NoahL

They responded to me this morning. Did you use the form on their site or e-mail them directly with the @aol.com address they have on their Contact page? It would appear that the form isn't working correctly. In any case, they said that they don't usually handle small orders, so people like Lobo and katsass who do large quantities could probably get a better handle on it. That said, if I send them a self-addressed padded envelope with a check for the amount the parts cost they will send them to me--not all that convenient, but if the clips and thumb breaks are what I want then I don't mind too much.

Well that would be disappointing--we'll see how things turn out, then.

I've heard of him, but that's not actually what I found. These are the people I found: http://www.jrmclips.com/product-line-clips.html I haven't tried them yet, but I just e-mailed them for a quote so we'll see what happens.

I found a place that does custom steel stampings for holster clips, shanks, and thumb breaks. I'll post the link when I get home from work (it's blocked here)

I did--that's the way I've seen it in tutorials, so I assumed that was what you meant. I never did see the point in doing that since it just meant the hole needed to be larger. I also go through the same side first, katsass

That holster looks very nice! Regarding stitching, although I certainly don't have the experience of most of the people who have already weighed in, I chuck one of my harness needles in my drill press to make my holes--no leather removal, very precisely sized, and they close up tight. That said, I don't put both needles through at once *gasp!*. I know, I'm a blasphemer, but I pull one needle through and then the other needle through and pull them tight together. It's a little slower than putting both through at once, but it keeps the holes as small as possible and I have found no difference in effectiveness or evenness of my stitching by doing it this way and it works for me, so I'll keep doing it. Just an option

I really like that! Nice find!

Good suggestion--that makes a lot of sense! I'll have to pick up a chisel or two and give it a shot

I think most people use hole punches and connect them with chisels. I have never done this, although it sounds like a pretty good idea if all the chisels I could find weren't so THICK. As it stands I punch holes and connect them with a knife and clean them up as best I can with sandpaper. A nice slot punch would be ideal but I have to save up the money for that.

Vinegaroon is, essentially, vinegar and steel mixed together. If you use the Search box at the top of the forums and search for vinegaroon you will find all kinds of information

It looks nice--you got a very rich black and the form looks good--but I'm concerned about the exposed trigger

I actually do fold-over style holsters with just one exception so far--my steps are for making a pattern for that and I simply included the one extra step you would need for doing pancake style holsters.

Ask and you shall receive, even if it's crappy pictures taken in crappy light with a crappy camera. Visual Aid: If you click on each picture you will also see a short description of each step.

I haven't found a formula, but what I've found comes pretty close for me (assuming I haven't already made a holster for that particular gun, in which case I can make a template) is folding a piece of paper and laying the gun/blocker (with dowel taped on for sight channel) centered on the fold, then very carefully rolling it over to lay on its side on the paper. I then trace the gun, and then take however much space there is from the fold to the outline and add that same amount of space on the other side of the outline. That essentially is giving you about half the thickness of the gun along the top and half the thickness of the gun along the bottom, and that will be replicated by the fact that you will have a second piece of leather (or a folded single piece) that will have the same amount of space around the gun. That gives you two halves for the top of the gun and two halves for the bottom of the gun. Again, this is a generalization and will not always work, but it's a good starting point, if it makes any sense to you? If not I might be able to draw up a pattern just so you see how I do it.

Hello everyone, I currently have too much work to take any more orders and a gentleman has contacted me about a CZ-40 Compact holster, Charter Arms Bulldog holster, and custom knife sheath, but since we've been having issues with e-mail he hasn't been able to find out that I am not taking orders and so I feel obligated to try and find him someone who can pick up the referral. I would really appreciate it, so if anybody is interested please send me a PM. I DO NOT WANT OR EXPECT ANY COMMISSION FROM THIS REFERRAL Just wanted to put that out there Thanks! ~Noah

I use the same internal knot method as celticleather, I just learned it from a knifemaker instead of a saddler I will note that I actually backstitch doing these internal knots, and of course then you need to do something with the ends of the thread, as you've mentioned. I melt them on dark leather (which is almost all of what I do) but on natural fibers (they don't melt) or light colored leather I will super glue either with a needle or with a fine-tip applicator.

I can't help you with the acorn nuts, but the "brass caps with stalks" are spots. Tandy sells them, although they don't show the prongs in the picture: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Hardware/Spots-Spikes/1330-061.aspx?feature=Product_1

I would think slow-set 2-ton epoxy would be your best bet. It can hold a blade in a handle permanently just fine, so I would assume that it would work for applying stingray to grips

Are you talking about, essentially, having the belt loops for the holster looped between the layers of the belt? That would certainly conceal the loops, but I think it would defeat the purpose of having a stiff, double-layer belt. If you are talking about putting a third layer from 2 o'clock to 5 o'clock then it might work, but I suspect it would still be subject to sagging and would add bulk. I'm certainly no expert on the matter, though, so I could very well be wrong about all of this

This is a sheath I just made for a JK Knatchet. I just need the stupid buckle and clips I ordered to make the shoulder strap for it and it's done. This is an open-spine design with an integral belt loop/retention strap/baldric anchor setup, and there is a leather wedge reinforced by an eyelet to work together with the retention strap to keep the blade firmly in place.

I actually used an X-Acto knife before I got the round knife--the round knife is much easier. I still use X-Acto knives for delicate cutting (inside belt slots, trimming sheath mouths, cutting out integral belt loops, etc) but the main pattern pieces are cut out with the round knife now

Looks like metal side-release buckles to me: http://www.strapworks.com/Side_Release_Buckle_p/msrb-n.htm

Not sure, as I don't use them, and technically they aren't just for Sam Browne studs, but for any buttons or studs. I suspect that the oval ones are for buttons and the round ones are for studs, just be sure to get the right size

I had the same problem until I switched to a round knife, and now there is just a little taper and I sand that out anyway.