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Here is a little something I was working on recently... a sheath for my survival knife
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Hi everyone! i ve been working wth leather and been a member of this forum for a while now but i never really shared any of my projects until now. i have recently designed a mini fat bowie for myself named "The Monster Cleaver" and got it done through ABS J.S. Doug Campbell. After getting the knife done i have decided to make a unique and one of a kind sheath and way to carry it, so i ve started my designing process and came with what i thought was a unique design. Anyways i wanted to share the finish product with you and get your opinions and any questions you might have about the sheath or the knife. Thanks for checking out my work and topic, i hope you like what your see, thanks again and enjoy. -
We manufacture unusually stamps and indivudualomu hinged blades for special order. You can choose any stamps and knifes we will make them during 3-4 days
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We manufacture unusually stamps and indivudualomu hinged blades for special order. You can choose any stamps and knifes we will make them during 3-4 days
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We manufacture unusually stamps and indivudualomu hinged blades for special order. You can choose any stamps and knifes we will make them during 3-4 days
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From the album: My Creations
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I have been having some trouble cutting round corners and circles out of leather. Right know I have a utility knife, which works good for cutting straight lines for the most part, and an x acto style knife, which I have been using for cutting corners. The x acto is too flimsy and tends to bend when I am cutting corners, making the cut at an angle, most of the time. I would like a knife that is that same style, but with a sturdier blade that wont bend. Anyone have any suggestions? I almost bought this knife, but decided I better ask for some advice before doing so: http://usaknifemaker.com/industrial-knife-set-especially-designed-for-leather.html#.U785SajPmO0 Thanks, Zayne
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Hello everyone! I hope this is OK to use as a thread of the many things I'll create I'll use this first post as an index of what I've made! I hope you enjoy and I always appreciate feedback and tips! My kraken book -
This thread is sort of my knifemaking/sharpening blog. I make the occasional knife, most of them tactical ones for friends kids and grandkids who are just graduating from basic or advanced training. I mostly sharpen scissors (from standard to technical stylist scissors/shears, to a pair of Fiskars), knives, hand and power tools, leatherworking tools, most garden tools (please don't bring a 1,000 lb garden tractor over here with the mower blades attached), Dog and human hair clippers and blades (sharpening and repair), I'll tackle most anything if you are in a bind, but I will send out saw blades and end mills as there are others who can do them better. That being said, I am retired. I don't have to do anything If I don't want to, I do it just to do something that I know how to do. We all like to feel useful, but I ain't going to work myself to death. This is kind of the see something, say something of a knife shop. Everyone is welcome to add to or ask questions. Art
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I have received several requests to do a writeup on my experiences and thoughts about the WS 3000 grinder. Please read-up and watch on youtube for information on this unit and if you need some real use info, I can provide it here. This is a $200 item in stock format, which is pretty useable for what it does. You can use sandpaper for different grits on the glass wheels (two provided, each side useable). You can use the peel and stick disks or just use good (read 3M here, I'm a 3M bigot, the stuff has never let me down) wet and dry paper and use the Type II Feathering adhesive to stick it down, then trim with a utility knife or whatever. Glass wheels are $20 if you think you need more. It has lots of other options and accessories that you can buy into if you get bored, but the best one is the knife sharpening attachment. Youtube it, if you are very careful with it and practice, it will put a very good edge on a knife. You can use multiple belts ad nauseum going carefully up through the grits, but the 120 belt us very aggressive on this little machine. The belts are a little pricey considering they are 1" X 18". Micro-Mesh belts from Micro Surface are an excellent choice other than Work Shop. DMT makes a replacement diamond disk system for the Work Sharp that I use. I don't recommend this to everyone as the cost is high and is not necessary unless the job dictates. My only use for this machine is for small parts that need grinding or dressing. From looking at it, you would think this thing would be handy for a whole bunch of stuff. It has a 1/5 HP motor that is geared down by a factor of 6 or 7, and the glass lap wheels (that you stick the paper to) are pretty flat, not optical but very good nonetheless. However, that small wheel is really small for doing knives of most varieties; and small means ackward, a lot more so than bigger laps or grinders. This is compounded by the knob that holds the wheel on sticking up in the middle of the whole thing. While you only use one side of any flat wheel, taking away the center section