Manual machine

[Wyowally]

1 hour ago, chuck123wapati said:

Seems it works pretty well if you use it in lighter leathers. i see it as a way to get a better machine by utilizing it within its abilities.

 Then maybe mine will collect some dust too. lol but i doubt if i get it dialed in to a certain task i will get rid of it.

 

 

Here is about how thick I can sew veg tan without modding. Changed stitch length for the pic, it does go longer.

Edited January 16, 2023 by Wyowally
fix typos

[chuck123wapati]

3 minutes ago, Wyowally said:

 

that's about what i am getting also but it isn't as reliable at that thickness as i would like it yet. That thickness would be great i would have a lot more options. 

I'll be getting the longer needles next as you can in your photo that thickness is almost up to the taper of the needle, on mine if i go any thicker it sticks and raises the foot 

[TonyV]

I've found that adjusting the stitch length is how to use it on thicker leather.  Longer stitch length for thick material, short stitch for thin stuff.  The stitch control is that little bolt on the underside the arm.  A little turn is a fairly big adjustment.

I can't sew good straight lines with the patcher, so no good for presentable leather work, but I do use it for repairing various things, from my denim jeans to the dog's seat cover in my truck, a pair of sneakers, etc..  In that regard it has actually paid for itself and its place under the bench.  But I have made a few little things, a hatchet sheath, a key fob a knife sheath.  They came out ok, just not ready for prime time.  I don't believe it is intended for production, only repair.  And for that, it works just fine (once you go through the learning curve and tinkering phase).

Even my lousy hand stitching is better than the patcher, not because it doesn't sew, but because it is so difficult to control the work piece with one hand while the other hand is cranking the handle.  If it were motorized I would have both hands available to manage the work piece and it would perform much better. 

[kgg]

14 hours ago, TonyV said:

I can't sew good straight lines with the patcher

 

14 hours ago, TonyV said:

Even my lousy hand stitching is better than the patcher, not because it doesn't sew, but because it is so difficult to control the work piece with one hand while the other hand is cranking the handle. 

To help with this you could fashion up a edge guide mounted to a little table surface. Don't use a magnetic edge guide on the nose area as it will lift the bobbin up and fowl the bobbin stitches.

kgg

[chuck123wapati]

33 minutes ago, kgg said:

 

To help with this you could fashion up a edge guide mounted to a little table surface. Don't use a magnetic edge guide on the nose area as it will lift the bobbin up and fowl the bobbin stitches.

kgg

i can go slow enough to place the needle in a crease and still out sew myself ten times over. An edge guide is on the list as well. 

[chuck123wapati]

5 hours ago, kgg said:

 

To help with this you could fashion up a edge guide mounted to a little table surface. Don't use a magnetic edge guide on the nose area as it will lift the bobbin up and fowl the bobbin stitches.

kgg

here is my first try aside form the turkey tracks what do you think? the thread looks small for the hole but i haven't pounded it down.  I used a shmetz 110/18 leather needle with tex 90 thread. 

[Wizcrafts]

It looks good enough to me. As for the thread/needle combination, I usually use a #19 needle with T90 thread. You got good stitches and hidden knots with a #18.

As for the appearance of the holes, they almost look like round holes to me. That could be caused if you used diamond/tri point needles instead of an S inline chisel, or LR slanted chisel needle.

One trick I've learned when the holes are objectionable is to increase the top tension to pull the knots higher up so they are just visible, but below the top surface. In effect, you are filling in the holes from the top view. It's not ideal, but can be a useful solution to an issue like this.

[chuck123wapati]

14 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

It looks good enough to me. As for the thread/needle combination, I usually use a #19 needle with T90 thread. You got good stitches and hidden knots with a #18.

As for the appearance of the holes, they almost look like round holes to me. That could be caused if you used diamond/tri point needles instead of an S inline chisel, or LR slanted chisel needle.

One trick I've learned when the holes are objectionable is to increase the top tension to pull the knots higher up so they are just visible, but below the top surface. In effect, you are filling in the holes from the top view. It's not ideal, but can be a useful solution to an issue like this.

thank you Wiz i had hoped you would add a word it is a Schmetz leather needle,  i believe it is a tri point needle. thank you for the tip!!  i was taught to sew on a machine as a boy but that was a looooong time ago so have have forgotten most of what my mom taught me and it wasn't leather lol.  Once i wet formed it to the stock they pretty much closed up. 

[Wizcrafts]

7 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

it is a Schmetz leather needle,  i believe it is a tri point needle.

What system are those needles? There just may be an S point available.

[chuck123wapati]

8 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

What system are those needles? There just may be an S point available.

they are for the home machines 130/705  H LL 110/ 18 on the box.  i can go up to the system 135 but haven't yet i saw they had some different shapes for the larger system  and i will be doing that as i get the bugs worked out. I am shopping and researching on the thread exchange. 

