact length of object, fold in half, hold from one end and... Voila!
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Brasso. Or tamarind paste. Rinse both out well once clean.
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Spectacle case
SUP replied to Stetson912's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Yes. I know. I have a short attention span or maybe I'm just impatient, so this works well for me.😄 -
You get soft plastic mallets specifically for this, these days. Amazon.com: barenx Leather Craft Puzzle Mold Punch Stick Cylinder Rod Hammer DIY Handicraft Just holding it in place works for me because I can see where I need to hit the soft mallet and am not working blind like when the die is placed cutting side down.
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Spectacle case
SUP replied to Stetson912's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
I made one of these when I first started leatherwork 2 1/2 years ago. Used scrap embossed leather because it was firm enough. Just rivets, no stitching, one of the reasons why I made it! Still in use today and family swears by it. Got the pattern from Etsy. I was an absolute newbie, so needed a pattern then. The wrapping lace is also scrap but soft upholstery leather. It is supposed to have a stiff tip to insert into the cross piece after wrapping around the case but never got around to it. It stays in place tucked in and family says that that is easier. Even for a newbie, it took all of half an hour to make it. Incidentally, nice to hear someone else call it a spectacles case. Everyone here insists it is an eyeglasses case. Eye glasses, for some reason, makes me think of monocles and lorgnettes and pince nez. 😄 -
Spectacle case
SUP replied to Stetson912's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
That will polish the pattern up very well. But it will get tossed around a bit in bags and in cars and drawers. So this might be sturdier. -
Spectacle case
SUP replied to Stetson912's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Plenty of people who actually do not carry everything but the kitchen sink on their belts, you know. 🙂 It is actually a popular glasses case pattern, isn't it? Simple and elegant. 😀 -
That looks easier than I expected! I should be able to make that. Maybe a dog collar itself for my Poochie as I learn how to lace like that. Thanks @TomE
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Thank you @Dwight for taking the time to explain how it was done. 😃 Now that you describe it, I can see how it was done that way. Like you say, a lot of work but it looks beautiful.
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If you want a kit, you can get them on Amazon but if you will be making leather repairs frequently, if might make more sense to buy the basic items like Chuck says. The items in kits are fine for hobbyists but I think you will need better quality for your customers. For items like sheaths, Tiger or Rhino thread should work. The ones on Amazon you cannot depend on if the brand is unproven and unknown. For cutting, your box cutter is fine but change the blades if you are cutting any leather to repair. I know that you are a bladesmith so you might find it more convenient to get a leather knife and sharpen it a needed. Needles, John James, for finishing, Tokonole for the edges, Resolene, Supershene, Aussies and any others you might come across, for finishing the rest of the sheath. Search on this site. You will find plenty of information about them. If you have a leather store like Tandy's near by, you could go there. Their staff is sometimes very helpful although do come here and confirm what they say. Some of them try to push the products they carry even if not as good as others! Incidentally, to search on this site, use the following on google: Site:leatherworker.net search term Hope that helps a bit.
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I found this pattern online and would like to learn how to do the pattern on the front flap. What type of weaving is it? I would appreciate any information.