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BadKarma

Glue substitute.

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Since I'm homebound for the time being, and Springfield Leather is over 40 miles away, is there an acceptable assembly glue I can get at Menards or Lowes? Is Weldwood Contact Cement good enough?

Thanks folks.

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Why not order glue from SLC's website? They usually ship small things like that pretty quickly. 

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Weldwood contact cement is all I have used for 20+ years . . . never had a problem with it.

Just know that it is a little "airy" . . . 

I usually coat both pieces and then take them to the garage or something to let the glue dry and leave the fumes out there.

Buy the quart can . . . have your wife save you a glass jelly jar . . . put some in the jelly jar . . . seal up the quart can . . . use it out of the jar . . . when it gets half empty . . . fill it again.

That's my procedure . . . holsters, belts, sheaths, mag carriers . . . works for all them things.

May God bless,

Dwight

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I am the same as Dwight.  I tried using the water based Renia contact cement since it did not have the fumes and I could use it in the house but I had trouble with getting the same finish on the edges as I do with the Weldwood.

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1 hour ago, BadKarma said:

Since I'm homebound for the time being, and Springfield Leather is over 40 miles away, is there an acceptable assembly glue I can get at Menards or Lowes? Is Weldwood Contact Cement good enough?

Thanks folks.

yes it is. Its all i use.

 

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It is the best to use for joining leather. It's the only glue 85 percent of the USA leather workers use. There are others that use rubber cement but that has a weak hold. Buy it in quart cans, anything smaller will be too costly. 

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Wellwood and Barge both work great. Amazon sells both for about a dollar difference for a quart.

Use both in a well ventilated area

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Thanks folks. I guess a little explanation is in order. I'm a disabled Navy Veteran and living alone. I've tried ordering liquid before but have never had good luck. Had a quart of CLP pop open and ruined a whole order of cleaning supplies. I guess I'm a little gun why so to speak.

 

But I am planning a trip to SLC soon, so I just may wait.

Thanks everyone.

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I'm like Dwight...Wellwood RED CAN (WRC)...the smelly stuff. Dating back to my years of working in cabinet shops, using it with laminate tops and wood veneer, I have lots of experience with it and very satisfied with the results. When we started this leather venture and found that most crafters here use it (or something very similar, chemically speaking), I found no need to "fix what wasn't broken", to use the old term. The plus side is that I can get it at my local Ace, Lowes or Home Depot in quarts & gallons. I have experimented with Titebond III and Gorilla Brand Wood Glue (not their original glue that requires dampening the surface and clamping for 1-2hrs)...results were pretty decent but definitely NOT as convenient as WRC.

Like others on here I suspect, I've also developed the habit of keeping my jelly, pickle & olive jars...they are great for these kind of uses (glues, custom stain batches, etc).

DD

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5 hours ago, Hildebrand said:

I am the same as Dwight.  I tried using the water based Renia contact cement since it did not have the fumes and I could use it in the house but I had trouble with getting the same finish on the edges as I do with the Weldwood.

I'm definitely in the minority here. I only use water-based contact cements like Aquilim 315 and EcoWeld. I find them much easier to work with and plenty strong enough . . .  though I'm using them to glue items that eventually get stitched anyway. The high-VOC glues quickly give me headaches, and I don't like their 'stringiness". Once you get to finishing your edges, rub them with a rubber cement eraser, sanding belt cleaner, or even a piece of denim. It will catch all the tiny gummed-up fibers and make your edges smoother.

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an aside; to kill glue smells, get some large fresh onions and cut in 1/2 or 1/4s and leave them out in your work area. Cut onions will also kill smells from fresh paint, put near the painted item. They also kill smells in the fridge and refresh it. You can leave the onions until they start to dry out or replace sooner. You can still use the onions for eating and cooking afterwards

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I'll put in a plug for PVA glue (Elmer's white glue).   It is water soluble and doesn't interfere with burnishing edges of glued projects.  It also allows realignment of pieces before the glue dries when needed.  I use contact cement for most projects, but the white glue can be useful at times. 

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