scooby Report post Posted May 25, 2009 I have toyed with buying a strap cutter to cut belts blanks for some time but have always baulked at the cost. I was thinking about making one from scratch but then I had one of those sparks of inspiration… Take one mortise marking tool from the local market tool store I removed the marking pin by knocking through and then used a claw hammer to remove it being careful not to mark the main 'bar' as this is what the leather will eventually ride on. With a very fine blade (junior hacksaw) I cut a slot for the blade from the left hand side as I am right handed – this means that when cutting you will be pushing the blade into the body. I then drilled a pilot hole to take my locking screw (the smallest I had) of which once I had screwed it in once to cut a thread I removed an files the point off to give a flat end to bite into the blade better. The blade is one from my skiver / thong cutting tool but you could use a Stanley blade snapped in half. With the blade in place the screw is tightened to hold it in place And finally a shot of it in use… - you must be wary of the exposed blade but that is the same as a number of models in Stohlmans book So there you have it! - a strap cutter on a budget! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted May 25, 2009 Fine idea. Next time you remove the set screw, pour thin superglue down the threads and let it dry. Your threads will last a good bit longer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted May 25, 2009 Great idea there! We're all looking for ways to save some coins. There's only one thing I wonder about with this modification: It looks like the blade slot is cut at a slight angle, and I'm concerned that this would cause the leather to be pulled off line by the blade. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted May 26, 2009 Everybody probably already knows this, but just in case someone doesn't know.....on a drawknife, the blade is only sharpened on one side, so that the blade forces the leather into the knife and holds it tight against the gauge. If you're drawknife lets leather drift out from the gauge, the blade probably doesn't have enough angle on it. Just a little tip..... Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArtS Report post Posted May 26, 2009 Is the mortise tool cheaper than a Tandy Strap cutter that is $14.99? Thanks, Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scooby Report post Posted May 26, 2009 Fine idea. Next time you remove the set screw, pour thin superglue down the threads and let it dry. Your threads will last a good bit longer. Good idea! - will do thanks Great idea there! We're all looking for ways to save some coins.There's only one thing I wonder about with this modification: It looks like the blade slot is cut at a slight angle, and I'm concerned that this would cause the leather to be pulled off line by the blade. I think it is more an issue of poor photo skills to be honest - it seems to cut well and dosn't drift as far as I can tell Is the mortise tool cheaper than a Tandy Strap cutter that is $14.99?Thanks, Art Well the Tandy tool is £17 plus delivery here and the mortice tool was £4 - I thought if it didn't work I could always I could always chop off the end and add the pin back again and have another (albeit slightly shorter) mortice tool thanks for the kind comments peeps! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rhall Report post Posted May 26, 2009 Problem with that exposed blade,I have enough of a time with the Safest of tools,nic name is old three fingers...LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Scarbrough Report post Posted February 24, 2016 I have toyed with buying a strap cutter to cut belts blanks for some time but have always baulked at the cost. I was thinking about making one from scratch but then I had one of those sparks of inspiration… Take one mortise marking tool from the local market tool store I removed the marking pin by knocking through and then used a claw hammer to remove it being careful not to mark the main 'bar' as this is what the leather will eventually ride on. With a very fine blade (junior hacksaw) I cut a slot for the blade from the left hand side as I am right handed – this means that when cutting you will be pushing the blade into the body. I then drilled a pilot hole to take my locking screw (the smallest I had) of which once I had screwed it in once to cut a thread I removed an files the point off to give a flat end to bite into the blade better. The blade is one from my skiver / thong cutting tool but you could use a Stanley blade snapped in half. With the blade in place the screw is tightened to hold it in place And finally a shot of it in use… - you must be wary of the exposed blade but that is the same as a number of models in Stohlmans book So there you have it! - a strap cutter on a budget! I intend to use your ideas, but with one modification: I plan to cant the blade to cut leather at a 45 degree angle so I can use in for boxes and many other things that empoy the box stitch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragonhawke Report post Posted February 25, 2016 sounds like a good tutorial, but without the photos for context..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted February 27, 2016 Like ^^^^^^^^ he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^ pictures just don't show up............ May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Scarbrough Report post Posted March 5, 2016 I have toyed with buying a strap cutter to cut belts blanks for some time but have always baulked at the cost. I was thinking about making one from scratch but then I had one of those sparks of inspiration… Take one mortise marking tool from the local market tool store I removed the marking pin by knocking through and then used a claw hammer to remove it being careful not to mark the main 'bar' as this is what the leather will eventually ride on. With a very fine blade (junior hacksaw) I cut a slot for the blade from the left hand side as I am right handed – this means that when cutting you will be pushing the blade into the body. I then drilled a pilot hole to take my locking screw (the smallest I had) of which once I had screwed it in once to cut a thread I removed an files the point off to give a flat end to bite into the blade better. The blade is one from my skiver / thong cutting tool but you could use a Stanley blade snapped in half. With the blade in place the screw is tightened to hold it in place And finally a shot of it in use… - you must be wary of the exposed blade but that is the same as a number of models in Stohlmans book So there you have it! - a strap cutter on a budget! Where do you go to by the mortise thing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TZBrown Report post Posted March 6, 2016 (edited) http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/145465/ROSEWOOD-CUTTING-GAUGE.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAiApOq2BRDoo8SVjZHV7TkSJABLe2iDL6YuPIitCc3e5GnnZ4olqAPfSKCCcs1RQast48RGDxoCQf_w_wcB others are available I am sure but that is a place to start Edited March 6, 2016 by TZBrown Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roq Report post Posted March 7, 2016 sounds like a good tutorial, but without the photos for context..... Like ^^^^^^^^ he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^ pictures just don't show up............ May God bless, Dwight It is a 7 yr old post, shhh don't tell anyone. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
