Who Does This?

[TomE]

Does this side stitch on a buckle turn serve a purpose other than exposing the thread to wear and breakage?  What is the stitch called?  I added it to this replacement bridle cheek piece to match existing.  On my own work I stitch straight up against the buckle and skip the side stitch.  Am I missing something?

 

[Tugadude]

Apparently many do...

[Tugadude]

As far as wear and breakage, I guess it depends on the product and its use.  An average person's belt probably is less of a risk as compared to horse tack.  

If it bothers you, don't do it.  Simple as that.  If the straps you are making will be subject to a lot of rubbing in that area, then it is definitely more prone to failure.

I don't know what to call it, maybe a "side stitch" or "edge stitch" perhaps.  I do use that stitch and have done so on belts with no negative effects.  I also have used it on wallets and watch straps.

Nigel Armitage is, in my opinion, an expert on leatherworking.  He uses the "edge stitch" in this demonstration video.  

 

[TomE]

18 minutes ago, Tugadude said:

Apparently many do...

Yes, it’s a thing. I’m uncertain if it’s functional or just a look.  My go to resources gave mixed results. Steinke (“Bridlework”) mentions that one or two side stitches are often added “to gather up” the buckle turn. Doesn’t give it a name or say whether it improves wear. This side stitch is inconsistently used by makers of expensive tack. Couldn’t find mention of this stitch by Stohlman in books on hand sewing, case making, and belts. As you said, I guess it’s my tack my rules.  With bridles it’s usually the points or the buckle turn that tears out and the stitching isn’t damaged. 

Edited August 29, 2022 by TomE

[tsunkasapa]

It is nothing that I do, or would do.

[Tugadude]

48 minutes ago, TomE said:

Yes, it’s a thing. I’m uncertain if it’s functional or just a look.  My go to resources gave mixed results. Steinke (“Bridlework”) mentions that one or two side stitches are often added “to gather up” the buckle turn. Doesn’t give it a name or say whether it improves wear. This side stitch is inconsistently used by makers of expensive tack. Couldn’t find mention of this stitch by Stohlman in books on hand sewing, case making, and belts. As you said, I guess it’s my tack my rules.  With bridles it’s usually the points or the buckle turn that tears out and the stitching isn’t damaged. 

I checked my two "go to" resources, Valerie Michael's 'The Leatherworking Handbook' and Al Stohlman's 'The Art of Hand Sewing Leather' and neither shows the "side stitch" on belts.  Just shows there's more than one way to do things I suppose.  

There are other areas where folks differ, for example, to recess stitches in a groove or not.  Some say it is an "American" thing.  And those who say it is unnecessary point to hundred year old English saddles that are holding up just fine, sans grooves.  

In the end people just need to commit to doing what they think is best and let others do likewise.  And of what you are doing fails, evaluate and change if necessary.

[TomE]

19 minutes ago, Tugadude said:

There are other areas where folks differ, for example, to recess stitches in a groove or not.  Some say it is an "American" thing.  And those who say it is unnecessary point to hundred year old English saddles that are holding up just fine, sans grooves.  

In the end people just need to commit to doing what they think is best and let others do likewise.  And of what you are doing fails, evaluate and change if necessary.

The only thing I use a groover for is to seat a stud hook in the platform of a cheek piece.  The groove made in the flesh side between the layers holds the base of the stud hook in place.  I don't like the idea of removing the strongest part of the leather (the grain) for a stitch line.  Kind of defeats the purpose of saddle stitching as a stronger method of sewing, which is another debate....

[fredk]

5 hours ago, TomE said:

Does this side stitch on a buckle turn serve a purpose other than exposing the thread to wear and breakage?  

I have done that on straps. It helps pull the two leathers tighter together at the edge. . . . . .  But. a: I've done it at both ends of the fold-over and b: I cut a narrow slot for the thread to sit down into so it was no higher than the edge and c: at the cut edge of the fold-over I did a stitch over that edge as well.

[Mulesaw]

@TomE

I have done it on some tack as weeel as on a couple of belts. I like the look of it, and I think it can help in holding the piece together for the first couple of stitches so that it doesn't slide around. Not that it is a huge problem though.

Apart from that: really nice work !

[Hags]

I think it is a "look" as much as a function. I like the look of it, doesn't seem to add much to the time of assembly, so why not?