Hermann Oak Leather Problems

[efsam]

I picked up a back of HO in 10oz to use for belts but it's been a nightmare to work with so far. After dying, the leather gets crazy stiff and brittle and when I oil it up the color turns much darker and never lightens up. I have some W&C tooling leather that I've never had either problem with. What's going on here? Everyone talks up HO and it certainly looks good and has a nice flesh side but I can't get any good products out of it. Could this just be a bad piece or is there more to it?

Thanks!

[DoubleC]

Alcohol dyes especially stiffens and dries out the leather. Before I put on my final finish I use bag balm to soften the leather and add some moisture back into it. It is Lanolin based and doesn't change the color. Other people use fncier things but I like bag balm. Cheryl

[efsam]

Hmm, an oil that doesn't darken sounds like something handy to have around. I'll check it out.

It's not just oil dyes though, if I use the Tandy Waterstain dye the leather gets just as dry and cracked if not worse.

Alcohol dyes especially stiffens and dries out the leather. Before I put on my final finish I use bag balm to soften the leather and add some moisture back into it. It is Lanolin based and doesn't change the color. Other people use fncier things but I like bag balm. Cheryl

[cgleathercraft]

might try cutting the dyes with alcohol (oil dyes) or water (waterstain dyes). That should result in a lighter color that you can add to till you get the darkness you want. Make sure to test everything out first.

[Bob Blea]

Hi efsam,

I routinely use Herman Oak leather and I haven't run across the problem you are describing, though it is normal for the leather to dry out after dyeing with alcohol based dyes, and typically you need to oil it afterwards. One question: how are you drying the leather after dyeing? If you are using any sort of heat source that can make the leather harder after drying.

Bob

[chiefjason]

I've found the Weaver's U-82 Saddlers oil does not darken as much as Neatsfoot oil. It's a lighter oil. If I oil a belt it's what I use.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200640326_200640326

But mostly I use an neatsfoot oil and beeswax treatment and just plan on it darkening while I'm dying it.

[JLSleather]

Couple things to keep in mind:

Used in moderation, neatsfoot won't darken your leather significantly.

Many finishes do affect color shades (and reflection) somewhat.

Not all H.O. leather is created equal (that's why there are various grades).

[Colt W Knight]

Something that I learned the hard way is that, I only do 2 light coats of neatsfoot oil. Then I have to force myself to let it sit for a day to absorb evenly through the leather. If I try to apply enough oil that it gets soft right away, then its basically soaked and changes the color.

[efsam]

So I don't use any heat in the drying process. Typically for belts I'll apply a light coat or two of pure neatsfoot to the grain side and maybe a coat of Obenaufs leather oil to the flesh side. I've found that on belts I get good results with this method. It darkens a little but it's totally manageable and predictable. On the Hermann Oak, just 2 coats of neatsfoot still leaves the dyed leather feeling like wood, completely brittle and hard. I tested some undyed HO with a light oiling and the color darkened much more than the other leathers I've been using and never lightened up like it on the others either.

I'm just wondering if this is normal for this leather or I got a weird one. It's the HO belt bend from Springfield.

Thanks all for the suggestions!

Hi efsam,

I routinely use Herman Oak leather and I haven't run across the problem you are describing, though it is normal for the leather to dry out after dyeing with alcohol based dyes, and typically you need to oil it afterwards. One question: how are you drying the leather after dyeing? If you are using any sort of heat source that can make the leather harder after drying.

Bob

Couple things to keep in mind:

Used in moderation, neatsfoot won't darken your leather significantly.

Many finishes do affect color shades (and reflection) somewhat.

Not all H.O. leather is created equal (that's why there are various grades).

[NVLeatherWorx]

And, just an FYI, but the Tandy Professional Waterstains consistently give the leather a hard, dry outcome and makes it very prone to cracking. I have experimented with them in great detail and have found them to be a very bad choice for a fine finished product. I too use Neatsfoot oil but it has to be the Pure Neatsfoot, not the compound (which will darken the leather). Never, ever use heat to speed up the drying process regardless of what some may say as it WILL dry the leather out and make it stiffer and that has always been the standard when it comes to ANY veg-tan. I have only used H.O. and have never had the issues with it that you have, aside from when the leather was a lower grade of quality (for testing and experimentation) and I stand by the quality.

Good luck with your endeavors here and keep us posted on how it goes.

[Norton Custom Leather]

I would say you got a piece that maybe didn't take to the tanning process well. Call Springfield & they will gladly help you. I had an issue not long ago. They corrected it by day 3. That was because the gentleman I needed to talk with was out until then.

[nrk]

I picked up a back of HO in 10oz to use for belts but it's been a nightmare to work with so far. After dying, the leather gets crazy stiff and brittle and when I oil it up the color turns much darker and never lightens up. I have some W&C tooling leather that I've never had either problem with. What's going on here? Everyone talks up HO and it certainly looks good and has a nice flesh side but I can't get any good products out of it. Could this just be a bad piece or is there more to it?

Thanks!

professional oil dyes are the best way to go. and they also have much much great and even color

i've faced what you describe with regular dyes