Pfaff 335 Manual For Older Version Needed

[jimi]

Thanks Hockeymender for the manuals.

[BradR]

Thank you, thats very useful. Brad.

[dikman]

Thanks Uwe, you've done well . That's exactly the model I just bought, complete with binder. Interestingly, the label plate on mine says 335-17B, second line just has L, no H to indicate foot lift.

[jimi]

Any chance of a picture of your machine to compare similaritys dikman?

[dikman]

I posted a couple here - http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=66106

Let me know if you want specific areas.

[jimi]

your needle bar

[dikman]

I'll take a couple of photos tomorrow, jimi. A couple of things I've found so far - mine has a disengeable pulley, there is a knob on the handwheel that releases the pulley (I'm not quite sure why it would be needed, unless it's a primitive form of release if the needle jams, and it appears that it was not normally fitted) and there is no automatic thread tension release when the presser foot is lifted, mine has a small lever on the tension assembly that you flick up to release tension. That, and the fact that there is no "H" marking on it makes me think mine might be a pretty early model?

Edited October 3, 2015 by dikman

[jimi]

The fly wheel nut at the back disengages to let you fill up a bobbin with a bobbin winder without the needle working all the time??, and possibly at the back of your thread tension unit there should be a hole going through the casting to the other side. this is where a long pin goes which automatically releases the two disks when you lift the foot up. i think my pfaff is the same or older as it was the black version, and it had the hole there in the casting already. so when i changed the single broken tension unit to a newer pfaff one, the parts just fitted no problem so you might just need a pin, thats all??

[dikman]

The fly wheel nut at the back disengages to let you fill up a bobbin with a bobbin winder without the needle working all the time??

I should have known that, as my (domestic) Singer 201K does exactly that. Because my industrial Singers don't do it, it didn't occur to me that another manufacturer would still use it on bigger machines. Dohhh.

Nope, no hole in the casting that I can see.

[johnbigsby]

I'm having issues with the needle position of my 335-h2-17/01 bs. I can't find the adjustment procedure listed in the manual for the 145 and it doesn't appear to be close to the same mechanism in the newer 335s. Can anyone give me a hand with this?

[jimi]

Hi John, whats the problem with your needle position??

[johnbigsby]

Hi Jimi.

I changed the feed dogs to a binder style and adjusted their relative horizontal position in order to let the needle pass through the hole. The problem is when I sew with the binder attachment the stitches are too close to the edge of the binding tape and it won't sew the binding on to the material when I try to sew corners or even loose curves.

I need a bit of extra clearance for the binding tape but I can't move the feed dogs anymore without the needle missing the hole and smashing into the feed dog.

I was told that I could move the needle bar "carriage, for lack of a better word, in order to Center over the new position of the hole. I found instructions in the newer 335 manual but I haven't found an older manual to see if this is possible.

Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Best John.

[Uwe]

You should be able to move the binder attachment to the left to adjust the relative stitch line position. Consider the needle position fixed. You need to move the other stuff. The folder part usually has slots to allow left/right movement of the folded tape. Do you have a close-up picture of your setup?

Edited November 24, 2015 by Uwe

[johnbigsby]

Hi Uwe,

Thanks for the response. I've got the binder as close to the feed dogs as I can get it. I actually filed the inside of the feed dog to get it closer with some success.

I'm trying to post some pictures so you can see what I mean. I'm on my phone at the moment so I don't really have tons of options so to post the pica right now. I'll see what I can come up with and if not I'll have to do it from my pc at home.

[johnbigsby]

Hi Uwe.

Here is a pic.

[Uwe]

It's quite possible that your binder is set up perfectly fine and it's your tape that's not the right size for the folder. It needs to be pretty much EXACTLY 26mm wide for this folder. You cannot use a 26mm folder with 20mm tape, for example.

They make folders in very small increments to fit a specific tape size:

It looks like a huge folder attachment - are you sure it's intended for a Pfaff 335?

If the tape size is right and the folder is right, perhaps it is supposed to be further to the left, lining up with the inside edge of the outer presser foot and stay in front of the feed dog:

Maybe Joe from HockeyMender can chime in - he's the resident expert of Pfaff 335 binding operations. I'm just making slightly educated guesses.

