When u design a new holster pattern

[rccolt45]

Hi guys,
 

when you design a new holster pattern and are ready to build the first prototype what are you using leather wise? I have always used what I have laying around but I noticed if it’s not the correct weight leather it throws of the stichlines. I have read some people use bellies of foam what’s the best way to go?

[Thadrick]

I use the leather I would normally use but I don't spend any time with carving it. A holster uses very little leather, maybe $30?  If it's a failure, I throw it away and if it's good to go then I have a knock around holster for camping and such.

[chuck123wapati]

Except I go for it all the way, tooling and finishing to boot, if it's good first time around that a win, if it's not then it's a lot of good practice for the whole project.  I usuallypractice my tooling and finishing a couple of times on scrap beforehand to help make that good first try.

Edited December 25, 2025 by chuck123wapati

[AlZilla]

I like 1/8th" craft foam. It's about the thickness of 8 ounce leather and gives me a good idea how things are going to align and fit together. I don't sew anything or make a full prototype. 

Once I get it satisfactory, I have a craft foam pattern.

[Dwight]

I use either marine grade vinyl ( about 25 bucks for a piece that is 36 x 48 . . . 

OR . . . I use yellow manila folder stock.  

The vinyl gives me a really good shot at what I need . . . and is best for some unique do dad . . . but in the end I use the cut piece of leather to mark out and cut the pattern on manila folder stock for future reference.

I always make the first cut 1/2 inch wide in all directions . . . and trim as needed.  It is very seldom that 1/2 inch margin doesn't do the trick.

May God bless,

Dwight

[JLSleather]

Use the SAME leather you'll be making the finished holsters with.  Different leather behaves differently... and you have already found out that some leather works better than others.  
Belly leather has some purpose, I suppose (I think the saddle boys and girls use it here and there), but it's not for holsters, belts, or anything requiring firm leather or strength.

Once you know the pattern is close and worth a "test" piece, it wouldn't hurt to use a piece of the same leather where there's a cosmetic blemish you wouldnt want to put in the finished goods, but it absolutely should be from GOOD leather, that which you would normally use.  

If you've read some of my stuff on here, you already know I might often take a holster from teh shoulder leather and make the accompanying belt from the back section of the SAME hide (texture is the same, takes dye the same way, etc...).

[TonyV]

When I built my 1st holster 25 years ago, I simply bought a likely-lookin' piece of leather.  I didn't know belly from butt. I've made better holsters from better leather since then, but I still use that old Slim Jim for my '58 Rem NMA clone.  I think that old piece I bought was a relatively firm piece of belly, perhaps the upper portion and I've made sheaths and phone cases with it, too. 

Belly ain't all bad.  It's good for learning.

Edited 14 hours ago by TonyV

[Cumberland Highpower]

Well when you say "design" a new holster I'll answer from my experience. 

What I generally do, is make a couple samples without the stitching.  Glued, dampened and worked/boned/formed etc.   When it dries, I draw on the formed holster the stitch lines and make patterns to match the stitching.  Either by working it out directly from the unstitched molded holster, or by cutting it apart on the stitch lines and making stitching templates/patterns from the pieces.   After I have my patterns I work up a couple extra holsters and mark stitch lines from these patterns and give it a test as a prototype.

If you plan to make multiples or big runs of holsters it's not much of an investment and you can place your stitching very elegantly on the finished products.

Leather can stretch in odd ways when you bone it over a mold/gun.  Sometimes it's hard to work out where the stitching would actually go, without actually molding it first.

[Samalan]

Do all the research, then use really good leather, don't practice, do the job the best you can. Learn from your mistakes and do better. 

[Dwight]

I have gotten a reputation as the "odd ball" holster maker.  

Made an appendix carry holster for a double barreled derringer . . . made a double shoulder holster rig that doubles also as a pair of suspenders . . . made a double carry vest for notebooks / pencils / other oddball stuff / could carry a small auto pistol in it . . . made one to carry a long barreled .22 auto with a large scope mounted on top.

And that just scratches the surface of my shenanigans.

I simply make a decision that "this" holster will carry this weight / in this location / so it needs to be ______thick. 

I cut a piece that I know will be 1/2 inch to 1 inch too wide and too long along sides . . . get that dude sloppy wet . . . thumb mold to start with . . . then stick it on the vacuum former.  Depending on how hard I do or do not want this . . . I may stick it in the hot box for hardening thru heat.  Either way it then gets dried.

Come back within 48 hours after the above . . . cut out what I need . . . put a back on it . . . glue / trim / sew / sand /  and finish.

I have more back patterns than I have for the fronts.

May God bless,

Dwight