Contact Cement?

[Widget]

What do you guys use for contact cement? I've tried the Tandy stuff--way to watery; and the stuff from the Home Depot--way too thick. Is there a specific brand anyone would recommend?

[TomG]

Tandy has a few different contact type cements. The new low VOC has had universally poor performance reports. The original works well. They also carry Barge cement with folks here swear by.

Other pros on the board here swear by Weldwood contact cement from the hardware store. I've use both Weldwood and Tandy's original and not seen a whole lot of difference.

I took the new low VOC stuff back.

[jackd942]

I've always just used Weldwood because I come from a woodworking background. Works well and never had a reason to switch.

[chiefjason]

Weldwood here too. Picked up some Barge in a pinch at Hobby Lobby. Did not like it.

[Tree Reaper]

stuff from the Home Depot--way too thick

You buy the thinner and thin it to your liking.

[Red Cent]

You may have picked up the WeldWood Gel. Yep, I tried it. It has it place but not for relatively small pieces of leather. Get the WeldWood Original. I use the plastic bottles like the Ketchup bottle in a restaurant. Seal it tight and try to keep it full. When the bottle gets low it starts to gel a little also. I use scrap leather to smear the glue.

[Dwight]

I seriously doubt there is anything on the open market that is better than regular Weldwood.

If you are having a problem with it, . . . quite frankly the problem probably is you, . . . not the cement.

I've used it since the late 60's, . . . or thereabouts, . . . and like Jackd, . . . I come from a woodworking background, . . . learned to use it doing kitchen cabinet tops, . . . the only other thing I will use is regular carpenter's glue, . . . but it takes so long to dry, . . . and does not bond as strongly.

May God bless,

Dwight

[JLSleather]

I usualy get Barge by the gallon, but ran out early a while back so I picked up a qt of the "Tanners Bond" stuff at Tandy I was passing by. VERY strong grip, but also VERY strong chemical. I used it all, and it works just fine, but you really need to have a ventilated area to use it in.

[Widget]

Hey guys, thanks for the responses. Dwight, never be afraid to tell me I'm doing it wrong, I likely am.

I may have just gotten my bottle of the Weldwood too dry somehow. I bought it and didn't have the occasion to use it for awhile and when I went to glue on a lining the other day is was very thick, like the consistency of honey. Tree, I'll try to get some thinner and give that a go also. JLS, thanks for the heads up on Barge...I work in a small room off my basement that has about 0 ventilation, so it's good to know what products will knock me out!

[Dwight]

Widget, . . . the thinner you want to use is acetone. There may be other things that work, . . . but I can for sure tell you this one does.

I keep a can around for that last two or three ounces in the bottom of the can that always tries to thicken up, . . . a capfull of acetone thins it out and makes it work.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Widget]

Dwight,

Thank you again! I'll try that...

[thekid77]

Another few things to consider: 1. Weldwood works great IF you allow the glue to set (become tacky, not wet to the touch), before bonding the two surfaces...I don't even think about using it if the air around me is cooler than 65 degrees because the solvent in the cement does not evaporate. The amount of time it takes for the glue to set largely depends on the temperature...

The solvent in weldwood likes to go into that body and stay...try to use it out in the open if possible, and AWAY from any flame or pilot light, ie water heater...the fumes can collect on the ground and ignite blowing everything up.

Others can chime in and correct me if I'm wrong, but just a little heads up...good luck

[cgleathercraft]

Tried Weldwood after reading a lot of posts about it and it holds stronger than anything else I've worked with. Just make sure not to over-apply.

[TomG]

Has anyone ever laid down a coat of contact cement to fill the leather. I thought I had seen somewhere that if the leather was very rough and porous, to lay down a coat, let it dry, then lay down a second coat, allow to tack up as normal and slap together.

Not sure how that would work.

Edited December 16, 2013 by TomG

[St8LineGunsmith]

I use Dap contact cement.

put it on both pieces let it almost dry then slap the two parts together, lightly pound the joint with a mallet and it will not come apart.

[St8LineGunsmith]

LOL

I just googledDap contact cement and guess what? that'd be Dap Weldwood Contact Cement

Edited December 17, 2013 by St8LineGunsmith

[Northmount]

Has anyone ever laid down a coat of contact cement to fill the leather. I thought I had seen somewhere that if the leather was very rough and porous, to lay down a coat, let it dry, then lay down a second coat, allow to tack up as normal and slap together.

Not sure how that would work.

Wood or leather, if it is too porous, it doesn't leave enough cement on the surface. So yes a second light coat helps.

Tom G

Ha ha! Two Tom Gs

[ramrod]

one thing i do to spread the cement round is to use an old credit card - much as a body man would use a plastic squeegee. this is great for covering large areas. another thing i like to do is to reuse my brush after it has hardened. the very tip of the bristles come back to life when spreading the cement. it works better than trying to spread the cement with a new, soft bristle brush.

just sayin'.