Modified Embossing Not Making A Strong Impression

[jimmy eng]

I've got a round bar with a threaded countersunk plate on one end made for my drill press hoping it would convert it to a dedicated embossing press but the impressions are very weak. So far I can only get it to make a okay impression on veg tan if I wet the surface.

Any suggestions would be appreciated to try and get a better result from it. My housemate said drill presses don't really exert pressure, so I guess that's my issue. I've tried to put different sized bricks underneath to see if the spring will compress more but it doesn't. I wanted it to do quick stamping jobs.

[jimmy eng]

The topic is meant to say 'Modified embosser not making a strong impression', stupid phone correction!

[electrathon]

You need to press a lot harder than you can with that set-up. A vise, clamp, book press, something along those lines would be a minimum.

[jimmy eng]

I didn't want to admit it to myself I guess. Cheers electrthon. I'll buy an arbor press to do the job, use this one for printing or something.

[gordond]

use a cheap H Frame press ..supercheap @AUD$149...[6 ton]

case the leather ...

use "firmish" rubber under the leather [metal plate ,rubber, leather, metal die,metal plate]

not fast; but it will work well ,giving a deep[and lasting ] impression.

[Tree Reaper]

Look at buying a 10 ton shop press, you can use it for clicking or embossing.

This is what I use, they come on sale once a year so you just have to keep an eye out for a deal.

http://images.palcdn.com/hlr-system/WebPhotos/83/838/8382/8382756.jpg?_v=2cb8ebcc-e8e3-46c3-a847-f059c66ccd76

[Northmount]

The topic is meant to say 'Modified embosser not making a strong impression', stupid phone correction!

Fixed it for you!

Tom

[Dwight]

The first problem is I believe, the size of the plate. That much surface area needs some serious pressure, . . . and a solid bottom under it. Foam, wood, etc. will not do it, . . . steel would be preferred, . . . cover it with masking tape to prevent rust, etc.

Secondly, . . . properly case the leather. Give it a good dunk in water, . . . submerge it for a good 15 seconds in water that is warm enough to feel warm, but not hot enough that you cannot keep your hands in it comfortably.

Third, . . . cut the pieces a bit bigger than the finished product you want (I assumed you are making beer coasters). It makes for a whole lot easier handling as well as the water gets into the leather where it needs to be quicker and easier when cut into smaller pieces.

When they are cut, . . . put them in the water and bend them back and forth a couple of times, . . . it works kind of like squeezing a sponge in water when you want to get it wetter, quicker.

After you bring it out of the water, . . . lay it on a towel, . . . flesh side down, . . . let it return in color to just almost natural leather color, . . . it will be properly cased for your job, . . . put in under the press, . . . go for it.

May God bless,

Dwight

[mmirob]

Your die is really the inherent problem. Try having the die made in reverse before spending a lot of money on a new press unless you plan on doing a lot of this. For example the "beer club" in the positive not negative, same with border. It will have less surface area to press nicely into your leather.