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Showing results for tags '441'.
Found 21 results
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Got my narrow foot set and feed dog set from @Patrick1 at HEP My ferdco didn’t come with a feed dog or plate. And also the narrow foot I have wasn’t open for visibility in the front of the toe. Patrick’s sets are beautifully made. Haven’t sewn more than a bunch of scrap yet as I just installed them but I really like having the feed dog for more positive feeding. I got the #25 set since I often sew heavier goods but I may get a narrow feed dog set soon. Over all a big improvement from the stock ferdco and I like it better than the cobra foot set I tried. The feed dog brings the most improvement in my opinion and since it’s beveled and polished doesn’t seem to mark much at all. Wouldn’t hesitate to get a set of you have a ferdco or any juki 441 clone without a feed dog. -
Just saw this on eBay. Cheapest I have ever seen one here in uk. Need to be quick though. Less than a day to go and low buy it now price. Good luck. I’d buy myself, but I’ve already got one https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263927001186
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I have been tweaking and practicing on my new Ferdco Pro 2000 for the last several days without so much as a missed stitch. Last night I thought I would try 4 layers of 11/12 oz veg tanned (5/8" thick stack), to see how the machine would handle that. Good Idea, bad execution, as I used some older leather that was given to me and although not cracking by any means, it might have been a little too dry, and tough for this test. At about 2 inches into the test piece, there was a loud thunk and the needle snapped in half. So I removed the material, checked to make sure the shuttle area and race was clear of debris and installed a new needle. Upon bringing the needle down by hand, I noticed that shuttle did not appear to be in the correct position. Uh oh, timing issue. I just happened to have watched Uwe's video on shuttle hook timing earlier in the day and even printed out his gauge templates on card stock to bring home from work. However upon further examination of the machine (after watching Uwe's video again), I believe that it is not a shuttle hook timing issue, but rather a shuttle driver timing issue. Diagnosis/Observation: When the needle bar is brought down to its lowest position, 25.9 mm above the needle plate, I believe that the shuttle driver should be in the farthest counter clockwise position with the tip of the shuttle hook sticking out about 1 mm. Then as the needle bar starts to rise, the shuttle should start to turn clockwise so the shuttle hook can catch the loop being formed in the top thread, as the needle rises. On my machine, with the needle bar down in its furthest position (26.5 mm), the shuttle appears to be a full 180 degrees off. When the needle starts to rise, the shuttle starts to turn counter clockwise, instead of clockwise. That is why I am thinking that this is a shuttle driver timing issue. I did an internet search for this problem last night, but found no solution. I am hoping that @CowboyBob, @Cobra Steve, @Wizcrafts, @SolarLeatherMachines, @Gregg From Keystone Sewing, @Uwe, or any of you other 441 experts can point me to a solution for this issue.
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When you look at these and many others compatible makes, side by side they all look the same, so what makes the difference between a lighter thread limit and a very heavy thread limit and can you modify say a 3200 to a 4500 with a few parts on the pressure foot to increase the thickness that can be used, or are they totally different inside I do realise that some clones may be better made than others, but that is not what i am enquiring about, Just really how the difference is applied to the same basic design
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For some reason, my Cowboy 4500 started missing a stitch, after clunking, in the middle of a long line of stitching. At first, I thought it was a needle issue, changed needle, no help. Then, I thought it was an issue with the roller guide forcing the needle over into another part...nope. Finally, I sought help online. There are a couple of sites that have videos by supposedly knowledgeable people...that may be, but a totally out of focus image, after they acknowledge that the image is totally out of focus, and abysmal lighting, after they acknowledge abysmal lighting, and I was through. Then I remembered Uwe has videos on youtube. Seriously, great lighting, ALWAYS IN PERFECT FOCUS, and a running commentary via text on screen. Yeah, buddy! I managed to totally re-time my machine and am back to perfect stitching. Uwe does it right. Check it out if you need help with your machine. He restored my sanity today, and that is no small task, on the best of days! Jeff
