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Posted

Hello good people,

I hand sew everything and really like the look of it vs machine sewing. However, the volume of my work is increasing and my hands are getting REALLY really tired of making every single hole by hand with an awl. I often punch through two glued layers of leather and thats even tougher to do. I have tried using a large number of diamond hole punches, chisel punches, you name it. Almost every kind of multiple hole punch tools and find that some of those holes too big for my liking especially when I sew through things like fine narrow watch straps. I know machine sewing would be the answer but I dont want to go there. Does anyone know of any other way to make the holes faster than one by one with an awl? I wondered a few times if using a sewing machine WITHOUT thread for the purpose of making holes, would work, but I dont have an industrial machine. Any ideas anyone? Id really appreciate it.

Regards,

NYIS

I use diamond stitching chisels mostly:http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/tools/punches/88043-535.aspx

Also called pricking irons, though, I think they are a bit different in operation. I know I am tons faster with the chisels, noisier, but faster.

Al

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Posted

I too use diamond chisels for the larger projects. I can get around a perimeter of 62" within a half hour. I leave the leather slightly damp so that the chisel is easier to withdraw and you don't have to punch it so far through (as so many people do with all of their thonging/stitching chisels).

Can't think of any other methods that would make it easier aside from changing up the type of assembly work (if possible).

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Posted

I recently bought a stitching punch to speed things up although I have three old cast iron Singers and any of them would probably have worked without thread. Actually I'm hand sewing a project now and left my punch and good awl at work so I think I'm going to try that on a project I'm currently working on and see if it works. I'll let you know if it does because these old Singers can be had for a song if you don't need anything but the flywheel and needle assembly to work. Cheryl

Posted

I use a drill press and use my diamond awl blade to punch my holes. You don't need to ever turn the machine on, just use the handle on the drill press to punch the holes. You can punch thru fairly thick leather without much effort. I know some people use a tiny drill bit, but you are still removing material from the hole. If you get a Tandy awl handle, you can pull the chuck out of the wooden handle. It may take a little effort, but it will come. The end of the chuck is a round shaft that fits right into the drill press just like a normal bit would. You can angle your blade just the way you want. Mark your holes like you normally would and punch away. If I am doing a belt, I will take and set up and guide along the back to keep the distance from the edge uniform. It doesn't take long to do a belt, and if you have your chuck set chuck set correctly, your holes will match up just right from front to back. Just a suggestion that works for me, Terry

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Posted

Do you have to use the glue?

In my case it's glue that's causing most of the awl blade drag, so I try to avoid it when I can and use tacks instead...

Posted

The problem I had with any type of press is having the leather come back up with the awl because there isn't a foot or restraint to hold it down.

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Posted

Here's my experience with this subject.

I once said " I'll never use a machine to stitch my work) I felt that hand stitching was superior, and to some degree it is but I got to the point you're at where I could no longer keep up and really didn't want to try so I had to get a machine or quit taking orders(quit making money) . I now have about a dozen machines for all different purposes and about 98% of my work gets stitched on a machine. I've had no stitch failures since switching to a machine and no customers ever mentioned that they were able to tell the difference. I simply stopped mentioning that they were hand stitched, easy peasy.

That all being said I'm a traditionalist and when I do handsew something I do it with two needles and an awl ,after all if I were to take a shortcut if just use a machine and be done with it. I would say a diamond needle in a press of sorts would produce the same outcome as hand stitching and would be ok but I always tried not to be tempted to take shortcuts that's going to look like a shortcut was taken, the chisels and punches always leave too big of a hole IMO and I don't like the looks of drilled holes or any other method that leaves a round hole.

I would seriously consider a machine, if its financial reasons that is understandable but if you're busy enough to need one you should be able to swing something, if not you need to raise your prices! Many people on here produce some very high quality items and many stitch on some type of machine and I wouldn't even think about saying they make an inferior product because it was machine stitched.

Find someone local to you who has a machine and go spend some time with them and see what they can do, they open far more doors than they close. I would not be where I'm at if I didn't buy my first machine.

Good luck.

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Posted

anyone ever consider modifying an arbor press to accept a punch?

www.smithleatherworks.com

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

i refuse any faster way, i punch my leather pieces a single piece by a single piece, all i need are just patient and calculate the measurements precisely. i want my work to be as close to 100% handmade as possible.

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

anyone ever consider modifying an arbor press to accept a punch?

I have modified a press and attached a Jacobs drill chuck to it to use with the diamond awl. It also works very well for punching the holes for belts, chicago screws, and installing snaps. For making the 2 layer belts and holsters, I don't have much of an issue on keeping the leather on the table portion just using finger pressure. I did take a 2x4 and cut/glue a piece of scrap on it that I can use as a foot if I have some tough sections. I am actually using a cheap plastic cutting board under it that is working out well as a temporary table until I can make a thin metal adjustable table that will be adjusted to use as a guide for faster punching stitching holes.

My advice is buy a bigger arbor press to have more clearance.

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