LSZ-1 Portable walking foot Upgraded

[kgg]

I had a special need for a small footprint machine and table to do basically one function in a particular location and at a low cost. I decided to get a portable walking foot machine and build a small table. The machine is one of the Sailrite clones so it is the same as the Reliable Barracuda, Rex, Consew and Omega to name a few. The job of this little machine is to do edge binding with either spools of raw edge binding or short lengths of binding with V92 thread. The Warlock purple color is to protect the innocent and is just some purple car wrapping I used.

The problems I needed to solve:

1) Have an almost full industrial size table in the least amount of space.

Solution: Build one. A standard table is 22"x48". Mine is 20"x47" when the 17" extension is in the up position. Which should I ever need to install a servo motor there is space.

2) Have quick access to such items as scissors, needles, bobbins, screwdriver, seam ripper, etc.

Solution: Design and build an Accessory holder for the left side head cover and one for the top of the machine. That lead me down the rabbit hole as the Sailrite has a real metal front but an Aluminum top cover while the look a likes have Aluminum front and top covers. So I had decided to a version for:

i) the Sailrite that uses real earth magnets

ii) flat faced machines like the Juki LS-341 and Juki 1341 and clones

iii) side mounted one that uses real earth magnets for the 441 style machines like your Cowboy's, Cobra's

iv) The version for the Sailrite look a likes required the Accessory Holder to be mounted to the left side head cover.

3) Have quick access to the left side head parts for oil and not having to remove the cover as those tiny little screws always go on a wonder.

Solution: Design and build a whole new left side head cover that had a hinged door that would accept an adjustable angle (horizontal to about 25 degrees) Accessory Holder

4) Fix up the clumsiness of having to reroute the top thread to the bobbin

Solution: Remove the top carry handle and utilize the existing holes to mount the modified top / bobbin thread guide, install a thread guide pin and replace the tiny screws with thumb screws. Never like the handle even when I own a Reliable Barracuda, the tiny hinge screws are, I think, just not strong enough to support the weight of the machine for much abuse.

5) Replace the cheap top thread guide with a proper one.

Solution: Remove and replace the guide with a proper one.

6) Get proper height distance from the top of the thread spool to the machine guides.

Solution: Install two thread spool holders under the table for both the spool height clearance and space savings on the table top. Route the threads up through the table to both table mounted guide rods. The purple one is one I made to look close to the original.

7) How to contain short lengths of edge binding rather then having it drape to the floor.

Solution: Design and build a large binding bobbin, bobbin holder guide that can be quickly installed on the front edge of the table top up to about 2 1/4" thick. My design can be used with domestic, portable walking foot and flatbed industrial sewing machines. I also designed and build one for cylinder bed industrial sewing machines.

8) How to wind short lengths of edge binding.

Solution: Design and build a binding bobbin that can be wound by hand or using either a domestic bobbin winder or a industrial sewing machine winder.

9) How to use the cost effective spools of raw edge binding up to 2" wide.

Solution: Design and build an adjustable spool platter with a bearing that can be quickly installed / removed on table tops up to 2 1/4" thick. The platter can accept up to 2" wide spools of raw edge binding up to 14" in diameter.

10) Getting the stitch length back to the same length after doing a reverse stitch is near impossible unless you always return to the max. stitch possible.

Solution: Design and build a new stitch length guide. I could have bought the Sailrite EZ for $49.95 but that required the existing stitch length threaded level to be remove, a new longer one installed and re-adjustments. So I made a simple one that just requires the old stitch level base to be removed and install a new one, about two minutes work.

All the upgrades are designed and built in Canada. These and others will be available shortly on my website: www.warlockdesigns.com email: parts@warlockdesigns.com

All comments greatly appreciated.

kgg

Edited April 30, 2022 by kgg
incorrect word

[chrisash]

Question are you inventing new parts just for the joy of it and are they really that useful?

[kgg]

9 minutes ago, chrisash said:

Question are you inventing new parts just for the joy of it and are they really that useful?

Both, as two of my hobbies are sewing machines and 3D printing. The parts I come up with speeds up the process by adding convenience and functionality to the process which makes it more enjoyable as I can concentrate more on the task at hand.

kgg

[dikman]

Impressive! Putting the thread spools below the table is an interesting idea.

