Uwe Posted July 28, 2018 Report Posted July 28, 2018 8 hours ago, dikman said: You used lot of screws on that job Uwe. The phenolic plywood does not lend itself to glueing because nothing sticks to that slick coating. So screws it is, and lots of them. Makes for a very solid table top, though. Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Members brmax Posted July 28, 2018 Members Report Posted July 28, 2018 Thats a real nice job there Uwe. Its a pro version of the typical serger design, a class act! I been meaning to ask if that plywood you use is an mdo with a seal coat on it, or possibly a formica. On another note I sure wished I had access to the metal brake as in bending the aluminum for the corner structure pieces. Good day Floyd ps; i just seen your other reply of phenolic plywood, Interesting. Quote
Members thesergeant Posted August 29, 2018 Author Members Report Posted August 29, 2018 (edited) Some really great tables here. Uwe, that serger table is fantastic. Here's my latest table for my recently acquired Juki Double Needle, Split Bar, Needle Feed sewing machine. The head is probably 100 pounds and warped the original table it came with. I've been using solid walnut butcher block tops for all my other tables, and absolutely love them, but recently I was at Ikea and they had an 96"x25" 'countertop' for sale for in the scratch and dent area for $100. I couldn't resist. It's 1.5" chipboard with a 3/32" walnut veneer. I had to cut 2.5" off the front and back and redo the edgebanding but that didn't take long. After I made the cutout I tested the head in the top and it just about snapped the table in half. There was more than a 1/4" bend in the top and I knew it was just a matter of time before it started cracking like the last chipboard table top. There was just no way the material was going to be able to support this heavy of a machine head, especially with an oversize cutout. So, I welded a steel support structure around the perimeter of the cutout to support the machine. No risk of bowing/breaking and the table is rock solid. I thought the matte black legs would work well with the walnut and the black accents on the machine. I'm going to have to paint the legs on my Juki bartacker to match now though. The dimensions of the legs match my other tables, which were modeled after the original Singer H leg tables. I couldn't be happier and the top was MUCH cheaper than solid walnut. Edited August 29, 2018 by thesergeant Quote
Members dikman Posted August 29, 2018 Members Report Posted August 29, 2018 Nice looking job there, sarge. the walnut and black (satin finish?) go well together. Just be careful not to scratch it when you use it . Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Uwe Posted August 29, 2018 Report Posted August 29, 2018 Beautiful table @thesergeant, love the wood veneer pattern. Your camera work is just a nice. Some shots look like they're from a special issue of Elle Décor: "How to decorate with industrial sewing machines". Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Trox Posted September 30, 2018 Report Posted September 30, 2018 On 28.7.2018 at 6:05 AM, Uwe said: I built a table for a sunken 5-thread Juki MO-816 serger for a client. Not precisely a leather machine, but a rather challenging table to build. The tabletop and suspended shelf are made of two layers of 3/4" plywood, phenolic and baltic birch plywood, screwed together. The black laser-cut acrylic rings on the suspended shelf keep the machine's rubber feet in place to keep the machine from wandering as you sew. Very nice job Uwe! Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Trox Posted September 30, 2018 Report Posted September 30, 2018 And I love those plates too, using them for my creasing machine table I'm building soon. Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Members Firestar1485 Posted October 3, 2018 Members Report Posted October 3, 2018 Trox ... that is a ridiculously beautiful piece of art! Fantastic craftsmanship! Quote
Members myjtp Posted October 15, 2018 Members Report Posted October 15, 2018 So I have dabbled in a little wood working and was thinking of doing a butcher block style top for my Consew 206RB-2 machine. Should I just resurface the existing table OR make my own butcher block OR just buy a butcher block table top and cut out my own place for the sewing machine? or just stick with the old school green table and just focus on sewing dangit! Here is a blog i found where the girl redid her table but I might want to replace the top and route out my own hole opening etc. https://theprojectlady.com/trimming-collection-bag-for-industrial-serger-sewing-machine-diy-tutorial/ i LOVE the darker wood top and the flat black legs the image below i think was before she painted the bottom flat black. like pictured above. Quote
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