NoahL

Hello everyone, I just finished this pocket sheath for my JK Handmade Knives "Neckmuk". It is made of 7-9oz horsehide leather and hand stitched with hemp thread. I used a new dye color--Cordovan--and it seems to be really difficult to photograph, but then again, it could be that I was using my mom's camera instead of my fiancee's. In case you are wondering, yes, the sheath is "left handed", but only because I clip it inside my right front pocket or side pocket (as shown in the picture). Thanks for looking! ~Noah

Beautiful work! ~Noah

Very nice! ~Noah

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Tools/Stamps-Craftool/66294-03.aspx?feature=Product_25 ~Noah

I've heard of slider snaps, but not roller snaps. Do you have pictures of these things? ~Noah

Thanks, Doc! I did forget to put up a picture of the knife itself, so here it is: ~Noah

Hello everyone, This is a sheath I whipped up real quick for a knife that I forged with the help of Tai Goo. I had made a sheath for it right after making the knife, but I decided that it didn't meet my standards. This is made of 7-9oz horsehide leather, hand stitched with hemp thread, and dyed with Eco-Flo Dye (Dark Cocoa) only just enough to bring out the natural patterning of the leather. Thanks for looking! ~Noah

It would absorb into the liner if you aren't careful--just apply the dye very carefully. When I do it, I usually tightly pack four cotton balls into a scrap of cloth, and as long as I hold it tight, it doesn't run or go where I don't want it to go. Alternately, you can use Q-Tips ~Noah

In addition to Mr. Park's tutorial, I will mention that you don't need Edge Ink--you can use whatever dye you used for the rest of the piece. I've noticed that Leather Balm w/ Atom Wax tends to lift some dye, even if you've buffed the heck out of the leather, but it shouldn't take it off your edges like it is doing with the Edge Ink. Alternately, you could just burnish the crap out of the edges and they will get nice and dark on their own ~Noah

The magnet for the closure goes wherever works for your design. The magnet for the stand-by sensor goes in the back of the case (the side closest to you while wearing it) at the very bottom, centered, and on the inside of the case, of course. Felt or pretty much any thin veg-tan. I wouldn't think that would be too thick, but with a lining it could get a little bulky. Don't forget to make a groove so that the case doesn't contact the scroll ball (or touchpad, whichever you have), because that can cause trouble with it over time. Good luck! ~Noah

Sorry for the delayed response Jim--I never got an e-mail about your post! In any case, it was pretty tough for me to find. Siegel's carries it, and so does Zack White, but it's fairly expensive at around $6.25/lb, and it comes in ~2lb strips (they are "horse butt strips"). I now get it from a company called Milton Sokol in NY for a considerably better price--just call them at 718-441-2226 and ask for Pete Olsen, and he will hook you up Thanks for the compliments, by the way! ~Noah

I don't believe that sheath linings in leather sheaths were all that popular in that time period except for perhaps rawhide, but I'm no historian. I don't believe linings are usually necessary, but they can add to a sheath aesthetically, certainly. I would say rawhide liner with veg-tan outside--it will provide good retention but still using period (kind of, anyway) materials. Now, if somebody like Chuck from Wild Rose comes in here--anybody who does period work (because I just do modern stuff)--listen to them instead ~Noah

Well, I've never done it, but I have seen padding added to leather items before in two ways. The first way is to lay out some sort of solid padding (like neoprene) where you want it inside the strap and cement it in place, then wet mold the second half of the strap over the top and cement and stitch that into place once it is dry. The second way is to cement the strap pieces together except for a small opening, and then stuff loose padding (like torn up cotton batting) into it with a thin rod, then stitch it all up. Now, I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to do it, but I don't know what they are . Good luck! ~Noah

I got the eyelets from John on Monday, but I need a setter for them, so it'll take me a while before I can use them and post it up. Thanks for the hookup, John! ~Noah

I'm worthless at braiding, so that is perfection in progress, to me! If you don't mind my asking, where did you get the horse rawhide? ~Noah

Well, I don't do holsters (don't even own a gun), but those look nice to me! I particularly like the color you got on the reinforcement piece of that bottom holster, and that one that came out "too dark" looks pretty classy. As for burnishing the edges inside your belt slots--I wrap a scrap of canvas around a drill bit to burnish the insides of slots, of that helps any? ~Noah

You could use an ice pick, but it won't make holes the way you want. Alternately, if you have a drill press you can chuck a tiny drill bit (the size of your thread) in it and use that to make the holes, if you don't want to shell out for an awl. The 4 pronged fork makes holes that are too big for stitching with thread--they are means for lacing with leather lace, although I have seen them hit lightly with a hammer to mark where to make holes with the awl, but I prefer an overstitch wheel for that. And thanks for adding the edger, TwinOaks--I use mine all the time but still forgot to put it in the list ~Noah

You'll probably get several lists in response to this, but here are some of the basics: Stitching groover Stitch marker of some kind (overstitch wheel, or a fork works as well) Awl with a diamond shaped blade Harness needles (heavy duty sewing needles with blunted tips) Waxed linen or nylon thread Dye (can be water based or spirit based) Finish (up to you, really, but I use Leather Balm w/ Atom Wax as well as Sno-Seal) Good luck! ~Noah