I'm waiting for you to make a complete sewing machine with your 3D printer.

[suzelle]

Okay Smartie! LOVE the thread holders below the table! Mine always get in the way mounted in the usual manner on top of the table. I have done other things too when I didn't have a thread holder, like just sit one on a shelf above me. that works. But I like your idea best because it all stays on-board. Great! Love all the your ideas and the purple is fun too!

[kgg]

1 hour ago, dikman said:

Putting the thread spools below the table is an interesting idea.

 

24 minutes ago, suzelle said:

LOVE the thread holders below the table!

Thank you. under the table for the most part is underutilized and to mount them on the table top would have been a waste of space and to get the proper 2 1/2 times the height of the thread spools would have put to much of a downward angle in the thread path.

 

1 hour ago, dikman said:

I'm waiting for you to make a complete sewing machine with your 3D printer.

If I win the lottery I'll buy a metal 3 D printer for that project.

 

kgg

[RockyAussie]

15 hours ago, kgg said:

Both, as two of my hobbies are sewing machines and 3D printing. The parts I come up with speeds up the process by adding convenience and functionality to the process which makes it more enjoyable as I can concentrate more on the task at hand.

kgg

I am with you on this mostly but I have to say this new idea for holding my bobbins I am very happy with. I have done a few 3D printed bobbin holders but I don't like them on my table top either and with different machines I have in the past had to get loaded bobbins from different machines. This one gives me 19 pairs (38 total) of bobbins hung conveniently close and easily moved from one machine to another. Taint pretty being wood and nails but here it tis -  Hangs on the thread stand.

Edited May 1, 2022 by RockyAussie

[kgg]

34 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

Taint pretty being wood and nails but here it tis -  Hangs on the thread stand.

May not be pretty but it is functional, inexpensive and convenient. Which it is all about.

kgg

[jrdunn]

2 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Taint pretty being wood and nails but here it tis -  Hangs on the thread stand.

And... If you have an intruder, you can smack him with.  It might not disable him but he'd be easy to identify.

[suzelle]

4 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

I am with you on this mostly but I have to say this new idea for holding my bobbins I am very happy with. I have done a few 3D printed bobbin holders but I don't like them on my table top either and with different machines I have in the past had to get loaded bobbins from different machines. This one gives me 19 pairs (38 total) of bobbins hung conveniently close and easily moved from one machine to another. Taint pretty being wood and nails but here it tis -  Hangs on the thread stand.

Cool idea there Rocky! You guys are such inventors! Yes, very functional. You don't have to dig around in a drawer while the thread unwinds. Drives me crazy! Oh and the leather knot hanger thing - rustic!

Edited May 1, 2022 by suzelle

[MtlBiker]

@kgg - Gorgeous job!  I love the purple!

I really like the door at the left side of the machine to make oiling access super easy.  I'm less a fan of the tool holder part of that door, as I really like less clutter around the machine. 

From the photos you posted, I'm not quite clear about how the binding stuff works.  It looks like the end of the big spool of binding is just hanging over the front of the table.  And the small black spool in front looks like it's feeding to the binder attachment by the presser foot.  Could you clarify how all that works?  Binding is something that I've had a lot of trouble with, and I'd love to have a good solution.

You've obviously put a lot of thought and effort into all this.  Wow!  And kudos to you!

[dikman]

Use of the leather to hang it with gives it a finished look () but being an Aussie I'm surprised you didn't use fencing wire.

[kgg]

7 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

And the small black spool in front looks like it's feeding to the binder attachment by the presser foot.  Could you clarify how all that works?  Binding is something that I've had a lot of trouble with, and I'd love to have a good solution

Thank you, that is a fair question. I'll give it a try.