Edited November 24, 2015 by Uwe

[jimi]

Hi John, i have put the binder setup on and taken a few pictures. it looks like the same setup as i have basically apart from the binding tape. i have used some thin leather cut to 20mm wide as marked on the binder attachment. this feed dog is generic and the needle is right up against the right hand side and i don´t have any more room either to move it. so it would have to be filed or sanded down to line up the needle in the hole, but if that is the case it would shorten even more the distance from the edge of the binding material to the needle entry point as it would push the binder attachment further to the right?? maybe they just made the needle hole too much over on the left side??. i broke 2 needles size 120 in the process then changed to a 110. this is just slightly thinner and has not broken. like uwe said, the needle bar has to stay where it is otherwise you will hit your hook on the bottom or you will have skipped stitches or none at all?? looking at your pictures john i can´t see why you are not stitching on the bias binder tape? check out a thin piece of leather and try that?have a look, regards jimi.

Edited November 25, 2015 by jimi

[johnbigsby]

Hey all, first off I wanted to say a big thanks to everyone who's been helping me troubleshoot this issue. This forum is a huge help and very useful. Now down to business.

I reinstalled the bottom feed dogs and reassured that all of the parts were properly tightened and in place. I think the bottom feed dog was loose and cause the tape to move around underneath the material resulting in the dropped stitches.

That being said I think the feed dog may not be properly machined and that the hole is not completely in the correct position. I will try a new feed dog set potentially in the future.

I will also try a 24mm binder. I'm using 1" tape so I thought the 26mm would be appropriate. I do also have 7/8 tape so it won't go to waste.

I may also try to machine away a bit more of the feed dog to allow the binder more room to adjust to the left.

I will post my results when I get back to the shop.

Thanks again everyone!

[asimkarimov]

On ‎28‎/‎09‎/‎2015 at 4:27 AM, Uwe said:

Joe (Hockeymender) kindly lent me his copied vintage Pfaff 335 Instruction Book and a set of mechanic's service training instructions pages. I've scanned them into PDFs in the best quality the originals would allow, which is overall quite nice. I also ran text recognition (OCR) on the files, so the PDFs should be text searchable.

You can download the Pfaff 335 Instruction Book here:

Pfaff 335 Instruction Book (old casting, until the late '90s)

The service instructions cover various older Pfaff models:

Pfaff Service Instructions (various older models)

I'll also try to upload the instruction book to manualslib.com to make it accessible to a larger audience.

Great thanks Uwe! God bless you men! Big respect!

[alexitbe]

On 22.9.2015 at 11:06 PM, Uwe said:

You may be out of luck finding a manual for the old Pfaff 335 online other than some subclass parts lists.

Your best bet may be to start with a manual for the Pfaff 145 (or the Pfaff 145 Parts Manual). The 145 was essentially the flatbed versions of the old 335. Everything above the bed should be the same, including threading diagram, stitch length regulator, needle system info, etc.

For what's going on inside the cylinder arm, look at the manuals for the new Pfaff 335 version (see manual links at bottom of the linked page) and hope that very little has changed in the cylinder arm area.

As for dating a Pfaff machine, I came across this attached chart some time ago:

Figuring out how to post a picture in this forum may be harder than getting your Pfaff 335 to work properly.

Thanks for this lists...  The engineer's manual will come in very useful for my "new" old machine.  Thanks for the effort you put in to the community.

Alex

[geiercustomleather]

On 9/27/2015 at 8:27 PM, Uwe said:

Joe (Hockeymender) kindly lent me his copied vintage Pfaff 335 Instruction Book and a set of mechanic's service training instructions pages. I've scanned them into PDFs in the best quality the originals would allow, which is overall quite nice. I also ran text recognition (OCR) on the files, so the PDFs should be text searchable.

You can download the Pfaff 335 Instruction Book here:

Pfaff 335 Instruction Book (old casting, until the late '90s)

The service instructions cover various older Pfaff models:

Pfaff Service Instructions (various older models)

I'll also try to upload the instruction book to manualslib.com to make it accessible to a larger audience.

Uwe, 

Would these Pfaff 335 manuals be similar to a Pfaff 337-734 as I just purchased a 337-734 from Techsew and looking for manuals while waiting for it to come?

Thanks,

Billy