When to apply antique to tooled holster

[Yellowhousejake]

Howdy folks,

I have been making my own holsters for a while and decided to try tooling for a change. I am confused because I see so many blogs where they apply the antique to leather that is not a project, or show a finished project with antique already applied. I normally cut, trim, dye, sew, form, then finish the edges. When do I apply the antique? I am thinking I should do it right after I dye as the holster would be easier to work with when it is flat.

Will the antique cause problems working with the leather to sew and form?

Will the antique block the water when casing the leather to form (lightly form, not a full vacuum form)?

Thanks,

DAve

[DieselTech]

Don Gonzales has a pretty good tutorial on antiquing. Lol it will be quicker than me trying to explain it. 

It can be done numerous ways thou. 

[bladegrinder]

I just started antiquing my holsters. I vacuum form them so when they go in to the vacuum bag their soaked. I wait until the holster is completely finished then apply a coat of tan coat, when that's dry I apply the antique. this way you have to be careful of where it goes. I usually use white stitching so I put blue tape over the stitching and carefully apply the antique where I want it and wipe it off carefully too.

later when it's FULLY dry I apply another coat of tan coat. I use Resolene on all my holsters and knife sheaths and I put a final coat of that on with an air brush.

[Thadrick]

 Im not an expert by any means but what works for me is like this.

 I cut my leather, and tool, Then I dye and let dry.

 Antique then buff to the finished color and the amount of desired antique 

 The antique I use is water soluble so I apply resoline over everything at this point. Several coats starting with a first thin coat ( I dont have a sprayer) two more coats to be sure resoline has gotten into every little tool mark.

 Then I "line" my leather on the inside using another layer of dyed veg tanned leather.

 When Im ready to mold, I attempt to only wet the "inside layer" of leather. Resoline is somewhat water resistant so the antiquing doesnt wash away however, its only "water resistant" not water proof so I just use a wet sponge to wet the inside layer of leather. Once the inside layer is wet, then I fold the holster and sew it up.  

After I sew, Then I re-wet the inside and mold. ( I dont have a vacuume system so I kneed it to my desire being careful not to damage the tooling)

 Let dry and seal the inside leather and put another coat of resoling over the outside

 Like I say, Im no expert and, Thats the reason I joined this site because I want to learn about this kind of stuff. Im only saying what has been working for me.

 

I have tried antiquing after the leather was sealed but I must not be doing it right because I wasnt happy with the results. 

[BigBore]

My method…

tool, dye(if desired), tan kote, antique, tan kote

Letting each step dry completely before moving on to the next step. 
 

[Yellowhousejake]

All good info, thank you. I am also concerned about the antique getting into the stitching and I was afraid just taping it off would leave a line where the antique did not get applied. I didn't think about putting my resoline on before I antiqued.

Here is a picture of the holster I made earlier. I want to do that same holster for a snubbie King Cobra but move the maker stamp to the reinforce and basketweave the holster body.

DAve

 

 

[Mablung]

For the antiquing not to stain the whole piece, some kind of resist must be applied first (Resolene or something similar) so that the antiquing only stays in the crevices of the tooling. Of course, if you want the antique to also stain the whole thing, then rub it over the whole piece (I did a notebook cover for my dad in that manner). I also do it after I dye and the dye dries. I do my stitching last on most things. 

[Hags]

Check out Road agent leather work on you tube. Shows the process pretty well. He's a member here as well.

[Mablung]

Something else to consider that some members do is use a Sharpie fine point pen to mark in the tooling crevices, without resisting first. Others hate antique paste and will use small paintbrushes to contrast dye the foreground and background (more relevant in floral tooling and similar tooling work, as opposed to figure carving or something like basketweave stamping). I haven’t tried either of those techniques myself but figured I would mention them, since no one else has yet. When one would do each one will depend on the technique chosen. In either case, I would want to have prepared the leather for stitching but not yet stitched, to allow for application of the finishing topcoat before stitching. 

[JLSleather]

7 hours ago, Yellowhousejake said:

... concerned about the antique getting into the stitching ...want to do that same holster for a ... basketweave the holster body.

DAve

I wouldn't antique a basket stamped leather anything.  But then, I don't antique anything (save about twice where somebody threatened me with money if I would do that to the project, against my recommendation).

If the moisture content of the leather is right, the burnish of the leather negates the need for ant-streak

That said, IF a guy was insistent on that goop, considering that type of holster, I would then grudgingly recommend ...

• Cut out leather
• Stamp
• Line (if used)
• Sew
• Wet form
• Allow to dry completely.
• Oil if desired
• Ant-streak, using a fingertip
• TanKote or other top finish (I use resolene sometimes, sparingly)

 

 

 

[Mablung]

1 hour ago, JLSleather said:

I wouldn't antique a basket stamped leather anything.  But then, I don't antique anything (save about twice where somebody threatened me with money if I would do that to the project, against my recommendation).

If the moisture content of the leather is right, the burnish of the leather negates the need for ant-streak

That said, IF a guy was insistent on that goop, considering that type of holster, I would then grudgingly recommend ...

• Cut out leather
• Stamp
• Line (if used)
• Sew
• Wet form
• Allow to dry completely.
• Oil if desired
• Ant-streak, using a fingertip
• TanKote or other top finish (I use resolene sometimes, sparingly)

 

 

 

“Ant-streak”. I like that. 

[Yellowhousejake]

I am not certain I will like the antique either. But, I will try it and see.

 

DAve