Thank you. In the photo's it was my attempt to show that you could use it with or without a large spool of binding tape. The black cup at the front of the table for all intents and purposes is a large bobbin holder. There a photo showing the actual bobbin that sets inside the black cup stood up on the right side of the table. The black cup is made up of two parts and the cup has to do double duty. The black cup as well as the binding tape platter can be quickly removed / installed by just loosening one tightening knob. It was designed to cover off both types of projects that need binding tape. When you have a project that is:

1. Going to need more then 30 ft. of raw edging binding tape you probably are going to need the larger flat spool of binding tape. This posed two main problems:

i) Getting the end of the binding tape to the folder / binding attachment at the right angle. Since the spools of binding are generally over 6 " in diameter finding a convenient mount and place the spool. It needs to be placed so it doesn't interfere with operating the reverse level of any machine and feeds the tape with the least amount of resistance. You really don't want you machine trying to tug and feed the whole weight (resistance) of the tape spool. So, I think, the idea location is at the rear of the machines table and the platter that the spool sits on has to have a decent mechanical bearing to reduce the spool friction.

ii) With that solved it is just a matter of directing the tape to the folder / binder. The exterior of the black cup has a track that is adjustable and allows at the correct angle to direct the end of the tape to the folder / binder so the tape is kept off the bed and eases the angle rather then making a sharp 90 degree turn.

2. Going to need less then 30 ft. of raw edging binding tape you probably going to use leftover binding or store bought flats. For this you would use the oversized bobbin inside the black cup. The black cup is a big bobbin holder with a bobbin that can accept binding up to 2" wide and about 30 ' of 0.048 inch or 1.20 mm thick Polypropylene.

Then there is the problem of winding this oversized bobbin. You could wind the bobbin by hand I guess but whether you use my setup with a domestic, portable walking foot, flatbed or cylinder bed sewing machine the one thing they all have in common is bobbin winder. So it was just a matter of figuring out how to get the bobbin on a winder. So you wind the bobbin up using the machines bobbin winder, put the bobbin cap over the bobbin shaft to help keep the tape neatly in place and insert it over the center post in the black cup. You then just pull the end out of the second slit in the black cup much like a regular bobbin and feed it to the folder. Bob's your uncle.

kgg

[MtlBiker]

12 hours ago, kgg said:

Thank you, that is a fair question. I'll give it a try.

Thank you. In the photo's it was my attempt to show that you could use it with or without a large spool of binding tape. The black cup at the front of the table for all intents and purposes is a large bobbin holder. There a photo showing the actual bobbin that sets inside the black cup stood up on the right side of the table. The black cup is made up of two parts and the cup has to do double duty. The black cup as well as the binding tape platter can be quickly removed / installed by just loosening one tightening knob. It was designed to cover off both types of projects that need binding tape. When you have a project that is:

1. Going to need more then 30 ft. of raw edging binding tape you probably are going to need the larger flat spool of binding tape. This posed two main problems:

i) Getting the end of the binding tape to the folder / binding attachment at the right angle. Since the spools of binding are generally over 6 " in diameter finding a convenient mount and place the spool. It needs to be placed so it doesn't interfere with operating the reverse level of any machine and feeds the tape with the least amount of resistance. You really don't want you machine trying to tug and feed the whole weight (resistance) of the tape spool. So, I think, the idea location is at the rear of the machines table and the platter that the spool sits on has to have a decent mechanical bearing to reduce the spool friction.

ii) With that solved it is just a matter of directing the tape to the folder / binder. The exterior of the black cup has a track that is adjustable and allows at the correct angle to direct the end of the tape to the folder / binder so the tape is kept off the bed and eases the angle rather then making a sharp 90 degree turn.

2. Going to need less then 30 ft. of raw edging binding tape you probably going to use leftover binding or store bought flats. For this you would use the oversized bobbin inside the black cup. The black cup is a big bobbin holder with a bobbin that can accept binding up to 2" wide and about 30 ' of 0.048 inch or 1.20 mm thick Polypropylene.

Then there is the problem of winding this oversized bobbin. You could wind the bobbin by hand I guess but whether you use my setup with a domestic, portable walking foot, flatbed or cylinder bed sewing machine the one thing they all have in common is bobbin winder. So it was just a matter of figuring out how to get the bobbin on a winder. So you wind the bobbin up using the machines bobbin winder, put the bobbin cap over the bobbin shaft to help keep the tape neatly in place and insert it over the center post in the black cup. You then just pull the end out of the second slit in the black cup much like a regular bobbin and feed it to the folder. Bob's your uncle.

kgg

Thanks very much for explaining that.  Much clearer now.

