Neatsfoot Oil BEFORE Dye??

[MtlBiker]

I just saw the latest Sailrite how-to project... just a simple waxed canvas and cordura dopp bag, with leather accents.  For all the leather accents they said to apply Neatsfoot oil BEFORE the Fiebings Dye.  That surprised me as I'd always thought you apply the oil (if not using a different product) after dying the leather.  Is doing it their way common?

[billybopp]

12 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

I just saw the latest Sailrite how-to project... just a simple waxed canvas and cordura dopp bag, with leather accents.  For all the leather accents they said to apply Neatsfoot oil BEFORE the Fiebings Dye.  That surprised me as I'd always thought you apply the oil (if not using a different product) after dying the leather.  Is doing it their way common?

It's not uncommon to add a very light coat of NFO before dying.  Folks say that it helps even out the dye when applied.  Some will even mix NFO and dye.  I haven't tried either and can't attest to whether it works or not.

- Bill

[Northmount]

Moved to Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.

 

[kgg]

51 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

For all the leather accents they said to apply Neatsfoot oil BEFORE the Fiebings Dye. 

My limited experience is using a spray gun for dying. First we dyed allowing it to penetrate into the leather then oiling. Once you get it to the shade you want let it dry and then oil. Oiling first I think would only provide another barrier to the dye.

Just my experience,

kgg

Edited March 28 by kgg

[Dwight]

A few years back I was having trouble with my light tan dyes . . . not being even . . . especially saddle tan.

I don't recall the impetus that moved me to try oiling first . . . I did . . . have NEVER had another problem like that since.

I use a cheap pig hair brush from Harbor freight . . . put on a very light coat . . . just enough to make it look wet . . . 

Let it "dry" for 24 hours . . . the dye goes on perfect . . . every time.

I don't always oil for black . . . it depends on the leather . . . 

But if it is anything other than black . . . it ALWAYS gets oiled first.

That is for all my holsters . . . belts . . . sheaths . . . and gun cases . . . which is mainly what I do.

May God bless,

Dwight

[bladegrinder]

18 minutes ago, Dwight said:

A few years back I was having trouble with my light tan dyes . . . not being even . . . especially saddle tan.

I don't recall the impetus that moved me to try oiling first . . . I did . . . have NEVER had another problem like that since.

I use a cheap pig hair brush from Harbor freight . . . put on a very light coat . . . just enough to make it look wet . . . 

Let it "dry" for 24 hours . . . the dye goes on perfect . . . every time.

I don't always oil for black . . . it depends on the leather . . . 

But if it is anything other than black . . . it ALWAYS gets oiled first.

That is for all my holsters . . . belts . . . sheaths . . . and gun cases . . . which is mainly what I do.

May God bless,

Dwight

Same here, I always use oil. I put it on then dye the next day.

[MtlBiker]

@kgg @Dwight and @bladegrinder - Thanks for your comments.  I forgot to check last night when I got home, what the product is that I've been using for leather prep before applying dye, but it was some commercial product.  Used to de-glaze the leather and remove contaminants.  Until now, I never thought of using NFO before dyeing.  I'm going to have to give it a try.  Thank you all.

[Dwight]

10 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

@kgg @Dwight and @bladegrinder - Thanks for your comments.  I forgot to check last night when I got home, what the product is that I've been using for leather prep before applying dye, but it was some commercial product.  Used to de-glaze the leather and remove contaminants.  Until now, I never thought of using NFO before dyeing.  I'm going to have to give it a try.  Thank you all.

Just one quick note . . . when you go for example to Tandy's or other leather shops . . . the cheap stuff will be Neatsfoot oil "compound" . . . which is a conglomerate of oils.

Buy the pure neatsfoot oil . . . it's a bit more expensive . . . but it's the good stuff . . . 

May God bless,

Dwight

[GatoGordo]

Just a reminder. If you do use neatsfoot oil, check at your local feed store. They also sell Fiebing's 100% Pure Neatsfoot Oil, but often at a lower price than the leather supply store.

[Chipster99]

I buy Fiebings 100% Pure Neatsfoot Oil at Tractor Supply. Olive oil also works fine and you can get that at any grocery store. And I also agree with Dwight - oil then dye.