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Posted

I tried using finer sand paper since I already have it and it made a HUGE difference! I burnished the edge just using water after sanding with 400 grit and it looks beautiful. Regardless of the materials that I end up using to seal I'll use 150 grit to shape then go to 250 and 400 by hand to get the leather smooth. I'm picking up some saddle soap this weekend! Thanks for the tips, I had no idea there were so many different options.

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Posted

For a cheaper setup I would recommend finding a used drill press on Craigslist, purchasing a burnishing wheel from leatherburnishers.com, and use an oil dye.

It's really simple and gives a very clean, glassy finish. I find that the more compounds you throw at it the less amusing of a process it is.

My newest setup is a VSB burnished from Campbell-Randall, and all I have to do is put a colored wax on the wheel and apply it to the edges.

If you have a budget of $100, you can definitely make my first suggestion work for you. I wish I could recommend the Dremel attachment, but I have not used it. It seams like it would be harder to control because you would have to hold both the piece being burnished and the Dremel at the same time.

Best of luck!

Cheers,

 

Stephen Jones

Black Anchor

  • 4 weeks later...
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Posted

Seiwa leather finish, aka tokonol works perfect. Used it for buffalo belt, for flesh side and edges. Amazing.

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Posted

On what little I've done so far, I've had pretty good success with fine grit (I finish with 400 grit), water and a piece of canvas. The only down side is its exhausting. I can't seem to get that really glossy finish if I use the saddle soap I bought. I have a wood slicker in the mail on the slow boat from China. I hope it makes the process easier, if I had known it was coming from China I wouldn't have ordered it, one thing I hate about Amazon now.

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Posted

For a cheaper setup I would recommend finding a used drill press on Craigslist, purchasing a burnishing wheel from leatherburnishers.com, and use an oil dye.

To expand on this, I prep my edges, dye with Pro Oil Black, and go straight to the burnisher. I use a hole master burnisher in a drill press. Before I seal everything I run a 50/50 compound of beeswax/parafin wax over the edges with my fingers. Hit any tough spots with an old toothbrush. Then seal. Works quite well. If you want glassy smooth I would suggest going to higher grit sandpapers too. I quit doing it for a while but I'm going to get back to it.

  • 4 years later...
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Posted

depending on how good of a job i want to do, i cut edges flat with a nail file or sanding drum on dremel.  bevel.  then sand 400.  then 600.  then burnish with just water and canvas.  dye at this point if you are done sanding.  i use a Q-tip to dye edges.  then burnish with gum trag and then burnish wax with canvas and polish with a soft sock.  everyone uses wooden burnishing sticks and powertools to burnish but theres really no reason to ever use those.  you're just increasing chance of edges mushrooming, and then you have to go backwards a step.    youll get better results with denim or canvas.  if you want a glass mirror smooth finish... after i burnish with water after the 600, and the surface feels nice and tight from the water burnish, i will then polish with 2000 grit (dye after that but dye may not penetrate well with the edge burnished that tight and fine, but can also make a nice dye look regardless like that.)  only gum trag after dye or dye doesnt stick well.  you can always sand the gum trag applied areas back and start over so its never set in stone.  bottom line, is the finer you polish the edges with sand paper, the more glossy and smooth your edges are going to be.  burnishing with a power tool isnt a short cut to sanding if you want extremely nice results

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Posted

G'Day, we all have our own way of doing things, this is mine. This is just a simple phone case.  After I've sanded the edges on a bench sander, I  bevel & dye the edges, and....while its still a bit damp... I burnish  the edges with my wood handled beveller, (with a bit of  ' elbow grease' ) . The curves are just the perfect shape, also good for tight corners etc. .  Then  I finish with a bit of boot polish...yep...boot polish , a quick brush &  buff by hand ,  and thats it. 

Its by no means ' like glass', but its pretty shiny,  and more than an acceptable finish , and I'm happy with that  :)

I sometimes use a plastic slicker, and even a plastic component from a roller door, but the wood handle works best for me.  When there are multiples of product to make, and time is of the essence , I came up with a quick and easy method . 

HS

 

Burnishing Pics Nov 2020 001.jpg

Burnishing Pics Nov 2020 007.jpg

' I have a very gweat friend in Wome called Biggus Dickus,

He has a wife you know, do you know whats she's called? Incontinentia.......Incontinentia Buttocks '  :rofl:

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Posted (edited)

If you ask 1,000 people you will get 1,000 different opinions and ways of doing things. Personally, I use a method as old as the world, and that has proven itself at a time when we didn't know all these chemicals for leather.
Once I have sanded my slices with 500 paper on a wooden wedge, and after burnishing wet,I apply tragacante gum, and sand again with 500 paper when dry,, then I apply the gum again and sand with 1000 paper, then I apply my beeswax/carnuba wax and polish and do this as long as it doesn't shine like a mirror.

 

Edited by paloma

time does not respect what is done without it

https://tradisign.blogspot.com

https://www.instagram.com/tradisign/

 

  • CFM
Posted

Just damp the edges with plain old water and burnish with canvas. MAYBE a touch of beeswax.

Hoka Hey! Today, tomorrow, next week, what does it matter?

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