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Posted (edited)

So I was waiting for leather to dry a little and thought I would fiddle with this.

 The removed material at the bottom needs to be the diameter of the cartridge (in this case .429" -44 mag)  The oval punch should be close to that plus the thickness of the leather doubled (.429 + leather doubled)  The stitching down the case wall needs to be measured with a couple strait edges holding the leather and bullet down to a flat surface. In my attempt, my punched hole is a little too long. The stitching holes I just eyeballed the radious going under the bullet. 

 Knowing these measurements I think I could build a pattern.

Then the stitching on the back piece I think would be like a normal piece except the radioused part under the bullet might need to be punched during assembly?

On a bottle neck case,  Ill probably have to work that out but I think the oval hole might need to be  higher?

1000001181.jpg

Edited by Thadrick
  • Members
Posted

I wonder if that slit Bruce mentions is actually the result of a narrow sliver of leather being removed? If that was done top and bottom it would allow the leather to be pushed together to bulge up a bit, then stitched and finally wet formed.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

  • Members
Posted

 Not exactly the same but kinda the same idea.

 I have a couple other projects going on and then Ill see if I can figure out something like this for my 7 SAUM.

1000001182.jpg

  • Members
Posted
  • Members
Posted

That would be very easy duplicated on a laser engraver . . . 

And using some oddball scrap leather . . . shouldn't take over 3 or 4 tries to get the first pattern done for it.

I don't need any such cartridge holder . . . but if I did . . . I think I would like that pattern . . . especially if I were using something bottle necked like a .308 / 30-30 /  30-06 or so.  Would be a good deal for a deer hunter . . . maybe even incorporated in a butt stock cheek weld riser.

Shouldn't be too hard to do . . .  even sew the thing on a big rig machine like a Cowboy 4500

May God bless, 

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

  • CFM
Posted

Good job my friend, you got it!!! I've never had luck carrying tapered cartridges in a buttstock type holder so I quit even trying open type holders of any kind. You will have to let me know how it works on the trail.

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

Posted

Wow, very nice and impressive work. Tweak the dimensions and this should work for any cartridge.

“Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.”
- Voltaire

“Republics decline into democracies and democracies degenerate into despotisms.”
- Aristotle

  • Members
Posted
1 hour ago, chuck123wapati said:

Good job my friend, you got it!!! I've never had luck carrying tapered cartridges in a buttstock type holder so I quit even trying open type holders of any kind. You will have to let me know how it works on the trail.

Me neither, I have however had luck carrying them open on a sling (two side by side lengthwise).  Its also something that might be able to incorporate into a scabbard. Putting them on a butt stock causes a lot of snagging. 

  • Members
Posted
31 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

Wow, very nice and impressive work. Tweak the dimensions and this should work for any cartridge.

Thank you.  Should be able to improve the looks with a little more time than an hour also? Winters coming so maybe lots of time to expand on the idea.

  • Members
Posted (edited)

Long ago I used to make Shotgun shell belts (20ga only) and I did a similar thing.   On mine the loop was essentially "closed" and the shell had a stop of sorts that way. The bottom looks pretty similar, although with 2 slits showing per shell rather than your 1.   What I used was a die that cut a piece for 5 shells at a time and stitched them to the belts.  Usually a total of 4-6 and then I would stitch a flap that would cover the 6 and secure with a stud when folded down over.  Basically fully enclosed from the elements.   I got the pattern idea from a Russian shell belt 20 or 30 years ago.

If I stop at my old shop sometime soon I'll take a photo. There's a 30 year old prototype still hanging on the wall....!!!

 

EDIT:

I guess I have the die that I used here at the new place:

 

P1020621.JPG

Edited by Cumberland Highpower

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