Beeswax

[utah leather]

I am thinking about using beeswax over my alcohol based dyes for my belts, I have been using Resolene but don't like the plastic look ( and yes I mix it 50/50 ) . My question is if I use the natural beeswax with some neatsfoot oil in it what is the best technique to apply and exactly to buff it with and how long do I wait until I buff it ? How often should it be reconditioned and with what ?

[MADMAX22]

Usually  I use one of those little crock pots and add about equal parts bees wax and parafin wax then add some neatsfoot oil. Heat this until it is all mixed then pour into a container and let cool. It should be about the consistency of soft butter (will look and feel like sno-seal). 

I will rub this in sparingly and either let it sit in a warm room or area, or hit it with a heat gun BEING VERY CAREFUL to not over heat the leather. Then I usually let it sit for over night and buff out the next day. 

Thats what I do anyways. 

[utah leather]

thank you, I will try this, is this your reciepe for the finish coat ?  how many coats to give it a little water protection ? How often should it be reconditioned 

[MADMAX22]

Well it works pretty decent but its not 100% as most anything isnt. 

"Usually" with vegtan when I get to the point of finishing Ill do a 'light' coat of neatsfoot oil, one or two of tankote, then a coat of beeswax mix, then the beeswax mix whenever its required. The neatsfoot you can do a very light light coat, your mix will have some in it however IMHO its not enough for thicker leathers. The mix will permeate the tankote once its dry but I feel the combination of the two work good and provide decent protection and a natural looking finish. 

 

Wanted to add I did just get some beef tallow in and have a recipe of tallow,beeswax,touch of oil that I wanna try out however I have used the recipe above for a while, and use the beeswax mix on my work boots as well. 

Edited December 18, 2016 by MADMAX22

[Dwight]

1 hour ago, MADMAX22 said:

Usually  I use one of those little crock pots and add about equal parts bees wax and parafin wax then add some neatsfoot oil. Heat this until it is all mixed then pour into a container and let cool. It should be about the consistency of soft butter (will look and feel like sno-seal). 

I will rub this in sparingly and either let it sit in a warm room or area, or hit it with a heat gun BEING VERY CAREFUL to not over heat the leather. Then I usually let it sit for over night and buff out the next day. 

Thats what I do anyways. 

I do the same thing, . . . without the parrafin.  Weigh out equal weights of neatsfoot oil (not the compound, . . . use the oil), . . . and pure beeswax.  I pour mine in muffin papers, . . . it's a little stiffer than Max's concoction, . . . I rub it on, . . . hit it with a heat gun, . . . melt the wax, . . . rub some more on, . . . and so forth until I get a good buildup, . . . let it cool and the oil slip down into the leather, . . . buff the next day. . . . love the effect of it. 

Got the recipe from the niece (?) of an old saddler from up Oregon way, . . . number of years ago, . . . 

May God bless,

Dwight

[MADMAX22]

Dwight I think the parafin helps keep it somewhat softer not sure though. I think Tinkertailor has some old literature of concoctions that are similar they use to use.

Anyhow like ya said the finish is really nice.

[Eddie Q]

i experimented with Sno-Seal on a couple holsters and very satisfied with it (been using it for years on my boots) !!

The finish is nice and slick after a few days,not waxy or sticky at all and water proof. 

[impulse]

I posted this recipe recently:

I make my own "Bushmans Leather Dressing" by melting 1 part beeswax, 1 part parafin wax, 2 parts neatsfoot oil and 1tspn eucalyptus oil. The eucalyptus prevents mould. Because beeswax varies in hardness, sometimes I need to add pure gum turpentine to make the mix creamier.

Use the dressing sparingly and after rubbing in well, leave for 30mins or so and it will leave the leather supple but can be buffed up to a satin shine which repells water. I never use straight oils on leather as too much oil can weaken the fibres and also makes it impossible to get a sheen.

I have saddles and harness that are still good after 40yrs of service using this dressing.

[chiefjason]

I do about 50-50 beeswax and neatsfoot oil and throw in a splash of U-82 saddlers oil.  I can run my fingers through it and get enough on my finger tips to rub a section of leather.  My holsters get 3 rounds of wax and heat gun to soak it in.  Then they sit overnight.  I still do a light coat of mop and glo over it and don't get the plastic look.  But it's dull so I toss on some atom wax and buff.  Yeah, probably overkill but I get a really nice finish out of it.  

