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Here are some videos of skiving with a new roller foot and some of the advantages this roller foot is capable of. Having worked with many various leather types over the years including glazed finished crocodile I found it necessary to have a skiving foot that did not scrape the top surface and allowed leather to go through more smoothly with less friction than the normal supplied feet can give. I made up my first roller foot by cutting down a spare normal foot and making a brass roller to fit onto it. This roller has almost never come off the machine ever since except for the occasional polish and oiling. Steve or on this forum member Singermania kindly provided me a couple of manufactured roller feet to try out. The long one interested me the most as I could see a few applications it could be good for. Unfortunately this foot did not fit straight onto either my Fortuna or FAV skiving machines and some modifications were needed but in the end I think well worth the trouble. The first 2 videos are all about the foot modifications and the last is a bit long but shows me trialling out some skiving operations. I hope these are of some help to any of you that are trying to master their skiving machines. Regards Brian

Sell leather splitting machine Camoga CN403, 40cm. Working machine, with a spare knife. 3300 $ (or 2900 euros) + delivery from Riga (Latvia). Price without VAT. Delivery by transport company from Latvia (Riga). Shipping cost depends on the location of the buyer.

First time posting here! Be gentle! I've been doing some leatherwork on and off for a few years. I'm pretty much self taught so there are some large gaps in my knowledge. I started in the theatrical costuming world, so I know how to sew or hand sew pretty much anything, and I can figure out any pattern I want to make. What I'm lacking is proper knowledge of leather prep. The project I'm working on now is recreating a braided leather hackamore for my father. The original was my great grandfathers and the last flood here in Bastrop got it. I know how to do the braid, it's a 8 string square braid over a core, that's the easy part. What I would like to know is threefold.... 1. I have the Tandy table top lace cutter, which I like fine. BUT what happens when you don't have long enough strings to create the whole braid? Is there a way to join ends when you know you're about to hit the end? I know I can hide a join under the other stands during the braid, but I'm not sure how to accomplish the join in the first place... skive the two ends and glue? Add a few stitches? 2. Do you bevel the edges of each of your strings in order to make everything look cleaner and neater? If so, what do you use? I have a french beveler, but it doesn't seem to be the best tool for the job... 3. The leather I think I'm using is the Acadia Old Town Folklore. It's about 5-5.5 oz. Is that going to be too think? I could have ordered it and had them dry split it, but I didn't think of it at the time. Should I invest in a manual splitter? I've seen them for $200 and over, but I can barely afford the $200 version... Any and all suggestions are SO VERY WELCOME! Thank you all, CA

Sell leather splitting machine, leather saddler shoemaker orthopedic 160 mm. Working machine. Price 570$ (or 500 euros) + delivery from Riga (Latvia). Price without VAT. Delivery by transport company from Latvia (Riga). Shipping cost depends on the location of the buyer.

Anyone using these, are they preferable to say Cobra Type14 and the motor operated Cowboy splitters?

Dear Members, You can see my double colored, washable suede work. I did it from splitted limed leather. I use splitted part (non-grain) and use "reactive dyes" for dyeing operation. There is not a surface operation, all processes wet tanning operations and leather has made in drum. Deliming, Bathing, Pickling, Tanning, Mecanial Operations( Sammying, shaving) Deacidification, Retanning, Dyeing and Fatliquoring. I use 2 different colors and "reactive dyes". So this suede is wasable. There is not a color contaminaion to other material during washing and after washing there is not a color fading. I did only 1/2 half side of leather for trial. So i will do whole leather. I know a lot of about leather making but leather goods making is very stranger for me. What should i do with double colored suede? Thank you for reading. Have a nice day.

Has anyone ever tried using a wood planer, similar to the one pictured below, to split leather? This machine cuts up to .125 inches and I was thinking that a piece of 8-9oz leather could be attached to a thin metal plate (to raise the leather up to help achieve the desired thickness) with the use of repositionable leather tape and passed through the machine. This would be for larger pieces and would be less expensive than buying some of the machines I've been thinking about purchasing. I'm assuming it would be the same principle but thought I'd reach out and get opinions of others out there in the community who may have had the same idea. Thanks in advance!

Hi All, Does any member know of a Bandknife Splitting service in the New York area. I need some skins split.

