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Posted (edited)

Hmmmmm ....... I wonder .......... At the risk of sounding like John Cleese, have you actually done any leatherwork or saddle stitching yet?

It's not as easy as it looks, at least not to do it neatly; remember that the people who make the YT videos such as JH Leather, Ian Atkinson, Leathercraft Masterclass, Corter Leather, Nigel Armitage and others,  are experts and they've been doing it for years. And the finer or closer the stitching, the more difficult it becomes

I suggest you get an awl with  a small blade by Osborne or Pro Atelier Plus; 0,35 to 0,45mm synthetic thread, and John James L3912 saddler's harness needles size 004 . Then make a few card holders and wallets, and see how you get on

As far as a clamp or a pony goes, if you want to make shoes, you may as well get a full size saddlers clam, aka saddlers clamp, from the start

Add this to all the other stuff you'll need and you'll find that it adds up to quite a lot of money, but that's usually the case for most hobbies/sports/crafts when you start

Oh, and remember you'll need leather as well!

Edited by zuludog
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Posted

From the OP:

" i plan on making luxury shoes and eventually small leather goods."

 

With respect, I think that is the wrong way around.  Making shoes worthy of luxury prices requires a much higher degree of skills, and I'd argue that even experienced leatherworkers wouldn't tackle them.

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Posted
1 hour ago, Bert03241 said:

14 per inch thats crazy:o

Warning; deviation; yup, but not impossible. I inspected an Italian made saddle of 1812. It had stitches of 18 per inch

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

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Posted

Great to dream big.  I dream of building a jumping saddle while honing my skills on bridles, reins, and halters.  The more I learn about saddlery the less likely my dream becomes, but I'm becoming a better judge of saddle quality and fit.  Feel privileged to learn this traditional craft and practice it at whatever level I can.  @Key if you learn to hand sew there will be no shortage of projects that you can do. 

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2 hours ago, TomE said:

Great to dream big.  I dream of building a jumping saddle while honing my skills on bridles, reins, and halters.  The more I learn about saddlery the less likely my dream becomes, but I'm becoming a better judge of saddle quality and fit.  Feel privileged to learn this traditional craft and practice it at whatever level I can.  @Key if you learn to hand sew there will be no shortage of projects that you can do. 

Thanks @TomE.

 I am a big dreamer and have no doubt ill get there is I work hard and persist.

As previously mentioned i am a beginner so have not done any leatherwork hence my questioning and eagerness to learn.

Every marathon starts with a step.

i have been made aware that this particular forum is not suited to my topic of discussion so I will leave it there.

Thanks for all the help and advice.

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Posted

@Key  I’m surprised no one mentioned something that I always do before hand stitching, using a stitch groover.  The groover creates a small groove where you’re going to stitch, that allows the thread to “lay in” the leather, it also gives you a line to follow whether you use pricking irons or chisels.   Of course you can always just use a wheel to mark your holes and then use an awl. 

I’d practice (a lot), as @zuludog said, everything looks easy when done by someone with years of experience.  To make a good saddle stitch you need to be consistent and repeatable, over and over again. 

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Posted

Not everybody uses a groover, it's as simple as that. 

@Key Really fine leather is not sewn in saddle stitch, as far as I know, but with glover's needles. The names indicate the purpose. And frankly, I would think that shoes are a very different subject altogether. Because, as with saddles, it's not just a question of making an item well, but of making something that fits well, which adds a whole other dimension. 

In your place I would start out leatherwork with Jo's pattern for a needle case. It's free, easy to make and you end up with a useful item. Then maybe a checkbook cover, if you use checks. Or a simple wallet or card holder. Those are essentially flat items, which simplifies things. Then move up to 3D bags (those with a gusset) - I find them much more difficult, if only because they are more difficult to hold for stitching. And then consider what you really want to do. 

 

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My two cents worth... I've only been saddle stitching for about 2 years now. I started with Tandy diamond stitching chisels in 3.5 mm. They worked fine for me at the time. Until I bent one (my fault). I replaced the single one I had bent. But after watching a lot of Nigel's videos on saddle stitching I purchased Kevin Lee stitching chisels. Made my saddle stitching 100% better!! Front and back. They are a little spendy but I think worth every penny. I have never used a groover as I don't like that look personally. Drilled holes same. I only make knife sheaths and the occasional small wallet and minimalist wallets.

 

1 st pic with Tandy tools.

2nd with Kevin Lee...much cleaner and more distinct angle. Which I prefer. 

10 sheaths.jpg

2nd pic

lee stitching 2.jpg

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Posted

Thanks for those photos. I think sheaths are on my list of to do’s but still working with flat stuff for now. 

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