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Hey Folks, Just wanted to show off my leather conditioner I have been selling on my website. Made with all natural ingredients. Small 1 oz tins available in bulk to send away with your leather goods. https://www.campleathergoods.com/shop-leather-goods/p/leather-butter

Alta Andina crafts handmade mutli-use rolls. They are for sale on our website: https://altaandina.com/products/ Our tool roll can be used for almost anything. Fits a 12 inch wrench. Each slot can be sized as big or small as needed. Great for woodworking sets, chisel sets, bonsai sets etc. Also works great for paint brushes or art supplies. Our art rolls can also be used for pens and pencils, brushes, etc. We haven't played with putting tools in our art rolls yet, but we'd love to see how you use them! We do all our work by hand. Hand stitching, hand hammered copper rivets, hand burnished with beeswax. All full grain, vegetable tanned leather (quebracho, mimosa blend).

Hi All - New to the forums and wanted some feedback on my companies' leather craft. All our products are handmade. Hand stitched, hand burnished, we hammer in our copper rivets by hand. We use only full grain, vegetable tanned leather (quebracho, mimosa blend). We'd love some feedback, especially on our rolls - see attached photos. They are really functional, but we're looking for suggestions, features to add, or general improvements to the design. Any suggestions for how you'd use them? Features you would like to see ideally? Each slot of the center strap tool roll with the wrenches adjusts so you can put various items inside. The art / pen and pencil rolls have the side pocket for extra storage which closes on its own when rolled. More photos on our website: https://altaandina.com/products/

Anybody use beeswax as a blocking agent, instead of acrylic, for antiquing? I did a small sample on a small piece of leather and it worked. I’m pretty scared to do it on a big piece though.

Hello folks , here again with another one of my newbie situations: I love my thread , as we all do and well I'm a beginner so I don't use much right a tiny 25 yard spool would do me well for a good time, but as I began to actually do more work , make more things , I began to realize "hey , this won't do". And this constant buying of thread has been on and on.I like to buy Tandy's nylon waxed thread: https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/waxed-nylon-thread-25-yds-22-9-m And it's only 4 dollars, right so I'm not complaining or anything but I really feel I could do better for the long run , I know not all of you go and buy tiny 25 yard spools but yeah what's something I could do to not spend 16 dollars on 100 yards ? Also , today I bought some "Omega nylon #2 thread" thinking I could rub some beeswax on it and pass it off as waxed nylon thread , I tried it , and it didn't feel as good as Tandy's, maybe because the beeswax was homemade ? Also , the thread isn't made up of 3 little stands like Tandy's, it's only 2. Could I somehow make this work ? It's 275 yards. Thank y'all in advance

Hello, I posted a similar topic a few years ago and I'm hoping to re-ignite the subject. I've been trying different methods over the years and I still have not found a clear-cut (or even close) method of burnishing thinner (i'm using 4/5 oz) natural leather without the edges being darkened too much and without making a mess of the face of the piece (or the flesh side, for that matter). I really like the look of completely untouched natural leather, so I don't want to put any sort of conditioner/sheen on the face as they all darken the leather at least a shade. I want to keep the natural leather as white/pink as possible with minimal water/paste mess from burnishing. I'm also having somewhat of an issue with the flesh edge of the leather folding over some with the thinner leather. I might be burnishing too quickly after wetting the edge, I don't know. I am using a pro edge burnisher in my drill press which works very well. Methods I've tried: - Just water This solves the edge darkening problem and also solves the mess problem when applied extremely carefully with a dauber or your finger. However, it doesn't give a lasting extra slick finish. - Just liquid Saddle soap This gives a slick finish, but darkens the leather edge a lot and also seems to soak into the leather more, which means messy and uneven looking edges. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water This darkens the edge a bit less (still more than i'd like) and soaks in a bit less, but isn't as slick as just straight up liquid saddle soap. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water, then beeswax, then canvas burnishing. Creates a slick edge, but is very hard to keep clean, and darkens the edge quite a bit. - Gum Tragacanth Creates a good slick edge (one coat is good, two coats is better), but is really really hard to keep clean. Doesn't darken the edge as much as the straight liquid saddle soap, but still darker than I like. One thing I did discover recently is that applying gum trag to the edge with the edge of a toothpick works well for keeping it clean, but is very tedious. Should I maybe burnish the edge with just water first before burnishing with gum trag? would that help keep the trag from seeping onto the face? I guess I'm just hoping that some magician out there has come up with a magical method/product that is easy to apply/won't make a mess/won't darken the edge too much. Haha. I'm also having a hard time with applying beeswax as its hardness makes it difficult to apply a sufficient amount of wax to the edge. I was considering making a mixture of beeswax, olive oil, and eucalyptus oil to stave off mould. I've heard of a beeswax/neatsfoot solution, but would prefer to use olive oil in its place. Does anyone have any experience with a wax/olive oil blend? I prefer not to use any paraffin. Thanks again, Zayne

Yep, another one of THESE threads. There's a wealth of info on this forum about making mugs and bottles and there's some contest as to what to use for a lining. I've made about twenty bottles so far and I'm pleased with how they work. (I've attached some pics just for showing off...) Now I'm about to start selling them in larger quantities so I wanted to pick everyones' brains for a bit. What I've learned: Pure beeswax lining seems pretty solid to me. Wet-forming the leather will harden it a bit, then adding the wax produces a very rigid surface. I need to do more extensive stress tests, but I did whack on one with my mallet and it was fine, and they've all survived plenty of falls because I'm a klutz. I don't notice a strong taste from the wax, but there is a bit of a waxy/leathery smell, which I actually find pretty delicious. I stress tested a couple of my bottles by carrying water and lemonade around all day and they seem fine. I also noticed that very slow leaks can develop in the seams. So you could pour water into the bottle and it would look fine at first, but after several hours would drip a little bit. So I now test all my bottles with water in them for a few hours before I'm satisfied. What I wanna know: I'm worried about hot days. Obviously hot liquids will melt the wax, and hot cars can easily do the same. But what about just walking around in the sun on a hot (say 95 degree Fahrenheit) day? Will it be okay if it has some water in it to keep the temperature down? If anyone has any personal experience, that's what I'm looking for! I've heard conflicting opinions on this next part... what about substances other than water? Are sugary drinks okay? Soda? Wine? Beer? Hard liquor? Will they strip the wax or should it be just fine? I'm not super concerned about drinking a bit of the wax--it's food safe, after all--but I am worried about long-term durability. Thanks everybody!