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Posted

Sure looks good to me, you cleaned it up well.

I just repaired a similar chip on my 45K25 wheel.  The welder filled in the chip with a blob of nickel I believe he said he used, he buried the wheel in sand while it was cooling.  I used a Dremel tool with double abrasive wheels to shape it.  It turned out well, hardly noticeable.

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Posted

Hey you really got that cleaned up sharp, and music just hearing it sew, Great job!

Floyd

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Posted

When welding cast iron it is best to preheat the part and then weld with a high nickel content rod.   To avoid warping and localised fracturing you cool it slowly in sand and for large items you actually slow the cooling down with a blow torch

 

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Posted

I would investigate a low-temp cad-free silver solder for safest results on a thin section like that....welding may be overkill for the application. With care, the repair will be close to invisible (if you have the complete missing chip), and the high-percentage silver solders are impressively strong.

 

-DC

Machines: Juki LU-563, Consew 206-RB5, Singer 20U33, Pfaff 481, Mitsubishi CU-865-22, Consew 29B, Rebadged Juki LU-562,  Mitsubishi LS2-180,  Seiko SK-6, Juki LG-158-1

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Posted
On 12/18/2016 at 4:14 AM, Constabulary said:

"Seems the machine once had an accident, a few parts were slightly bent, a piece of the pulley was dented and finally fell of (still have that chip) "

If you still have the pulley chip, and you're concerned about preserving the paint, you might be able to silver solder / braze the chip back in place. I've been able to do this sort of thing, but you must get everything nice and clean, the fit good, use good flux, and hold your mouth right (as my jeweler wife would say) - The solder will wick right in, and a little filing will clean it up. Use a lower temperature solder, a small torch, and protect the rest of the wheel from heat as best you can.

OTOH, since the side of the pulley is not really stressed (if everything is lined up right), you might just be able to fix it in place with some metal-filled epoxy, and call it done - I've used a brand we have here, called JB Weld, for this kind of thing - It's surprisingly strong.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The model number giveth, and the subclass taketh away ......... Sometimes

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Posted (edited)

Yes I have the chip. Its just a cosmetical issue. I´m using the larger pulley anyway so I will try some JB weld. Mechanically the machine is in excellent working condition - zero issues. Meanwhile I have a heavier foot spring installed so I will try to sew some leather in the days to come.

I just love the clicking sound it makes :wub:   njaahahaaa old cast iron is freakin addictive :crazy:

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

Old machines sound just wonderful.  I have threarened to record ans use the soubd of my 29K as a ringtone.

 

“Equality?   Political correctness gone mad, I tell you, gone mad!!!!    Next they'll be wanting the vote!!!!! :crazy:“.

Anger and intolerance are the enemy of correct understanding

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Posted

Absolutely beautiful! You do nice work!!!

John

I'm so far behind, I think I'm ahead!

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Posted

Thanks a lot. :) I really like this one, hope I´ll find a bobbin winder solution soon. I already have something in mind.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

Posted

The way it stitches so nice and if it were not so pretty I'd be tempted to mount it on some box channel and turn it into a cylinder arm machine of sorts. :wub:

WH.jpgWild Harry - Australian made leather goods
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