I would like to skive/split and finish some entire sides of Hermann Oak leather. I'd like to get them down to 3 oz (from 8-10oz) with a good, clean looking back. Does anyone know of a place that would offer this service? (I'm aware Wicket & Craig does this in-house for their leathers, but I haven't heard the same for Hermann Oak) Thanks!

This is just a very handy tool I have come up with that I mostly use for quick removal of thickness when I do my Crocodile backstrap belts. I have found by putting in place a steady at the front it can be rotated back to act as a thicknesser. I have sandwiched a coarse sandpaper between the rotating guide/steady, and this works well to hold firmly in place wherever I set the steady to.The steady can rotate right out of the way to allow free hand sanding or right in to touching.See the pics. The newer model I am working on will have a foot pedal to allow it to be opened and come back to an adjustable stopper which will improve the input of materials.Although I have bandknife splitters and skivers this machine would get used between 1 and 2 full days per week and I have another similar 2" version which gets at least 1 day per week. Hope this can be of help to anyone starting off. Note it takes a bit of practice if sanding down soft chrome leathers to a thickness.

I need some leather about 7.5 oz and I have some about 9 oz. What i want: Somebody SPLIT this leather for me, OR Somebody SELL me a bit of W/C black drum dyed skirting, holstered and split to about 7.5 oz This is to keep some boys happy who have already ordered. I could give them back their money, but they don't want the money- they prefer the holsters they asked for (that's why the ordered!) Some would say since I'm closing, doesn't matter - but I don't like to "do business' like that, even if it's not "for a business". I've been known to refer others to do the job(s) when I couldn't fit them in to customer schedules. I like seeing the customer AND the crafter gettin' 'er done! But this time not do-able. One of these is for a Boberg pistol, that i designed a while back. Designed for my buddy Robert (mecopocketholsters.com) so not up to me to share the design. So, somebody got the means to do one or the other IN THE NEXT WEEK OR SO, just figure a fair price, and then DOUBLE IT, and let me know Not about the money. SO, if you got some as I described, send me a 2 foot chunk and a bill for what... $40? Call it $50 with the shipping? Gotta be pretty darn nice for that price, but if you got the good stuff, $50 is acceptable

Hello, I am looking to buy a splitter for latigo whip plaiting and general splitting with low production volume (3-5 whips per week). What spliter does everyone recommend? I have been thinking a landis 5 in 1 or similar would work well for my shop but is it accurate enough? I see the most plaiters use the C.S. Osborn manual type, why is this? Thanks, Travis

Hi, Does anyone know where I can get my leather split and reduce the thickness?

Hello, I made a wallet out of the 5 oz leather I have...and of course it's a giant brick that you can't close when filled. For wallet interiors, is it wiser to spend the money on a splitter or order a whole hide already split? Are wallet and card holder pockets mostly 2 oz? Thanks, KP

I have been buying premade kangaroo lace and making show dog leads. My problem as I am trying to keep improving, is that the lace isn't the same thickness. Sometiimes it is wonderful and braids easily, and some parts or spools are really thick and hard - like braiding cardboard. My question, is there a way to split the premade lace? Any help is appreciated! Barb

I've had it for a year now and have only used it 3 or 4 times. It's a Osborne clone I believe. I just don't have the strength to pull the leather through it! I may put it up on Ebay but I thought I'd let my friends here have a chance at it first. If anyone is interested, I am asking $275.00 plus actual shipping. Just send me a message at my Email: blackriverlaser@gmail.com Thank you! Joyce~ It has a wooden handle instead of the cast iron one like in the picture.

Does anyone recognize this splitter? Can anyone tell e who made it? Do they make them still? Looks like it may be a one-off made in a machine shop, but made darn well! If I cannot find a maker nor any patent or licensing info on it, I may start having them reproduced. I have a great machinist here in town who can fabricate all the parts and will grind the blades, and one of the best blade makers/swordsmiths in the country is right here in town too(K.C. Lund) and he can do the heat treat on the 01 steel blades. We can even offer pattern welded (Damascus) blades if anyone wants to pay a ridiculous amount for one Let me know if y'all are interested, so I can look into whether or not it will be worthwhile to have these cranked out.