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Show & Tell: Building A Shipping Crate For An Adler 69


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Posted (edited)

I didn't sleep all that well after I realized that I had to ship my precious Durkopp Adler 69. I spent six hours today building a custom shipping crate, hoping it will greatly increase chances of survival while at the mercy of UPS or USPS. The crate is intended to keep the machine from moving around inside the box during shipment no matter which side is up, and to keep fragile bits away from hard walls in case it falls off the conveyor belt. The wooden crate will go inside a sturdy cardboard box with thick foam board pads all around. The small parts and accessories will go into a second box with regular bubble-wrap type packaging.

There are no guarantees, only improved chances. Perhaps I'll be able to update this post with photos of what it looked like after arriving.

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Edited by Uwe

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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Posted

Nice work as always Uwe! What kind of finish are you gonna use? Poly or Tung Oil? :D

Seriously, cheap and easy is a can or two of expandable foam sealant from HD and plastic bags. Bolt your item to your base, set it inside your box and place a plastic bags of suitable size strategically around the item. Shoot the foam into each bag and wait for it to expand (close the lid during this process so it fills the gaps you want filled rather than mushrooming out the top). Smaller bags in any remaining gaps. You don't have to use bags... sheeting is okay but a misplaced seam will get foam sticking to your item. This is good for one or two ships as the rough handling will degrade the foam blocks.

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Posted

As always very accurate and well done!!! But quite an expensive shipping solution. I hope the buyer will keep the box for the future.

I once has shipped a Durkopp sewing machine head head to France. I looked for a heavy carton and bought some 40mm and 10mm Styrofoam plates and cut them to fit top bottom and sides and stuffed the gaps with smaller pieces. I have not used these flimsy Styrofoam flakes or the like. So the machine was not moving a single 1mm inside the box. Lots of tape and some plastic leashing straps and buckles (don´t know the English word) and I was on the safe side. Buyer was impressed by the packaging and the entire machine was well protected against very rough handling.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

Not in the same class, but I once bought an 1880's domestic sewing machine from fleabay. I contacted the seller, and specifically requested that they added extra padding inside the machine casing, and not rely on the little catch which holds the machine on to the base.

The buyer ignored my request, and after a final 'hefting' into my hall from a height of 2 feet by the courier, I opened the parcel. The lovely 135 year old wooden case had 'exploded' because the machine was bouncing around inside. More importantly, the casting on two areas of the machine had broken.

The only good thing was that it was a very cheap machine to buy, and for display only, so I was able to live with the damage.

So well done you two for really caring for the machines. I just wish that other people would take the time to do the job well.

 

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Posted

Nice job Uwe. I do the same thing except I cut hand holds on each end.

Regards, Eric

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Posted

I bought a Juki 241 off eBay about 6 years ago. It was from a liquidation outfit and turned out they had no idea how to ship a sewing machine:

1.JPG

Parts of the machine were sticking through the box and the needle positioner had exploded. It would've been better if they'd shipped it in a burlap sack. This machine's still on the "I'll deal with it later" list.

:cowboy:

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Posted

Another work of art :thumbsup: Serious cabinet grade wood there

Life's A Journey

It's not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body,

But rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting,

Woo Hoo!....What a Ride!

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Posted

Uwe, I am not sure that 13 ply marine grade is good enough. That stuff is always epoxy glassed when they use it in boats, presumably because it needs the extra strength and protection. I did see that all the internal bracing has had the corners beveled to eliminate stress risers. Nice move.

:dunno:

"If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing."

"There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"

Posted (edited)

I normally use that plywood to make my tabletops, mainly because the edge looks super nice and the baltic birch has very few internal voids as I carve the cutouts etc. I had trunk full of this stuff after my last trip to Toledo Plywood.

The machine is in the hands of UPS now and I wish her safe travels to the east coast.

Here are few more pictures of the final crating:

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Edited by Uwe

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

Links: Videos 

Posted

Kind of sad to see that machine leaving our area Uwe. It was one of a kind.

Regards,
Joe Esposito

www.hockeymenders.com 

instragram: @hockeymenders.com

 

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