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I'm working on an idea for a wallet. I'm thinking about using a nice piece of soft green garment leather for the outside, with a cutout "window" showing a white background (a nice piece of white garment leather). Both the green and the white background will be stitched to a thicker piece of tooling leather. I'm thinking about the best way to stitch it, after gluing it down, considering the following diagram: (A) represents the normal saddle stitch, close to the edge. The edge of the green is not underneath the thread. (B) represents the other possibility, where the stitch passes over the edge of the green, locking it down and precluding the possibility of the edge being pulled up as the wallet goes in and out of the pocket over years of use. Is this something anybody here has experience with? There are two other possibilities: 1) Forget the inlay idea, and just tool the design into the leather. 2) Keep the inlay idea, but cut it into the tooling leather instead, dye it green, and then stitch the white background behind the tooling leather. What do you folks think?

This is my third wrist cuff, and my favorite so far (even if it doesn't fit me - I made it for my wife). Black oil-tanned and purple garment leather with nickle silver spots and a nickle silver button closure.

Hi all, I have a Juki Manufactured Econosew Walking Foot Industrial Sewing Machine with a Servo-Speed Motor. I've only had it a few months and I'm finding the tension to be very difficult to get correct. I have zero experience with industrial machines, especially for leather, so I've been having to figure it out as I go. I live pretty remotely so there's no one near who can come over and show me the ropes. I've spent hours and hours and hours adjusting the top and bottom tensions and I have yet to get it perfect. I discussed this with my mother in law who is a sewing machine genius (but sadly lives across the country) and she suggested that it could be the wrong needle and thread size for the weight of leather I use. Prior to getting the machine I researched here on the forum for needle and thread size for leather and was told to use needle size 22/140 and lubricated nylon thread size 138. However, I think the error is that those are for thicker and heavier leathers. I primarily need the machine for lightweight soft leathers and suedes. Think upholstery weight and sometimes even garment weight. Should I use a smaller needle? Different thread? The lubricated thread I got from http://www.tolindsewmach.com/ seems too slippery for what I sew and also too thin. I'd like thicker thread for the aesthetic. Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated. Tired of spending hours and getting nowhere.

Hi All, I'm new to sewing and new to working with leather, but I have a collection of leather remnants and an inherited industrial singer sewing machine (20U-109) that I would like to start experimenting with. I'm interested in trying my hand at making handbags and possibly some leather garments. I've read online that my machine can be used to sew leather, but when I called about getting my machine serviced, I was told that it would not sew leather. Has anyone used this type of machine for sewing leather? And more importantly, what kind of machine would you recommend to someone who was just starting out sewing leather? Thanks All, for any insight you may have! Emma

A local gentleman is selling a Singer 211G151 with table and "The Works". He is asking $300 for it, and it is in good working order and a trusted individual. I have a Tippmann Boss for my leather holster and heavy leather needs, but am thinking about getting into garment leather goods like small bags, pouches, etc .... Will this machine work good for garment leather and even lightweight canvas?