Contrasting thread color

[toxo]

Here's another showing dying before stitching.

 

[AlZilla]

@toxo, I see what you're thinking. Holsters can go either way, flat on the back, or not, depending on the design. Usually when I make an IWB holster, I stitch it up and wet form it in a vacuum so it's fitted on both sides.  Some designs definitely have a flat back.

[GatoGordo]

2 hours ago, toxo said:

If I were to make a holster this way I would wrap the gun in plastic film, lay it down and prop it up level, then using some kind of moulding clay I would press it all around the gun to make a mould. Then using something like resin I would pour it into the mould to make a form that I could use again and again using the normal wet moulding techniques.

While I have made one (almost) flat-back pancake holster, that is not the standard.

Here is an image of an Avenger holster. You can see that the leather is not flat, but wraps around the gun. The leather is then molded to the gun both front and back. There is also the problem of the reinforcement panel. I have no idea how one would stitch the reinforcement panel in place after molding. 

[Brooks125]

4 hours ago, caressofsteel said:

Have you tried nylon thread? I have not personally tried to dye it, but nylon thread is supposed to be terribly difficult to dye.

I have seen other people's projects where the leather is stitched with white nylon thread and then dipped dyed black.

4 hours ago, JustPete said:

Have you tried black pre-dyed holster leather? It seems to mold well enough for my needs, but I do mostly knife sheath work and its not always AS reliant on a tight friction fit. 

The thread stays white. Seems you could test this on some scraps to see if it would be a possible solution.

I have not tried nylon, but I may be, shortly.  If that is as resistant as you suggest, that may open things up a bit, Thanks.

I have tried the pre-dyed leather.  It molds a little, but not to my liking.  It has too much of a "vinyl-y" feel for what I do. But thanks.

... and sorry if this post went a little off the rails.

[Doc Reaper]

What the hell guys?!?! Y’all are talking about going around your buttocks to get to your elbow. I always cut - tool - stain/dye - sew - mold - sand - final dye - polish. 
How in the world do ya sew a holster after it’s folded and sewn along the trigger/spine????????? Do a video so we can all see how it’s done!

[toxo]

8 hours ago, Doc Reaper said:

What the hell guys?!?! Y’all are talking about going around your buttocks to get to your elbow. I always cut - tool - stain/dye - sew - mold - sand - final dye - polish. 
How in the world do ya sew a holster after it’s folded and sewn along the trigger/spine????????? Do a video so we can all see how it’s done!

We can all pick a project to suit an argument. I had no specific project in mind, I was merely pointing out that it's possible to mould - dye and then stitch.

[chuck123wapati]

14 hours ago, toxo said:

Let me first state that I don't make holsters. That being said I have wet moulded many other things. There are many examples on Y/T of getting detail into wet moulding using all sorts of tools including bone folders and fingers as the leather dries.

When I pondered this problem I assumed the back of the holster would be flat, (why wouldn't it be if it lies against the body?). But now I understand that not everyone makes holsters this way.

If I were to make a holster this way I would wrap the gun in plastic film, lay it down and prop it up level, then using some kind of moulding clay I would press it all around the gun to make a mould. Then using something like resin I would pour it into the mould to make a form that I could use again and again using the normal wet moulding techniques.

toxo blue guns are exact replicas of the gun so real guns don't have to be used. the wet forming process of the type holster he makes uses the forming as the friction that holds the weapon secure in the holster, its not for looks necessarily  so the fit has to be exact.  I think that's the part you aren't understanding of the question. The sewing also has to be tight and exact along the lines of the guns so the leather doesn't lose its form and fit as time goes on.  

[Brooks125]

17 hours ago, Brooks125 said:

I have not tried nylon, but I may be, shortly.  If that is as resistant as you suggest, that may open things up a bit, Thanks.

I have tried the pre-dyed leather.  It molds a little, but not to my liking.  It has too much of a "vinyl-y" feel for what I do. But thanks.

... and sorry if this post went a little off the rails.

I have no idea where my head was on this response.  YES, I use bonded nylon and it does maintain some of the "antique" look with completely changing color when I use white and then dye the leather.  I just finished a holster that matches my question here.  The long soak seemed to be the answer.

[JLSleather]

not sure what trounble you're having. I sometimes dye a holster after constructing it, but far more often I dye the leather and THEN cut out the parts. There's a reason for that, another time.

I haven't had any issues with the dyed leather not taking water, the exception being some drum-dyed HO I ordered exactly ONCE  and for exactly that reason.

I like that contrasting look, and many other people seem to, too.   Still, I sometimes let the thread go in BEFORE the dye, as in  the last pic.

 

 

[Frodo]

I make the front of the holster 3/8” larger than the Back section

sew them together

wet the front section and not the back

shove a mold into the holster and vacuum seal it. 
 

this, for me, leaves the back flat and only the front is molded

little tip/trick  place the holster on a 2x4 before vacuuming