MADMAX22 Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 I guess I shouldnt say its not worth the $200 they are asking, it all depends on what people are willing to pay and that is a nice looking one. Also what people are intending to use it for. I am just use to seeing them cheaper but they probably arent in as good a shape. Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted October 26, 2016 Moderator Report Posted October 26, 2016 If the motor is attached to a bracket on the back and connected by a belt, it is a 15-90. If the machine has a pod motor built into it, it is a 15-91 Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members machinehead Posted October 26, 2016 Members Report Posted October 26, 2016 19 hours ago, cdthayer said: I don’t know why, but I don’t care much for any of the 15s for some reason. Hey CD, I have a couple of industrial 15 class machines that are really good for light leather. Keep your eyes peeled for them when you see a 15; you might find a gem. Quote
Members machinehead Posted October 26, 2016 Members Report Posted October 26, 2016 39 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said: If the motor is attached to a bracket on the back and connected by a belt, it is a 15-90. If the machine has a pod motor built into it, it is a 15-91 What Wiz said. Quote
Members cdthayer Posted October 26, 2016 Members Report Posted October 26, 2016 7 hours ago, machinehead said: have a couple of industrial 15 class machines that are really good for light leather I don’t consider any of the 15 machines as industrial, but they’re not bad for really light leather work. I fixed up my only Singer 15-30 with a handcrank for a friend of mine to use for sewing thin leather wallet interiors, and it works great for that. I’ve got a bunch of beater 15s on hand, but I don’t ever do anything with them (2 15K80, a 15-88, 2 15-90, and 9 15-91s). Few if any of them are “pretty”, and the majority of the 15-91s need to be rewired. I may eventually do something with the 80s and 88 since they have spoked balance wheels on them, but I’ve been into hand or foot-powered machines for the last few years, and don’t want to do the electrical work on the 91s anymore. This area is saturated with 15-91s and 201-2s (I’ve got 4 of those too), so there isn’t much call for them locally for any kind of sewing. I see on Craig’s List and eBay a guy down in north Texas converting 15-91 and 201-2 machines into handcranks with his own design of a crank to use for light leather work. They’re a one-to-one crank ratio per stitch like some folks don’t care for, but for small light leather work, I can see them being very productive machines. I have several of my machines set up to handcrank on a 1-to-1 ratio, including walking foot machines, and for the mending and repairs that I do, they work just fine. CD in Oklahoma Quote "I sew, I sew, so it's off to work I go....." My sewing machines:Adler 205-370 (Hand Crank), Adler 205-64 (Hand Crank), Consew 226 (Clutch/Speed Reducer), Singer 111G156 (Hand Crank or Clutch), Singer 111W153 (Clutch), Singer 20U33 (Clutch), Singer 78-3 Needlefeed (Treadle), Singer 20U (Treadle), Singer 29K70 (x2) (Both Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 96-40 w/Darning Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 w/Roller Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 (Hand Crank), Singer 16-41 (Treadle), Singer 66-1 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 201K4 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 216G Zigzag (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 319W (Treadle)
Members Darren Brosowski Posted October 30, 2016 Members Report Posted October 30, 2016 On 27/10/2016 at 10:58 AM, cdthayer said: I don’t consider any of the 15 machines as industrial, but they’re not bad for really light leather work. I fixed up my only Singer 15-30 with a handcrank for a friend of mine to use for sewing thin leather wallet interiors, and it works great for that. I’ve got a bunch of beater 15s on hand, but I don’t ever do anything with them (2 15K80, a 15-88, 2 15-90, and 9 15-91s). Few if any of them are “pretty”, and the majority of the 15-91s need to be rewired. I may eventually do something with the 80s and 88 since they have spoked balance wheels on them, but I’ve been into hand or foot-powered machines for the last few years, and don’t want to do the electrical work on the 91s anymore. This area is saturated with 15-91s and 201-2s (I’ve got 4 of those too), so there isn’t much call for them locally for any kind of sewing. I see on Craig’s List and eBay a guy down in north Texas converting 15-91 and 201-2 machines into handcranks with his own design of a crank to use for light leather work. They’re a one-to-one crank ratio per stitch like some folks don’t care for, but for small light leather work, I can see them being very productive machines. I have several of my machines set up to handcrank on a 1-to-1 ratio, including walking foot machines, and for the mending and repairs that I do, they work just fine. CD in Oklahoma Singer did build Industrial versions of the 15 class. The internals of the 15 class are also used on the 16, 17, 18 and 19 class machines which are all "industrial". Quote
Members cdthayer Posted October 30, 2016 Members Report Posted October 30, 2016 4 hours ago, Darren Brosowski said: Singer did build Industrial versions of the 15 class. Oops! You are correct. I should have said “I don’t consider any of my 15 machines as industrial, but they’re not bad for really light leather work.” Sorry, I was thinking of the common household-use 15s when I made that statement. CD in Oklahoma Quote "I sew, I sew, so it's off to work I go....." My sewing machines:Adler 205-370 (Hand Crank), Adler 205-64 (Hand Crank), Consew 226 (Clutch/Speed Reducer), Singer 111G156 (Hand Crank or Clutch), Singer 111W153 (Clutch), Singer 20U33 (Clutch), Singer 78-3 Needlefeed (Treadle), Singer 20U (Treadle), Singer 29K70 (x2) (Both Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 96-40 w/Darning Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 w/Roller Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 (Hand Crank), Singer 16-41 (Treadle), Singer 66-1 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 201K4 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 216G Zigzag (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 319W (Treadle)
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted November 15, 2016 Moderator Report Posted November 15, 2016 1 hour ago, Sticks said: Guys quick question, which belt is better for speed reducer system. V belt cogged or round ? 40mm pulley. thnx Cogged, if possible, because of the tiny motor pulley. Definitely use type 3L v-belts rather than round leather, which will tend to slip a lot under load. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members TinkerTailor Posted November 16, 2016 Members Report Posted November 16, 2016 22 hours ago, Wizcrafts said: Cogged, if possible, because of the tiny motor pulley. Definitely use type 3L v-belts rather than round leather, which will tend to slip a lot under load. On a side note, If you are stuck with round leather belting due to the machine being set up this way, a bit of pitch or batters rosin applied to it will make a huge difference and won't harm the leather. They used to make belt dressings that were available all over the place that were formulated to condition the leather and increase traction. Pitch and rosin may not work for higher speed or continuously run machines because belt heat will cause it to melt. I have also used beeswax, but it melts and gets slippery at a lower temperature, and sometimes i needed to get tea while the belt cooled if it started to slip. Quote "If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing." "There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"
Members photo2u Posted October 28, 2019 Members Report Posted October 28, 2019 2 On 10/19/2016 at 9:45 AM, Wizcrafts said: I use my 31-15 to sew wallet interiors and for all cloth projects (tailoring). I usually use a walking foot machine to sew the back to the interior. My machine can handle #69 bonded nylon, because I clearanced the shuttle driver and shuttle race to do so. Otherwise, it would not clear that size of thread without a slight but noticeable binding and click sound that messed with the stitch quality and dependability. Hi, I am new in this forum and I was looking for ways to make my 31-15 utilize tex 69 thread properly. I am interested in knowing how to "clearanced the shuttle driver and shuttle race" as you did to your machine? I welcome any advice, G. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.