[kgg]

2 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

here is my first try aside form the turkey tracks what do you think?

Looks good.

13 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

i can go up to the system 135 but haven't yet i saw they had some different shapes for the larger system 

Another good place to check for needles and thread is Wawak.com.

Example:

i) Needles: ( https://www.wawak.com/sewing/needles/industrial-machine/schmetz-leather-industrial-machine-needles-135x16-tri-dpx16-d-10pack/#sku=smnl135118 )

ii) V92 Thread: ( https://www.wawak.com/thread/thread-by-brand/ae/ae-anefil-thread-tex-90-1100-yds/#sku=thd290be )

kgg

[chuck123wapati]

8 minutes ago, kgg said:

Looks good.

Another good place to check for needles and thread is Wawak.com.

Example:

i) Needles: ( https://www.wawak.com/sewing/needles/industrial-machine/schmetz-leather-industrial-machine-needles-135x16-tri-dpx16-d-10pack/#sku=smnl135118 )

ii) V92 Thread: ( https://www.wawak.com/thread/thread-by-brand/ae/ae-anefil-thread-tex-90-1100-yds/#sku=thd290be )

kgg

thank you And they have a free book!!!! 

[kgg]

12 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

they have a free book!!!! 

Which one, I missed that.

kgg

[chuck123wapati]

4 minutes ago, kgg said:

Which one, I missed that.

kgg

just thier catalog lol. i love a good catalog.

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, chuck123wapati said:

1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said:

What system are those needles? There just may be an S point available.

they are for the home machines 130/705  H LL 110/ 18 on the box.  i can go up to the system 135 but haven't yet i saw they had some different shapes for the larger system  and i will be doing that as i get the bugs worked out. I am shopping and researching on the thread exchange.

You probably won't find the S point needles at TE, Wk or most other tailor supplies sellers. The needles I am referring to are Schmetz "Pfaff" System 134-35 in S points. Those are inline chisel points. That system is about 1/16" shorter than a System 135x16 walking foot needle. If you can adjust the needle bar height and accept 2mm shanks, they will fit your machine and give a nice submerged looking stitch line. I got some from Bob Kovar and they time well on my walking foot machines that don't have reverse.

[chuck123wapati]

32 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

You probably won't find the S point needles at TE, Wk or most other tailor supplies sellers. The needles I am referring to are Schmetz "Pfaff" System 134-35 in S points. Those are inline chisel points. That system is about 1/16" shorter than a System 135x16 walking foot needle. If you can adjust the needle bar height and accept 2mm shanks, they will fit your machine and give a nice submerged looking stitch line. I got some from Bob Kovar and they time well on my walking foot machines that don't have reverse.

thanks i will check that out.

 

[Frodo]

I found the lever to raise the foot on the backside of the machine a total pita

my patcher came with 2 thread tension disc assemblies, I removed the one for the bobbin winder and drilled the hole out 1/8”

 

Handle modification

[chuck123wapati]

32 minutes ago, Frodo said:

I found the lever to raise the foot on the backside of the machine a total pita

my patcher came with 2 thread tension disc assemblies, I removed the one for the bobbin winder and drilled the hole out 1/8”

 

Handle modification

great idea !!!! 

[Burkhardt]

11 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

here is my first try aside form the turkey tracks what do you think? the thread looks small for the hole but i haven't pounded it down.  I used a shmetz 110/18 leather needle with tex 90 thread. 

It's a lot easier to go one crank at a time then by hand stitching. I think it looks good. I'll look tomorrow I got a whole bunch of different points in the 135x16s and 17s since I'd figure I'd go through a bunch and I used like 3 needles and I have like 10 different packs.

[chuck123wapati]

after finishing i think they look like any other machine stitches. the turkey tracks are virtually unnoticeable also all i have done to the foot is smooth them off so they don't tear the leather, they were as sharp as sharks teeth lol.  i will be fixing the foot more however.

[Wizcrafts]

2 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

i will be fixing the foot more however.

Caution! Use heat shrink or tight fit tubing if you must. DO NOT grind the teeth! You will need them down the road to pull some difficult work through. Ask me how I know.

[chuck123wapati]

6 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

Caution! Use heat shrink or tight fit tubing if you must. DO NOT grind the teeth! You will need them down the road to pull some difficult work through. Ask me how I know.

i was going that route but i also have in mind making a better foot with shallower teeth. The biggest problem i see with them is they are so rough they tear the top layer of leather all i have done so far is finish them better so they arent rough and sharp. the tension is at the very minimum

[Frodo]

I sent you a right and left foot  both have heat shrink on them 

 

 

[chuck123wapati]

25 minutes ago, Frodo said:

I sent you a right and left foot  both have heat shrink on them 

 

 

Dang I haven't tried them yet that will be todays tinker lol.

[Frodo]