Gum Tragacanth - What it is and how to use it.

[rustyj58]

I have actually used Gum Trag as a final finish and it worked great. Yes, it is very shiny but looks and performs wonderfully so far.

[ke6cvh]

I know this is an old thread.......but check out this video with a Rafflenbeul ms200 at the 45 second point they are mixing it with water and adding it to the thread bath.  Any comments on using it as an additive into the thread bath?  Best regards, Mike  

 

[paloma]

i use it very often ( i mixed it with carnuba wax) and i am very glad with the results i obtain with it,

 

[Matt S]

4 hours ago, ke6cvh said:

I know this is an old thread.......but check out this video with a Rafflenbeul ms200 at the 45 second point they are mixing it with water and adding it to the thread bath.  Any comments on using it as an additive into the thread bath?

I used to have a J&R SD28, an old sole stitcher. Th manual recommended gum trag in the thread bath (for linen thread). It made a mess, and other than lubricating the thread a little I'm not sure it had any positive effect. Perhaps my bottle of gum trag was the problem.

I've never had a good effect using it for burnishing, there are plenty of better, cheaper, faster options out there -- many of which are available in your local hardware store.

[ke6cvh]

I have a couple Singer no 2's.  One is an "Imperial" and I'm in the process of verifying the other is also.  Here is a quote from the needlebar.org manual for the Singer model 2/3 user's guide.  Lead oxide mixed with linseed oil?  Likely I bet it works darned good just don't breathe the stuff.  "For stitching patent leather and other materials which are hard and difficult or perforation, the Imperial Machines are used. They are furnished with an iron cup, to hold a drying oil. Boiled linseed oil, prepared with litharge in the manner used by painters, is the proper oil for this purpose. The effect of thus oiling the thread is, to prevent heating the needle, and to make the stitching of leather as rapid and easy as cloth sewing. The silk twist, after being oiled, rapidly dries, and is left with its surface as smooth and perfect as if no oil had been used – and the firmness of the seam is improved by it."

[Matt S]

2 hours ago, ke6cvh said:

I have a couple Singer no 2's.  One is an "Imperial" and I'm in the process of verifying the other is also.  Here is a quote from the needlebar.org manual for the Singer model 2/3 user's guide.  Lead oxide mixed with linseed oil?  Likely I bet it works darned good just don't breathe the stuff.  "For stitching patent leather and other materials which are hard and difficult or perforation, the Imperial Machines are used. They are furnished with an iron cup, to hold a drying oil. Boiled linseed oil, prepared with litharge in the manner used by painters, is the proper oil for this purpose. The effect of thus oiling the thread is, to prevent heating the needle, and to make the stitching of leather as rapid and easy as cloth sewing. The silk twist, after being oiled, rapidly dries, and is left with its surface as smooth and perfect as if no oil had been used – and the firmness of the seam is improved by it."

Sounds like linseed with "dryers" to me, often sold as "boiled" linseed in North America though I think it's not permitted over here. I once read a recommendation to use linseed on dry linen thread in a BUSM/Pearson 6 (heavy harness stitcher). Similar purposes.

I'd love to see some pics of your Singer No2s!

[robs456]

On 7/5/2019 at 4:22 PM, Matt S said:

there are plenty of better, cheaper, faster options out there

Right now experimenting with CMC (synthetic Gum Trag) and I can't find anything cheaper per liter. I'm sure there are better things out there but CMC gives a lot of bang for your bucks. 

[Matt S]

1 hour ago, robs456 said:

Right now experimenting with CMC (synthetic Gum Trag) and I can't find anything cheaper per liter. I'm sure there are better things out there but CMC gives a lot of bang for your bucks. 

In no particular order I've had more success than with gum tragacanth burnishing with: gum arabic, wallpaper paste, white PVA glue, spirit dye, spit/saliva, industrial alcohol, Sharpie, diluted clear acrylic, shellac/French polish, water based varnish, glycerine hand soap, plain tap water, paste saddle soap, those clear glue pens kids use... the effectiveness of any of them depends on technique and the individual piece (tannage, finish, each individual hide and sometimes even where in each hide it comes from). Can't say I've ever tried CMC and I don't know how cheap it is, but plenty of these options are free or nearly free.

[bermudahwin]

Based on everything else tanners and curriers used historically, there should be a record somewhere.