Question about leather stiffener

[DeWayne Hayes]

I understand Weaver sells a liquid leather stiffener.  If anyone has used this, I have a couple questions. 

I want to stiffen the thumb-break portion of a leather pistol holster - just the thumb break tab, I don't want to stiffen the whole holster. 

Can I apply this stiffener after wet molding but before spraying my pro dye? In other words, will the stiffener affect the color of either the raw veg-tan or once dyed? Will it leave a stain-looking line between that area and the rest of the holster? 

Thanks for any experience you can share. 

DeWayne

Edited December 30, 2023 by DeWayne Hayes

[Bert03241]

wouldn't casing the thumb break do the same thing? just a thought

[DeWayne Hayes]

I wet mold the entire holster - isn't that the same as casing?  I've never 'cased' specifically, as I don't tool. 

Please educate me if I don't understand casing. 

[fredk]

If you soak the thumb-break in hot water then dry it quickly with heat it will go hard. But it will also shrink so you need to make it over-size and cut it down to size for fitting, and you would need to dye it first

[TomE]

Check out stearic acid (long chain fatty acid) that is used to stiffen leather.  I think you could apply it in one spot and heat the leather to absorb the SA.  Jason Timmermans wrote an article "Custom Hardened Leather Arch Supports" in the July/August 2022 issue of Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal.  He also wrote about his "X1 hardening technique" in the Nov/Dec issue of 2019 (I don't have that issue). The Journal's online store sells back issues.

[chuck123wapati]

a real heavy dousing of a good acrylic sealer may work you might test it out to see if it does what you want.

[Sinbad395]

Have you thought about these?   Sandwich in leather--pre drilled holes for snaps or rivets    https://tandyleather.com/products/thumb-break-stiffener-10-pack

[DeWayne Hayes]

I have, and actually fabricated one of those myself using a spark plug feeler gauge as a metal piece, but I applied it on the exterior, not inside the layers. Reason being, I don't set my female snap until the holster is dry from wet molding as I find the strap often shrinks when drying, so if I set both ends of the snap too soon, I can have problems when the holster is dried out.  If I used one of those stiffeners "inside", I'd be committed to a snap position. 

[chiefjason]

4 hours ago, DeWayne Hayes said:

I have, and actually fabricated one of those myself using a spark plug feeler gauge as a metal piece, but I applied it on the exterior, not inside the layers. Reason being, I don't set my female snap until the holster is dry from wet molding as I find the strap often shrinks when drying, so if I set both ends of the snap too soon, I can have problems when the holster is dried out.  If I used one of those stiffeners "inside", I'd be committed to a snap position. 

 

Position, yes.  Strap length, no.  Set the male snap last.  It's a bit of mental annoyance doing the most important thing last and possibly screwing it up.  But that's what I do.  Cut the strap long.  Mark the hole.  Set the snap.  Trim the strap.  Ship it.  

My current one I did set the female snap in the thumb break before assembling the holster.  Have not finished it but was certainly easier than setting it after it's constructed.  FYI, I've been known to do things backwards but it all works out in the end.  lol

[Dwight]

Nothing you will do to the leather will guarantee you as good and long lasting results for a thumb break . . . as will one of the little Tandy stiffeners.

If you are using double leather for your holster . . . sandwich it . . . if only single layer . . . put it on the back side toward the wearer . . . away from the weapon.

Can't tell you how many of these I've done . . . so far no problems.  And I KNOW there would have been sooner or later having done it another way.

May God bless,

Dwight