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Posted
5 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

I would suggest dropping out the left leg and try and get something closer to the 3rd pic down on this page

You have a good idea BUT he'll need something stronger like a 2x6 for a bottom brace to hold all the weight of the arm hanging out the leftside of the stand.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

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Posted
22 hours ago, AlZilla said:

One - step - at - a - time.  I don't know how my heirs will get it back down

Put it on toboggan and ride it down.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

Yep, what Bob said. This is what I ended up with (was originally a "conventional" table), shifting the left leg in caused a problem because the weight of the overhang is significant. I had to reinforce the underside of the bottom piece that carries the pedals and fit a castor wheel at the end to stop it falling over. It's not as rigid as I would like but it works for my needs.

 

4500 table 4a.jpg

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, dikman said:

It's not as rigid as I would like but it works for my needs.

As all as it works for your needs that's the main thing.

16 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

In this video I did awhile back shows what I think is a good reason to consider it all be it a different machine the same problem exists

I do appreciate the suggestion but my main consideration is the machine has to be topple proof because I have dogs and when they get rough housing I don't want them to be able to tip the machine from any direction. Odd need I know other wise I would have probably considered a pedestal style stand.

As an update:

i) The redneck bath and oiling is done.

ii) I threaded some V207 on top and in the bobbin, stuffed 12.5 oz (5mm) of leather under the pressure foot and said it's make or break time.

The photo (ko13.jpg) shows the first seam sewn with the machine, top (shiny side) and bottom. The photo (ko14.jpg) shows the bottom.

I am surprised on how quiet it was as it sewed effortlessly through the leather and that was with a unknown brand of needle that came with the machine. The 800 watt brushless servo motor and machine is quieter then my KOBE LS-1341 with a 550watt brush motor.

iii) The other photo (ko12.jpg) is showing the comparison between what I would consider a poorer quality bobbin and a good metal bobbin side by side.

I'm actually impressed, so far. The servo motor showed no signs of struggling with what I was sewing and the speed is very controllable to control. I may not have to put a speed reducer on.

iv) Made a wax pot insert. Since for my needs I can't see myself needing to fill the pot with any fluid so it is or should I say was a waste of space. It now holds two bobbins and some needles.

Photo (ko15.jpg) shows the wax pot with the cover closed.

Photo (ko16.jpg) shows the wax pot with the cover open and with a few needles and two bobbins inside.

Photo (ko17.jpg) shows the wax pot insert sat on top of the cover.

Next step is to cut the table top, maybe tomorrow and if my calculations are right the machine won't wind up going through the floor into the basement.

kgg

 

ko13.jpg

ko14.jpg

ko12.jpg

ko15.jpg

ko16.jpg

ko17.jpg

Edited by kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

Neat idea for making use of the wax pot (I just took mine off as I considered it superfluous). 

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

Posted
56 minutes ago, dikman said:

Neat idea for making use of the wax pot (I just took mine off as I considered it superfluous). 

Thank you. The reason I'm keeping it on the machine is that the thread guide on top of the wax pot is directly inline with the guide for the top thread tension disc. I'm waiting for the 3D printer to finish off a new support for the top thread pin to keep the thread in a nice straight line along the top of the machine and inline with the wax pot guide. If I'm not mistaken most clone machines mount the thread spools parallel to the machine along the rear edge of the table top and then go directly from the thread spool guide to the top thread tensioner.

Me being me I want as few angles so the thread is as close to a straight line as possible from the thread spool top guide to the tensioner. My spools of thread are going to be mounted under the table top so I can make better use of the table top for other things.

I didn't get at cutting the table top today as I had to pickup a new 100 tooth blade.

kgg

 

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted
On 7/16/2023 at 10:47 AM, kgg said:

I do appreciate the suggestion but my main consideration is the machine has to be topple proof because I have dogs and when they get rough housing I don't want them to be able to tip the machine from any direction. Odd need I know other wise I would have probably considered a pedestal style stand.

Funny you mention that. I have a freind up the road had his dog sit on the peddle while the machine was still turned on. A nasty mess with timing and all. Always make sure you turn the machine off when you finish I learned. Servo's don't let you know they are running.

WH.jpgWild Harry - Australian made leather goods
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Posted
2 hours ago, kgg said:

Thank you. The reason I'm keeping it on the machine is that the thread guide on top of the wax pot is directly inline with the guide for the top thread tension disc. I'm waiting for the 3D printer to finish off a new support for the top thread pin to keep the thread in a nice straight line along the top of the machine and inline with the wax pot guide. If I'm not mistaken most clone machines mount the thread spools parallel to the machine along the rear edge of the table top and then go directly from the thread spool guide to the top thread tensioner.

Me being me I want as few angles so the thread is as close to a straight line as possible from the thread spool top guide to the tensioner. My spools of thread are going to be mounted under the table top so I can make better use of the table top for other things.

I didn't get at cutting the table top today as I had to pickup a new 100 tooth blade.

kgg

 

Not wax pot, oil pot.

glenn

Posted
45 minutes ago, shoepatcher said:

Not wax pot, oil pot.

You are correct as the real Juki part number 210-64753 as listed in the parts manual list it as Oil Pot Assembly where as places like Campbell Randell list it as part number JUK-21064753 : Thread Wax Pot - Cast Oiler. I think the common reference to the pot as a wax pot is from olden days when beeswax was used in machines like Pearson and Landis.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted
2 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Funny you mention that. I have a freind up the road had his dog sit on the peddle while the machine was still turned on. A nasty mess with timing and all. Always make sure you turn the machine off when you finish I learned. Servo's don't let you know they are running.

I can honestly see that happening with dogs and probably more so with cats deciding to have a nap there. I have one of those little magnetic LED lights plugged into the back of the servo motors on all my machines so when the motor power switch is in the "ON" position the LED light is also ON to remind me to turn the servo off.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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