The large spool of binding you show... is that the way you buy it?  The ones I've bought (from A&E) are drum-shaped.  I can't imagine unwinding those and trying to re-wind them flat like you show.

 

[cynthiab]

Hey kgg,

Just a heads up - I went to your web site www.warlockdesigns.com and this is what showed up "Welcome to Nopper Tollers!" Its a Dog breed site. You might want to check on that. Let us all know when this is straightened out... I'm rather interested in your stitch length regulator.

Cheers

[kgg]

2 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

The large spool of binding you show... is that the way you buy it?  The ones I've bought (from A&E) are drum-shaped.

The ones I use are on the flat spools rather then the rolls. If you order binding from A & E they are available in both styles and will usually say they are "put up on rolls or spools" in their description.

2 hours ago, cynthiab said:

Just a heads up - I went to your web site www.warlockdesigns.com and this is what showed up "Welcome to Nopper Tollers!" Its a Dog breed site.

Thank you. Since this is a new website (www.warlockdesigns.com) we had to put something there so the address would propagate properly across the web and be concerned a scam site. It will be there for a couple of days until we can start to work on the site. Also that site for Nopper Tollers is my dog breeding site as I do show and breed Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retrievers under the Permanently Register Canadian Kennel Club (CKC) kennel name "Nopper". They are one of the five recognized pure breed dog breeds of Canada ( Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever, Newfoundland Dog and Labrador Retriever, Tahltan Bear Dog, Canadian Inuit Dog,).

kgg

[kgg]

2 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

It looks like your website has been hijacked.

Thanks Wiz. The site should now say " We're coming soon  Thank you for visiting! We will be up and running soon!"

kgg

 

[kgg]

2 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

I can't imagine unwinding those and trying to re-wind them flat like you show.

I personally don't like the rolls but they have their place as I like the more even roll off of the tape that a flat spool offers. Looking at the size of base I figure it is about 4 or 6 inches in diameter. The revolving platter would work just by sliding off the extension arms of the platter and removing the center alignment off the pin that protrudes through the platter base. That would reduce the platter base down to 6" in diameter. Then slide the roll down over the center pin for mounting the roll then thread the end of the tape through the outside edge of the Black Cup to guide the tape it to the folder / binding attachment. Bobs your Uncle.

kgg

[Tio]

Nice mods!  I am interested in No. 10, the stitch length guide.  It is an issue with my Sew Strong, another Sailrite clone.

[kgg]

2 minutes ago, Tio said:

It is an issue with my Sew Strong, another Sailrite clone.

Down me a pm.

kgg

 

[Tejas]

I mounted a paper towel holder on the right-front underside of the sewing table to feed binder tape to my Juki. Handles large drum rolls and I've had no problem with it getting in the way

[Tio]

On 5/2/2022 at 1:26 PM, Tio said:

Nice mods!  I am interested in No. 10, the stitch length guide.  It is an issue with my Sew Strong, another Sailrite clone.

 It’s not an issue any more!  Thanks kkg.  This thing fit like a glove and works like a champ! 

[kgg]

8 hours ago, Tio said:

It’s not an issue any more!  Thanks kkg.  This thing fit like a glove and works like a champ! 

Thank you.

I am glad that my Warlock Stitch Guide fitted and works properly. I think it is a more cost effective alternative and simpler to install / use then the Sailrite one.

kgg

 

[cynthiab]

KKG,

Thank you for the well made little stitch length guide. It fits my little yard sale find LZ1 clone perfectly. Love it, and it was a breeze to put on my machine.

Keep up the good work and keep coming up with these cool ideas.

[kgg]

2 minutes ago, cynthiab said:

Thank you for the well made little stitch length guide. It fits my little yard sale find LZ1 clone perfectly. Love it, and it was a breeze to put on my machine.

Keep up the good work and keep coming up with these cool ideas.

Thank you for your kind words. I am glad it was easy to install and works as you expect it to. More coming not just for the portable walking foot machines. I am presently working on two little projects in my spare time. One for a self contained / driven bobbin winder that will be able to wind 3 bobbins at the same time a) class 15, b) M size bobbins c) Class 441 bobbins as well as my bias tape bobbin ii) drop down roller edge guide for the portable walking foot machines.

kgg