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Hi, all who needs the Juki TSC 441 manual and the spare part list can download them here (from my cloud drive) http://shares.1hund.....1hund.com/441/ The file on 210 KB is the manual, and yes the other is the part list. (link is valid for 60 days) This is an public manual I found online somewhere (I forgot where) Tor
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I have a Typical 441, which is much like the other clones available. Since I’ve had it the inner and outer presser feet have never quite been in sync so I made some adjustments as detailed in the attached pdf. Page 8, which worked a treat, but then something elsewhere seems to have been thrown out of time as the inner foot has now got a limp and is hardly lifting at all. i decided to go through Uwe’s video tutorial for timing everything, all of which went well and I have fine tuned hook, needle height etc. Thanks Uwe for your downloadable balance wheel degree rotation diagram, works brilliantly. I’m quite happy working with machinery, but can’t figure this one out. I’d be grateful for any advice. thanks Nick TSC-441 Adjustments.pdf
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For sale: NIB Keestar 16.5" complete leather sewing machine - premium package. (Identical to Cowboy, and made in same factory) 2500.00 plus shipping. These are brand new extremely heavy duty commercial leather sewing machines with 16.5" throats and 1 1/16 presser foot height. They will sew up to 1" of leather with ease. They are absolutely identical in every detail to the Cowboy CB4500 because they are made by the same company. Cowboy buys from Keestar and simply has them put the Cowboy name on their machines. If you want detailed info, simply look at the specs of the Cowboy CB4500. This is the same exact machine. You will get exactly what is in the pictures but the machine will be brand new in the box. Some assembly is required. These machines were upgraded with the best electronic servo motors and ball bearing speed reducers available. They will sew 1" of leather at unbelievable slow speeds. All fully adjustable with the electronic controller. The servo motor on this machine is of better quality than what Cowboy puts on their machine. We also include many accessories. Deluxe stand with 1 1/2" thick solid wood top. Material edge guide for sewing straight pieces like belts. Needle plate for holster. Needle plate flat (on machine) Standard presser foot. (on machine) Feed dog - flat. Feed dog- grooved with teeth. (on machine) Center presser foot - Narrow. Presser foot - Left side. Presser foot - Right side Speed reducer with ball bearings. Tool package to service machine. Wax/lube pot on top of machine. (Cowboy does not include this.) 4 bobbins. Bobbin winder built into machine. Magnetic LED work light. oil bottle. (empty) 2 pedal system. 1 for operating the machine, 1 for lifting the presser foot. We have 3 complete machines available, and they won't last long at this price. Jim 612-730-6880 Text me for pictures. See pics of the presser foot assortment we include with the machine. All are Stainless steel. This entire package is over 3100.00 from Cowboy and does not include the shipping. Pick up on Hudson Wi. or I can also ship these if need be for a small fee. Note: The pics show casters. These machines come with adjustable feet, and I upgraded to casters as I needed it to be portable. If you want casters, you will need to buy them with a 12MM thread. -
We moved from a much larger house, going from a 40’ x 24’ sewing and craft space to a spare bedroom ... 12.5’ x 11’. Saving inches is critical and moving my leather stitcher (Artisan Toro 4000) is part of that. I’ve been looking for a good, small table for a while now, finally finding it in a Merrow Machine Helmsman table. My wife already has a Merrow machine on one of these tables, so I was able to measure for feasibility first. It looked good, so I ordered another.The result? Very stable! I moved the head as inboard on the table as I could while still keeping a good amount of free space under the cylinder arm. The larger casters on the Helmsman actually roll better than the larger table (the room is carpeted). Although it might not seem to be the case, the pedal is completely comfortable to use. I haven’t figured out a solution for a convenient foot lift yet (knee lift perhaps), so am using the hand lever for now. Please see the before and after pictures. Also, the old table (in perfect condition) is for sale. I’ll post that separately in the classifieds.