[Dwight]

5 hours ago, chiefjason said:

I do about 50-50 beeswax and neatsfoot oil and throw in a splash of U-82 saddlers oil.  I can run my fingers through it and get enough on my finger tips to rub a section of leather.  My holsters get 3 rounds of wax and heat gun to soak it in.  Then they sit overnight.  I still do a light coat of mop and glo over it and don't get the plastic look.  But it's dull so I toss on some atom wax and buff.  Yeah, probably overkill but I get a really nice finish out of it.  

Hey, chief, . . . what is saddlers oil?  Always looking to maybe take my work up a notch, . . . and that sounds a bit intriguing, . . . 

Sometimes my wax/oil doesn't quite come out the way I want it to, . . . maybe that is what I need to add to it.

Appreciate added info if you have time.

May God bless,

Dwight

[klaykrusher]

I've been using both resoline and mop-n-glo on my belts and IWB holsters.  Not crazy about the shiny finish, but so far, sweat and water have been a non-issue.  I do like the crock pot idea for melting waxes, gonna have to try that, been using a double boiler and kind of a pain.  Also gonna give the sno-seal a try.  Like others, used it years ago and worked great on boots.  Might have to go to a 25/75 dye/alcohol mix if the sno-seal ends up darkening the end product too much. 

[chiefjason]

4 hours ago, Dwight said:

Hey, chief, . . . what is saddlers oil?  Always looking to maybe take my work up a notch, . . . and that sounds a bit intriguing, . . . 

Sometimes my wax/oil doesn't quite come out the way I want it to, . . . maybe that is what I need to add to it.

Appreciate added info if you have time.

May God bless,

Dwight

 A buddy that has done leather for a LONG time recommended it.  It's what he uses on belts.  And belts are his specialty.  Seems to work well.  But I just do the 3 coats of wax and let that substitute for actually oiling anything.  When I have used it on belts it seems to have less residue than Neatsfoot from what I remember.

 

http://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/8258

[utah leather]

how many coats of beeswax/  neatsfoot oil ( 50/50 mix ) should it take to become waterproof ? I've put 2-3 coats on then test with a drop of water and it just soaks right in and leaves a water mark ( but dries out for the most part after a while )

[Pablo27]

13 hours ago, klaykrusher said:

I've been using both resoline and mop-n-glo on my belts and IWB holsters.  Not crazy about the shiny finish, but so far, sweat and water have been a non-issue.  I do like the crock pot idea for melting waxes, gonna have to try that, been using a double boiler and kind of a pain.  Also gonna give the sno-seal a try.  Like others, used it years ago and worked great on boots.  Might have to go to a 25/75 dye/alcohol mix if the sno-seal ends up darkening the end product too much. 

Just wondering exactly how you apply the mop-n-glow,brush,spray rag?  Thank you

[chiefjason]

I apply my M&G with a sponge brush and rub it into the finish.  Usually foams up a little.  Then I wipe it off before it dries.  That's probably why I don't get the shiny plastic look.  To get a nicer finish back I rub atom wax on it, let dry overnight, and buff.  It's a more melow finish, nice polished look without looking shiny and plastic.  

[klaykrusher]

7 hours ago, Pablo27 said:

Just wondering exactly how you apply the mop-n-glow,brush,spray rag?  Thank you

Currently I just use those black foam brushes.  Very rare that I get any bubbles like I was getting with resolene.  I put on 3 coats.  It's not that the shine is bad, I personally just prefer a matte or satin finish.  I'm gonna have to try Chief's method above of rubbing it in and see how that goes.

[snuffkin]

Hey there, I'd just like to know, do you use white or yellow bees wax? Does it matter? I'm just about to order one and I can't choose. I lean more towards this Beeswax White (that's where I'm going to order it from). I'm a newbie, help

[dikman]

I suspect that most just use the yellow beeswax, I can't see the point in (presumably) paying more for white wax. The leather won't care if the wax hasn't been "purified".

Incidentally, I just looked up the MSDS for "Saddler's Oil" - it's nearly all Naptha, a petroleum derived solvent. I think I'll pass on using that.

Edited June 5, 2019 by dikman

[fredk]

White beeswax comes from the caps of honey cells. Yellow beeswax comes from the walls of the honey cells. White is cleaner than yellow.  Both waxes will be purified by filtering by the wax supplier. Sometimes a locally bought wax, bought direct from a bee keeper will not be filtered just as cleanly as commercially supplied. White wax attracts a higher price because there is less cap wax to wall wax out of a hive. To make yellow into white wax just leave the wax to bleach out in the sunlight.  In use there is no difference between them. 

[bermudahwin]

I found a local beekeeper and traded a couple of key fobs (nice ones) for 6 good pats (9 to 12 oz) of white beeswax.

She's happy, I'm set up for a year...

H