makes positioning somewhat impossible with a longer blade, or bigger blade as in a 5" head knife. The glass wheels mount on the machine and sink down to just above a collar that runs around the wheel. I am SURE this is a safety feature, but the damned thing gets in the way if you have a longer tool with a handle. It also takes an inordinate amount of time to get a wheel off the machine. The collar mentioned before blocks getting a hold on the edge of the wheel and lifting it off, no problem if the collar wasn't there. I been thinking of taking a coping saw and cutting about 2/3 of that collar off. We'll see, one day it will tick me off to the point of surgery. I'm going to tell you NOT to get the leather covered wheel for stropping. You always need to strop away from the knife edge to keep from shaving your strop, which happens in a remarkably short time under power. There is just no comfortable or even practical way to do that on a small diameter wheel with a big knob sticking-up in the center. Just use a strop on a piece of wood that you can control. For what I do, a precision lap is overkill, and changing grits is a pure PITA, but this little grinder seems to fit the bill quite well for me. Short edged tools is what this machine is made to do. Art
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Hello all, I am new to this community, I was given my grandfather's tools for working leather a few years ago. I played and practiced with all the tools. I was asked if I could make a pair of knife sheaths for my mechanic and his father in-law. I said sure. He had no patterns in mind so I went with what he hunted. Deer and Duck. His father in-law did not hunt duck so I stuck with a buck. The buck did not come out the way I wanted it to.. all but the Letters and leaves are traced and free hand done. -
We get a lot of interest on leatherworker.net about the subjects of knifemaking and sharpening. This applies to pretty much all leather edged tools. This forum is here to collect all of this information for use by those who want to know sharp from dull, and from screaming (or bleeding) sharp to just adequate. I will be your forum sponsor and moderator, as such, I am pretty freewheeling, and will participate as much as needed and also as much as possible. We have a lot of well known knifemakers and sheathmakers who lurk in the other forums and who I hope will find a home here. I got into leatherworking because I needed sheaths for my knives; and nobody ever made one for me that I liked. I also got into sharpening when a few of my friends in the food service industry asked me to teach them how to sharpen; it went crazy from there. I was doing that after work and on weekends to the point where I couldn't take on any more work. So come on aboard and ask questions or whatever, help when you can, everyone needs to learn. Art
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So right now I'm having trouble deciding between the wrangler rhino and the texas rose Knipschield knife. I don't have experience with round knives and would like to hear from you all which knife you would prefer. I have heard a lot of support for both and it seems to come down to personal preferences. One major question I have is if the draw blade on the rhino worth it? Also if I should be looking at the other selections of styles then what I chose, or if there are other crafters I missed. My second favorite hobby is collecting knives, and would love to own a new quality knife that also doubles as an important tool in my leathercraft. Thank you for any advice! Here are the links to their knives. http://www.shop.leatherwranglers.com/category.sc?categoryId=7 http://www.knipknives.com/leather.php
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.. http://www.hora-sedlarstvi.cz
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Knife http://www.hora-sedlarstvi.cz
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I really like friction/tension hold sheaths and I am working on one right now (a horizontal draw) when a question popped in my head: can I dye the leather first (I like oil dyes) while the pieces are apart, then wet form the sheath around the knife after that? For the knife sheath I'm working on now I wet formed it first then dyed it but I was just curious if I could go the other way around. A second question issue came up with this project, it is a small knife with a finger guard. I have the sheath going up like a quarter of the handle and as I was wet forming the sheath the leather dried and the opening shrank a little. I could pull it out just fine but when I would go to put it back in I was mashing the leather. I cut a hole along the top a little to make it so I could put the knife back in without mashing the leather. The question is: when I am wet forming a sheath how do I accommodate the finger guard but still maintain the tension/friction necessary to hold in the blade? Third question: how large do I need to make the welt? The welt I have on this one is about 1/4 inch but the blade moves around a lot in the sheath. Do I need to cut the welt in the shape of the blade? Thank you!
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Here is a picture of the leather I am going to use to try my hand at wet forming a knife sheath. The question I have though is about the welt. I tried to show the welt I have already cut but then I'm not sure about the length. Will this welt be sufficient or do I need to take the welt all the way up to the top of the sheath. My understanding of a welt is to protect the stitches from the blade, so will this length be sufficient? Thanks!