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Hey you all with my cobra4 craigslist find I picked up earlier this year, I didn't have to tune much at all with it and kept with the 277 thread size though replaced with poly. I did find replacing the old spool of thread did everything I had issue with in the stitch tension issue, off n on every 3". I'm positive it had a catch in the spool somehow so not being any particular type thread thing. So anyway getting a few more chances to put some leather under it, I have found with some earlier adjustment. Here goes, that even though I have top tension backed off and flush with thread end, seriously. Lower tension knob a thread from being flush, the machine with some tuning sews good with what I been messin with 5oz to 5layers of 8oz with just messin around stuff. My gripe is, in a sense if I have any The shuttle tensioner, screw is tight and I actually have no adjustment (knock on wood) as mentioned before it runs a pretty good stitch. I have kindly started to remove it, tweak it with no results. I guess I have not bent it enough in any way and am still at max with the screw tightened on re-assembly thinking I may have some change, nope. So with the need for some fine adjustment with whats been mentioned. I am now getting around to order another, as this part may get all jacked up before I'm done bending it. And this may be a time to just bend another instead. I thought this is a great time to just ask your opinions and for sure feel free. Thanks Floyd
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Hi gang, Nickosew is close and has a 16.5" cylinder 441 clone (what I want) for about $2,500. Who has direct experience with a recent, new Nickosew 441 type machine? Please tell me your story. Thanks.
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I'm trying to get my 441 clone to have an accurate stitch length and sew in the same holes backwards and forwards. It only does this for some lengths. I understand how to make the adjustment, but I'm curious as to what the correct position for the stitch length lever is at the zero point. Should the middle of the lever align with the mark, or should the top of the lever? The lever is pretty chunky and imprecise but I'd like to be able to accurately set a specific stitch length so I can pattern things so the stitches end up exactly at the corners. This also applies to the max stitch length end, what part of the bar should align with the 11mm mark? Is this correct Or this: Thanks. -
Hi All, I've been trying to get hold of a UK supplier for a 441 Clone sewing machine, I have contacted Cobra and Cowboy who both kindly sent me their contacts for dealers in France and Germany respectively. I would still have to pay for shipping to the UK, does does anyone know of a dealer or contact within UK, preferably south England. Many thanks! Ross
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I stock the full range of 441 accessories in my Goulburn store. Call me on 0415 353 748 or email at darren@ablesewing.com.au Some of the range is listed on ebay but I can do better prices direct; http://stores.ebay.com.au/Able-Sewing/GA441-Parts-/_i.html?_fsub=6840659015&_sid=47422815&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
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I've searched the forum and can't find an answer to this. My 441 isn't sewing as well as I want so I'm going back to basics and trying to tune it up from scratch. What I need to know is what order to approach the adjustments in. There are multiple adjustments in the engineer's manual that say they affect the stitch length relative to the markings on the machine or that they make the forward and reverse stitches different lengths. The problem I'm running into is that I seem to get into an endless cycle of setting one according to the manual, then adjusting something else and making it wrong again. Is there a specific order that adjustments should be done in to stop this happening? Thanks.
