NoahL

Hello everyone, I just finished another Apocalyptic Survivor holster--my third holster ever--this one for a 1911. What do you think? Thanks! ~Noah

I actually didn't use vinegaroon on that one--this was my first time dying with Fiebings Pro Oil Dye. I have to say that I've had much better luck with vinegaroon. I don't think the Pro Oil Dye likes my horsehide because it's the only dye I have that has come out blotchy.

Just a few I've done recently: ESEE Arrowheads: A sheath for a guy's first knife he made for his dad: Cold Steel Bushman: JK Mini-Lobo: Thanks for looking! ~Noah

Personally, I like the soft lines in yours. I think that the super-crisp definition--while definitely a mark of a skilled leatherworker--can sometimes make holsters look plastic *hides from the rocks about to be thrown at him*

I think it's preference, as well as the ability to remove the buckle and loop if necessary. I used Chicago screws on my dog's collar, and I did have problems with them backing out until it occurred to me that I could Loctite them

Believe it or not, I think I might actually know what you're after and have a supplier! A guy who goes by the username Talfuchre on most forums (although his real name is Jason) has his little company named Diomedes Industries, and he can supply dee-rings (although they are kind of square) with one side that unscrews so the ring is removable. His e-mail address is jmoulenbelt@hotmail.com if that's what you're after. If not, good luck in your search!

I don't carry (Yet. I finally have a handgun on layaway, though!) so I can't say anything from personal experience. That said, I'm definitely interested to see the results of this test. I was under the impression that most double-layer gun belts have a reinforcing strip of metal or plastic between the layers of leather and that was what made them sturdier than a single-layer belt of the same thickness. I could be totally wrong, though. I don't think you will see any real difference unless the cement used between the layers has a stiffening effect on the leather.

Really? My bottles of Fiebings Cordovan have all come out a rich, espresso brown that seems to be pretty popular with my customers.

You'll need to check with them, because it's both. Shell Cordovan is very expensive horsehide leather, and Cordovan is a dye color.

Of course not! I just couldn't remember for the life of me who made the original thread! Sorry about that--you are definitely the reason I made it in the first place

Well it isn't a pattern, exactly, but how about something like this one I made last year? When my dog grew out of it I made him a nicer one, but this is the only picture I have of the design laid flat: It's very simple and straight-forward, and you can size it to fit as big a dog as your leather allows. That harness was made for my dog, who is roughly the size of a Basset Hound, but you can make it bigger. Basically just cut a long strap (I cut it 1.5" wide), then fold it over a large dee-ring leaving enough room in the loop for a 3/4" strap to pass through (assuming you started with a 1.5" wide strap) and secure it however you prefer (rivets/stitching/screws/etc.), then cut a slit for the head to go through (I found that the length of the slit should be about 20% less than the neck circumference of the dog you are making it for) and punch holes at the end of each slit to keep the leather from splitting, then slit the leather from the end that doesn't have the dee-ring on it to make two 3/4" straps that will wrap around the dog's chest. The chest straps are going to take some experimentation on your part because every dog is built differently, so start the slit from the end and put the head slit over the dog's head and wrap the straps around his chest (one should go through the loop holding the dee-ring) and continue cutting the slit and test fitting until the straps come up directly behind the dog's front legs without chafing them, then punch a hole at the end of the slit to keep it from splitting. Once you've done that, put a buckle on one of the straps and make your holes to fit, and it will wear something like this: I had the same problem with my dog backing out of harnesses, but he hasn't managed it with this one, so long as the slits are the right sizes.

Have you tried Siegle of California? I haven't tried them myself but what I've seen from them from other makers is excellent

Part of it is exactly what you said, and the other part is that it was the design requested for my first holster, and I just modified that pattern a bit. Also, I don't really like pancake holsters They will fit up to a 2" belt. On my first holster I sized them to fit the belt that it would be worn on, but since I just made this for practice and for anybody who wants it, I decided I would go up to 2" so it can fit on a duty belt if necessary. For any holsters that are ordered I will be making the slots to fit for the exact reason you mentioned. As for the wrinkles--yeah, those are stuck there, I tried to get them out already

Thanks! I wish I could take a better picture of it but there isn't a really good way to do it

Hello everyone, My dog, Max, outgrew his old harness so I decided to make him a new one, and make it a bit nicer. It's made of 7-9oz horsehide leather, dyed with Cordovan dye and the dee-ring flap/chest strap tunnel is secured by black artificial sinew and a cemented Chicago screw. Thanks for looking! ~Noah

Hello everyone, I built this OWB Browning Hi Power holster for practice this week to test out some of the modifications I made to my pattern, and I found a few things to tweak. I also found out that I can't freehand the stitch groove around the gun and need to go back to using my template like I did on my first holster. This one is also made of 7-9oz horsehide, hand stitched with black artificial sinew, and dyed with Cordovan dye. What do you guys think? Thanks for looking! ~Noah

They look kind of like jeans rivets to me

Interesting texture. The photo is a little large, but from what I can make of the overall package it looks pretty nicely done to me

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but is there any particular reason you don't do revolver holsters anymore? Those are beautiful!

Hello everyone, After making my first holster, I modified my template slightly so that I had the belt slots at better angles on the wings, made the holster go a bit higher on the slide, and made enough room for 2" belt slots. Now that I've done those things, I made a cardboard template for the holster body, the welt, and the reinforcing panel/front belt slot wing. And now I'm sharing it, so hopefully somebody can find a use for it Browning Hi Power Holster Template

I didn't dye the inside of the holster I made, but I did give it a coat of Sno-Seal. I would imagine Resolene will be a popular answer to this question, though.

Let me know if you find it--I never have. From what I can tell, it's only available in Europe.

Interesting information! I can't stand to have anything inside my waistband, so I never would have thought of that.

Thanks! Yeah, I wanted to find a different place for it, but the back is molded too much for the stamp to be readable, and there is not any room on the belt slot wing because I misjudged how big it needed to be.

Thanks for the advice! I will definitely try the alcohol trick next time! I have done dish soap before but didn't notice any real difference. I'm glad you like the design--as far as reinforcing the belt slot, I thought about that after I finished the holster but I couldn't think of any effective, good-looking way to do it at that point. I will be sure that the guy who asked me to make it knows to oil that flap in particular, although I have not had the drying out/cracking problem with any of the horsehide items I made for myself. Thanks!