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II have been playing with making swivel knives from brass on my new lathe... I made all the stuff in the photos except the shanks with the finger piece...waiting for some bearings from china that are $10 for 10 bearings 4mm also making stylus's for tracing onto the leather but mine are longer and more of a pleasure to hold. regards Terry O'Brien the LEATHERBARON www.leatherbaron.com (facebook link ) photos show thee brass swivel knives and some that were flat chromed as a test
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I'm pretty new to leather-working. So far I've made a holster for a mini-maglight, a couple of wrist bands for my daughters, and one other sheath. This is my latest attempt; a sheath for my BK-2. I thought it came out pretty well. Working on making a new camp knife now. If it comes out okay I plan to do a video of both the making of the knife and the making of a new sheath for it on my blog, selfsufficientpath.com. Hope you like it:
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A friend I've made knife sheaths for over the last couple of years just dropped off an axe. I've never done one of these before. I'm looking on line. I'm using 9-10 ounce vegtan, and I know that for this, I'm going to need a strap and snap. I can do those but I make knife sheaths that don't need them, cuz they're such a pain when you need to get your knife off or back on your belt. If you know something that might help me make a better axe cover, please tell. I really like the guy who brought it and I want him to have the best possible.
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Eine meiner gemachten Messer Scheiden
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So well, I guess there is no need for two threads, so I´ll reduce it to one I had a work mate some time ago I came along with really nice and who teached me a lot for my daily job. So as we are both craftsmen and therefore like well (hand)made stuff I decided to make him a belt which turned out to be the best I made yet. For those of you who mention the different colour of the edge all along and the edge where the keeper sits (might be hard to see on the pictures... didn´t do a nice job on the pciture stuff this time): I started with the buckle using edge kote. But after that I visited my father who owns one of my belts and recognized, that the edge of hos belt - which I finished with some edge kote, too - was just fuzzy all along.... so I cried a little for help here, got some fingers pointed again on the thread "how to finish edges" and did it (nearly) as descriebed there... finally I got a nice (even nicer!) edge the with edge kote which hopefully should hold up much longer, as the only substance sitting on top is a really thin coat of Tan Kote finished with some parraffin. Thanks for that already guys! Acutally I never saw him since I gave it to him, but he was full of joy, so I assume the hours put into this piece were worth it. The belt itself is some 3,5mm belt croupon lined with some 0,8mm ... neck (I guess... ordered that seperately), hand dyed as always and handstitched with 8 SPI all around. The bucke is made of solid brass and the width is just about 38mm. As this is the second lined belt I made, I tried out some things like skiving the loop where the buckle sits down to the lining plus tapering the tip of the belt for a better sliding into the belt keeper. work worked just fine. The second piece is a sheath for a... "fancy" knife of a customer. He just wanted a simple sheath but made a lot more sturdier than his last one where the knife is hold by friction at least a little as is came out sometime before... The sheath is dyed with a light brown. After that I applied one coat of oil, let it dry and applied some heavy coat of my leatherbalm. The plan was to fit the handle colour of the knife which turned out quite good. I guess those are the moments where it´s good to know how the individual hide darkens when you use your "stuff (the balm) on it!! So always do a sample guys.... really! I guess If I didn´t know and wanted to be it light brown I´d have stuck in this head->table->head->table motion.... XD So here you see the difference between the old one the ne sheath As the blade got a little curve near the tip, it even cut a little hole into the old sheat... that was made poor and a little tight, so everytime the customer pushed the knif back into the sheath he unwillingly forced the tip into the leather.... poor little thing ^^ -
Knife
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Just finished the sheath for my Armageddon Skinner and I thought that I would show it off. The handle is made of Macassar Ebony and the blade is made from 440c steel. Hardened to Rc57-58. Here are some photos hope you like them Vern -
So this is my first sheath this year, ment as a present for a good friend of mine. He got this old boatsmen knife (he teaches shooting for the german armed forces) and wanted me to make him a new sheath as the old one was starting to fall apart. This is what I came up with: And here you can see the old sheath (on the right) compared to the new one (on the left): The sheath is "butt-sewed" around a plastic inlay, I took from the old one. The knife fits in snugly and won´t come out without pulling it. Hope you like it