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Fore Sale Juki 441, extra heavy duty sewing machine for sale. bought it couple of month ago for hobby. I am unable to use the machine now as I am occupied with work and studies and soon will be moving from the place and hence for sale. Comes with 1. servo motor, 2. speed reduction pulley setup. 3. and additional saddle foot attachments and needles worth 300£ I don't have to boost about the machine, as everybody on this forum knows about this beast. as mentioned, I am moving so I am quit open to reasonable offers please contact via massage. thank you
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Hello Everybody, I recently bought Juki 441, which is in quite great condition, its works very well and in perfect shape. I noticed, while using Biggest needle (NM 280, 28 Size needle), the needle start hitting with shuttle, it doesn't happens with small size. #Does anybody know, what is wrong with the machine? I also noticed, when needle starts penetrating the work piece, the needle move towards right side ( within the allowable space in the center presser feet. Is it common with machine, which uses long needle? Any suggestion to comment would be greatly appreciated FYI, I used 19, 25 & 28 size needle so far. -
I have a SewPro Mini 441 machine that I'm still trying to get up to speed on. I do a variety of work - passport covers, wallets, belts and straps, journal covers, medium and heavy bags. I'm also looking into getting a Pfaff 345 and and/or a flatbed walking foot machine or a Single 30-15 machine. The second or third machine would be for wallets, totes, various cases and linings/interiors. You can see my work here http://www.instagram.com/odinleather. I definitely welcome your feedback on choice of machines for these purposes. Would a that Pfaff 345 with some sort of flat top attachement work for wallets and totes or should I stick with a true flatbed like a 30-15. I like using 138 and 207 thread weights. Regarding pressor feet and plates... I don't quite understand yet the pros and cons that the different pressor feet and plate combinations for the 441 machine offer. My 441 machine came with a center-toe pressor foot that is closed (the thread passes through it). It seems some center-toes are open - is this a benefit? Outer pressor foot has a double toe (left and right side). Whats the benefit of changing these pressor feet? Does using a left or right toe offer benefits that I don't understand? Also... How does one choose the right plate for a project? What unique benefits does a holster plate, or stirrup plate offer that a regular plate does not. As always ALL your feedback is welcome and appreciated. -
I just picked up my very first sewing machine. I've been hand stitching everything (satchels, bags, wallets, belts, cases, etc.) for the last 2 years and decided it was time to step up. I bought from a local dealer - Bogle-Greenwell. I was able to do some test runs with it on some belt scraps. Its stitching well, but I have noticed a couple of things... 1) The feed dogs (on bottom) are leaving teeth marks on the rear of my material 2) The presser feet (on top) are also leaving marks (smoother than whats's happening on the bottom, but marks none the less) 3) The stitching on the bottom side is clean - there are no loops, but it doesn't look nearly as nice as the top. I apologize if the vocabulary is a little off - I'm not yet up to speed on all the sewing maching terminology yet... But I'll get there. If any of your pros could point me in a good direction to fixing these issues I would greatly appreciate it. Also, if you can refer me to any good reference materials - books, videos, etc. - on how to use this machine that would help too. Honestly, while I figured out how to thread the needle, I don't even understand how to wind the bobbin or replace it yet. So... Your help is definitely needed. Thanks.
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Hi Guys, Long time lurker, first time poster here. Learned quite a bit from the members here, thanks very much for that. Right the question, I've been eyeing Juki 1508NH and the famed TSC441, but budget constraint means those two are way out of my reach. Finding good heavy duty machine here (Indonesia) is really hard as most sellers would just say ...ah relax..this one is good enough for your needs. - I told a seller I need to sew 3-4 layers of 6oz veg tan and was told that the Juki 1811 can handle it and that it won't mark veg tan for example which i know is not accurate. After some searching I have shortlisted the Juki replacement with these two Typical machines : TW1-243 flatbed http://www.chinatypi..._011.asp?id=239 TW3-441 cylinder bed (which I naively just assume that this is typical's version of Juki 441 http://www.typical-e...chines/tw3-441/ the head cost about $1200-1250 each for those two types. 01. Given the specs or maybe some of you have used these machines, would they serve the purpose of sewing : - 3-4 layers of 6oz and 2 layers of 8oz - 13 thread thickness ( i think its equivalent to hmm 207-210?) will be using bonded nylon. - #22/23 needles. - mainly for making leather bags with no lining, using thick leather. Btw, yes the chinatypical website is a bit weird that you can't click on anything, if you'd like to see their other models, here's the link : http://www.chinatypi...Sewing Machines or their european site which seems to be working better : http://www.typical-e...-duty-machines/ 02. Another question would be about the motors,the machines are from a distributor and they don't have the table set up and the motors, so I'll be getting those from another shop, maybe you guys can recommend the type of motors suitable for these machines, specs wise, not a specific brand like SewPro 500 GR, because I don't think I'll be able to get them here. Many thanks in advance! Cheers
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I have a 7441 from Neels Saddlery. It's turned out to be too much of a heavyweight for the direction my work has taken me. I haven't used it much at all, kept it oiled. Looking to replace it with the 867Adler. Ryan Neel was always very helpful. Not sure what it's worth right now, but it is pretty much a new machine. -Wes Carnes
