thekid77 Report post Posted June 4, 2013 Hi friends, This was my first go at a box pocket... I was wondering if anyone could suggest a way to neatly trim off the excess leather flaps on each corner??? As can be seen in the photos, I trimmed off the flaps, but they look raw and unfinished... I have thought about getting some thin transparency film to lay on the leather when i'm making the cuts so that I can trim as close as possible without cutting the leather along the edge... Anyone chime in? Thanks!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted June 4, 2013 The way I would make that item is to mold it in one piece, . . . no seam at the corner. You need to make a wooden form to do that, . . . and the first few seem hard, . . . but you should quickly catch on. Basically the male form half is the exact shape and size of the INSIDE of the piece, . . . included rounded and shaped corners. The female form half is the exact shape and size of the OUTSIDE of the piece. Be sure to sand this piece carefully so there are no burrs or ridges to leave marks on your leather. Putting the two together in your hand, . . . you should see the differenct between them as just a little over the thickness of the leather you want to use. I usually make mine out of southern yellow pine, . . . just one 8 foot 2 x 8 lasts me a long time making these forms. The most important tool you need is a good router and router blades, . . . PM me if you have any trouble figuring it out. You will really be impressed when you take your first one out. Just soak your leather really good and wet, . . . make sure to cut it plenty big, . . . lay it over the male piece, . . . squeeze the female piece down on it, . . . clamp it for an hour or two, . . . gently separate them, . . . hang it up to dry, . . . you'll love it. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted June 4, 2013 I agree with Dwight that you should mold the leather from one piece and avoid seams. If you don't have the tools to make the matching forms then foam rubber can be used to mold the case over a simple block of wood. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jazznow Report post Posted June 4, 2013 Hi tree Reaper, could you explain the details of this? Not sure what foam rubber is.... Thanks Jonathan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt S Report post Posted June 4, 2013 Why is foam rubber needed Tree Reaper? Something to mould over, a scrap of wood and a few tacks ought to do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted June 4, 2013 (edited) If you get foam rubber about an inch thick,( two is better)specially made for forming wet leather you can put your wooden form on a piece of plywood,wet leather on top of that , the foam on top of that and another piece of plywood on top of that then clamp the entire works together using C-clamps or a vise. I use a 10 ton shop press. 40 durometer foam is too stiff but there is some foam here that I have yet to try ... http://www.knifekits...roducts_id=4293 I'm forming some cell foam cases today, just took the mold out of the shop press. This will make two cases. a scrap of wood and a few tacks ought to do. A few scraps of wood will work after forming but the molding process is easier when more than one item is being made and the finished product will look better coming out of a mold. Edited June 4, 2013 by Tree Reaper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thekid77 Report post Posted June 4, 2013 Hey everyone, thanks so much for the feedback... I actually have wet formed quite a few items and had much success...but this was a different technique that I found in the Stohlman case making book that I was curious about.... Why does the box pocket technique exist when molding the leather is so much easier?? Is it mainly for making pockets out of lighter weight leather?? I'm at a loss... Can anyone shed some light on the "box pocket" technique and when it might ideally be used? Thank you everyone!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted June 4, 2013 It's a dated process and worked during that time without the molding foam and shop presses that are now available. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thekid77 Report post Posted June 4, 2013 Thanks Tree, I like the technique...I see that it is still being used today on cases for pool cues...which brings me back to my original question... It would be great if anyone could tell me how to neatly trim off the leather flaps at the corners without cutting into the leather near the bottom... Let's assume that a person is using the box pocket technique and is not molding/forming the leather... Thanks!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted June 4, 2013 Stohlman has it step by step on page 28 of volume one "making leather cases". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thekid77 Report post Posted June 4, 2013 Thanks Tree, I have the book...it really doesn't say anything about how to trim the leather without getting into the bottom leather other that to "carefully trim"... I was going to try again and maybe use a piece of overhead projector film to protect the bottom leather while i'm trimming...just got this idea so i'll see what happens....thanks again Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted June 4, 2013 Maybe something like an exacto knife with a tapered blade would be a little more surgical. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thekid77 Report post Posted June 5, 2013 Yeah great idea, that's what I was thinking...I'm going to use a fresh x-acto blade and protect the leather with some plastic film to keep the blade from nicking the leather.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted June 6, 2013 Forgive my ignorance and I don't have my copy of the book handy, but would it be possible to trim the flap before assembly? That way you could trim it on a cutting surface while clear of the bottom part, and probably burnish it easier too. Not sure if that is possible here or not... Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted June 6, 2013 Hi Bob; This is how it's illustrated... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted June 6, 2013 Thanks, I see why now. It's still wet formed. That would be tough to burnish. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thekid77 Report post Posted June 7, 2013 (edited) Forgive my ignorance and I don't have my copy of the book handy, but would it be possible to trim the flap before assembly? That way you could trim it on a cutting surface while clear of the bottom part, and probably burnish it easier too. Not sure if that is possible here or not... Bob Hi Bob!!! First off, let me just say that I am soooo impressed with your work!!! I am humbled that you have replied to my question... The piece could be trimmed before wet forming, but the only problem is that it is just difficult to estimate exactly where the end of the cut should be when trying to take into account the thickness of the leather....thanks for the reply!! Edited June 7, 2013 by thekid77 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RiverCity Report post Posted June 7, 2013 I don't have a better picture available, but the sides should have flaps that fold under the end piece. Gives a cleaner line. it does need to be either sewn or riveted closed to complete the pocket. Chuck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thekid77 Report post Posted June 7, 2013 Great idea River, I'll have a go at that method Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted June 7, 2013 Hi Bob!!! First off, let me just say that I am soooo impressed with your work!!! I am humbled that you have replied to my question... The piece could be trimmed before wet forming, but the only problem is that it is just difficult to estimate exactly where the end of the cut should be when trying to take into account the thickness of the leather....thanks for the reply!! Thanks for the compliment, but I've still got a long way to go. My carving skills are starting to get good but I've got a lot to learn when it comes to construction! Posts like this really help me learn too. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LNLeather Report post Posted June 7, 2013 Have you seen this? Wet Formed Bag Tutorial I think it might help... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thekid77 Report post Posted June 7, 2013 Have you seen this? Wet Formed Bag Tutorial I think it might help... Thanks LN!!! That's awesome and very informative Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LNLeather Report post Posted June 8, 2013 Thanks LN!!! That's awesome and very informative You are welcome! Happy to help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted June 9, 2013 If you use the technique of nailing it down over a box, what do you do to hide the nail holes? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted June 10, 2013 If you use the technique of nailing it down over a box, what do you do to hide the nail holes? Start by cutting your pieces oversize, do your forming, cut of the oversize parts containing the nail holes, and throw them away. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
