Thadrick

Just leave the leather unlaminated?

Thanks guys, Ill try what you suggest and see what works. If no luck maybe Ill have to switch to apholstery? Especially if they keep fading out after only a years time.

That's interesting, After leaving it glued under weight for several hours the table top had an oil slick , I thought it was glue residual but your comment about oil sounds correct. How would I wash 3 sides of leather and how will it effect the color and longevity of the leather? At the present time, it matches the color of my bike seat and graphics perfectly. The last batch of red leather (different brand) I used for bike bags faded to brown in only one summer (it was always protected under a 4duck canvas tarp I built for it except when riding). Will this leather fade to brown or worse yet pink if I wash the oil out?

I ordered some of this https://tandyleather.com/products/designer-smooth-side?variant=45452955418755 in candy apple red to make bags for my dirt bike. Why won't glue stick to it? It's fairly thin so I'm doubling the leather rough side glued to rough side but the glue doesn't hold. I'm using weldwood glue and has been working well on other leathers. Why not working on this?

Thank you sir, it really turned out nice.

Would you mind if I gave that a try sometime this winter? It would be for my personal use and experience, I don't sell anything I make.

That's exactly how I do it. Leaving the welt sticking out a tad so when it's all sewn up, just sand off the extra for a nice edge.

Once again,outstanding work! You must use an air gun for dying?

Next they'll be outlawing chain saws. Lol

OK? So are you guys popping the lid on wildwood glue each time you use it or are you transferring the glue to a different container and using a different type of applicator? I've been using barge quart cans with the applicator and a pair of channel lock pliers to get it open every time I need it. Is their a different more convenient method?

Thanks, I guess I'll have to give it a try.

Has anyone thought about using formica construction glue for leather projects? https://www.amazon.com/00271-Weldwood-Original-Contact-Cement/dp/B0006MXRY8/ref=pd_sim_d_sccl_3_1/147-4836112-0706438?pd_rd_w=2UpNv&content-id=amzn1.sym.3a852a98-d65f-4301-9bd0-9b589b14d1ef&pf_rd_p=3a852a98-d65f-4301-9bd0-9b589b14d1ef&pf_rd_r=WJZQ74S5S0KPDW4F7P4X&pd_rd_wg=EB4bj&pd_rd_r=362984e1-6bb4-4088-b07b-c23adb755617&pd_rd_i=B0006MXRY8&th=1 It sure is a lot less expensive than what Ive been buying now that infation is effecting my leather glue prices.

I like it! I especially like the finish.

Thats pretty cool

Thank you. Should be able to improve the looks with a little more time than an hour also? Winters coming so maybe lots of time to expand on the idea.

Me neither, I have however had luck carrying them open on a sling (two side by side lengthwise). Its also something that might be able to incorporate into a scabbard. Putting them on a butt stock causes a lot of snagging.

Not exactly the same but kinda the same idea. I have a couple other projects going on and then Ill see if I can figure out something like this for my 7 SAUM.

So I was waiting for leather to dry a little and thought I would fiddle with this. The removed material at the bottom needs to be the diameter of the cartridge (in this case .429" -44 mag) The oval punch should be close to that plus the thickness of the leather doubled (.429 + leather doubled) The stitching down the case wall needs to be measured with a couple strait edges holding the leather and bullet down to a flat surface. In my attempt, my punched hole is a little too long. The stitching holes I just eyeballed the radious going under the bullet. Knowing these measurements I think I could build a pattern. Then the stitching on the back piece I think would be like a normal piece except the radioused part under the bullet might need to be punched during assembly? On a bottle neck case, Ill probably have to work that out but I think the oval hole might need to be higher?

As I was fiddling with paper trying to work out a pattern, I think it will require an oval punch? I'm in the middle of another project right now or I would get right after doing one of these, starting with strait wall cartridge first and then working my way to a bottle neck . My theory would be that the punched hole would be where the bullet and neck could poke through for bottle neck cartridges ? Museums are awesome for ideas. Those Ole timers were brilliant.

Definitely wet formed to an extent but the bottom part of the loops are nicely designed and sewn down to the end of the cartridge. Sometimes that kinda stuff floors me with our ancestors designs. They were brilliant.

Yeah, I just tried paper and it won't form properly. It kinda looks like piano keys when laid flat though. Obviously wet formed to an extent?

Ive seen many ammo holders on here in the past but this one stumps me. I found this in a museum and couldnt help think that this design would work perfectly for bottle neck rimless ammo. My question is how the heck did they cut the outher loops like that to get things to fit ammo and yet look so clean? How can a person reproduce this to fit bottle neck ammo? Just use a bunch of leather and try till its right? Where are the measurements taken from? Anyhow? anyone know of any writeups on this design?

So was I right?

My boss likes to break needles off at the top. Took me a while to figure out the problem until I realized that the top of the broken needle was stuck inside of the needle holder not allowing the new needles to set correctly (too long). Check to be you don't have a broken needle inside the carrier.