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Posted
24 minutes ago, frontboot said:

I managed to get them unstuck, but now I'm trying to figure out where to buy replacement tubes that aren't threaded. This is what I get for trying to go cheap.

 

I think your S.O.L. my friend. 

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

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Posted
1 hour ago, frontboot said:

I managed to get them unstuck, but now I'm trying to figure out where to buy replacement tubes that aren't threaded. This is what I get for trying to go cheap.

 

Ooo, yea, finding press in tubes won't be easy.  In fact those probably were not designed to be replaced, which is why it took so much effort to get them out.

Regards,

Littlef

Littlef - YouTube

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Posted

It's great that you're working to restore the old WM Johnson rotary hole punch! Dealing with rusted and stuck parts can be challenging, but there are a few additional steps you can take to try and loosen the tubes. First, consider using a penetrating oil like PB Blaster or WD-40 and allowing it to penetrate for a longer period, even up to a week, occasionally tapping the tubes lightly to help the oil work its way in. You could also try a mixture of vinegar and baking soda as a natural rust-removing solution – apply it to the rusted areas, let it sit for a while, and then gently attempt to twist the tubes out. If these methods don't work, you might want to visit the official website of the National Park Service's Conserve O Grams (https://www.nps.gov/museum/publications/conserveogram/cons_toc.html), a resource that provides practical instructions for conserving various types of artifacts. While not directly related to your rotary hole punch, these guidelines offer valuable insights into dealing with rusted and stuck objects and could help you find the right approach. Remember to be patient and use gentle methods to avoid damaging the antique tool during the restoration process.

This website is helpful in checking someone's credential if in case you decided to hire someone who can do this task for you: https://backgroundcheckrepair.org/background-check-connecticut/

Posted

Ya went cheap the first time and ya keep feeding that same cheap habit by spending good money after bad. Now take the busted one and trash it, then go find some decent hole makers (not a rotary) and enjoy life

Doc Reaper

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Posted
17 hours ago, frontboot said:

I managed to get them unstuck, but now I'm trying to figure out where to buy replacement tubes that aren't threaded. This is what I get for trying to go cheap.

If you are insistent on doing this; buy a new rotary hole punch of reasonable quality and take the punch tubes out of that and put into the old one

You'll be ending up with a 'Triggers Broom' though

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

Posted
On 8/28/2023 at 2:45 PM, frontboot said:

After some aggressive words and actions, one of the tubes popped out revealing the fact the tubes and cylinder are not threaded

I've done that sort of thing a few times. I'd concur, toss it. Consider the cost tuition in your leather crafting education and buy something else.

Or, maybe you just like fixing things, which I understand. It's not always about the cost.

Is that brand something special?

“Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.”
- Voltaire

“Republics decline into democracies and democracies degenerate into despotisms.”
- Aristotle

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Posted
4 hours ago, fredk said:

If you are insistent on doing this; buy a new rotary hole punch of reasonable quality and take the punch tubes out of that and put into the old one

You'll be ending up with a 'Triggers Broom' though

Brilliant! Unlike my old hole puncher (which is my new paperweight) , that expression needs to be preserved and handed down through the next generations.

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Posted

Thanks for all the input, folks. What I thought would be a simple project to fix up an old set of hole punchers turned out to be a lesson in assuming that modern parts would fit an old tool. Looks like I'm the old tool now.

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Posted

I'm a bit perplexed by the suggestion to use a mix of vinegar and baking soda - vinegar is an acid, baking soda is an alkali so they would neutralise each other when mixed. What would be the point of applying the mix to anything (might as well use water)?:dunno:

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

Posted
15 hours ago, dikman said:

I'm a bit perplexed by the suggestion to use a mix of vinegar and baking soda - vinegar is an acid, baking soda is an alkali so they would neutralise each other when mixed. What would be the point of applying the mix to anything (might as well use water)?:dunno:

Agreed!  I see so many "ideas" posted here and there about the best household cleaner, the best glass cleaner, etc. that say use vinegar and baking soda.  Even for clothes washing!  Would be smarter to use straight vinegar, then neutralize with baking soda after if there is any risk of the vinegar continuing to cause corrosion after it has dried.

I think that because it foams up they think vinegar and baking soda are doing a great job!!

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