Members klaykrusher Posted December 28, 2016 Members Report Posted December 28, 2016 I've been using both resoline and mop-n-glo on my belts and IWB holsters. Not crazy about the shiny finish, but so far, sweat and water have been a non-issue. I do like the crock pot idea for melting waxes, gonna have to try that, been using a double boiler and kind of a pain. Also gonna give the sno-seal a try. Like others, used it years ago and worked great on boots. Might have to go to a 25/75 dye/alcohol mix if the sno-seal ends up darkening the end product too much. Quote ~Dave
Members chiefjason Posted December 28, 2016 Members Report Posted December 28, 2016 4 hours ago, Dwight said: Hey, chief, . . . what is saddlers oil? Always looking to maybe take my work up a notch, . . . and that sounds a bit intriguing, . . . Sometimes my wax/oil doesn't quite come out the way I want it to, . . . maybe that is what I need to add to it. Appreciate added info if you have time. May God bless, Dwight A buddy that has done leather for a LONG time recommended it. It's what he uses on belts. And belts are his specialty. Seems to work well. But I just do the 3 coats of wax and let that substitute for actually oiling anything. When I have used it on belts it seems to have less residue than Neatsfoot from what I remember. http://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/8258 Quote
Members utah leather Posted December 29, 2016 Author Members Report Posted December 29, 2016 how many coats of beeswax/ neatsfoot oil ( 50/50 mix ) should it take to become waterproof ? I've put 2-3 coats on then test with a drop of water and it just soaks right in and leaves a water mark ( but dries out for the most part after a while ) Quote
Members Pablo27 Posted December 29, 2016 Members Report Posted December 29, 2016 13 hours ago, klaykrusher said: I've been using both resoline and mop-n-glo on my belts and IWB holsters. Not crazy about the shiny finish, but so far, sweat and water have been a non-issue. I do like the crock pot idea for melting waxes, gonna have to try that, been using a double boiler and kind of a pain. Also gonna give the sno-seal a try. Like others, used it years ago and worked great on boots. Might have to go to a 25/75 dye/alcohol mix if the sno-seal ends up darkening the end product too much. Just wondering exactly how you apply the mop-n-glow,brush,spray rag? Thank you Quote In God We Trust....
Members chiefjason Posted December 29, 2016 Members Report Posted December 29, 2016 I apply my M&G with a sponge brush and rub it into the finish. Usually foams up a little. Then I wipe it off before it dries. That's probably why I don't get the shiny plastic look. To get a nicer finish back I rub atom wax on it, let dry overnight, and buff. It's a more melow finish, nice polished look without looking shiny and plastic. Quote
Members klaykrusher Posted December 29, 2016 Members Report Posted December 29, 2016 7 hours ago, Pablo27 said: Just wondering exactly how you apply the mop-n-glow,brush,spray rag? Thank you Currently I just use those black foam brushes. Very rare that I get any bubbles like I was getting with resolene. I put on 3 coats. It's not that the shine is bad, I personally just prefer a matte or satin finish. I'm gonna have to try Chief's method above of rubbing it in and see how that goes. Quote ~Dave
Members snuffkin Posted June 5, 2019 Members Report Posted June 5, 2019 Hey there, I'd just like to know, do you use white or yellow bees wax? Does it matter? I'm just about to order one and I can't choose. I lean more towards this Beeswax White (that's where I'm going to order it from). I'm a newbie, help Quote
Members dikman Posted June 5, 2019 Members Report Posted June 5, 2019 (edited) I suspect that most just use the yellow beeswax, I can't see the point in (presumably) paying more for white wax. The leather won't care if the wax hasn't been "purified". Incidentally, I just looked up the MSDS for "Saddler's Oil" - it's nearly all Naptha, a petroleum derived solvent. I think I'll pass on using that. Edited June 5, 2019 by dikman Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Contributing Member fredk Posted June 5, 2019 Contributing Member Report Posted June 5, 2019 White beeswax comes from the caps of honey cells. Yellow beeswax comes from the walls of the honey cells. White is cleaner than yellow. Both waxes will be purified by filtering by the wax supplier. Sometimes a locally bought wax, bought direct from a bee keeper will not be filtered just as cleanly as commercially supplied. White wax attracts a higher price because there is less cap wax to wall wax out of a hive. To make yellow into white wax just leave the wax to bleach out in the sunlight. In use there is no difference between them. Quote Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
bermudahwin Posted June 5, 2019 Report Posted June 5, 2019 I found a local beekeeper and traded a couple of key fobs (nice ones) for 6 good pats (9 to 12 oz) of white beeswax. She's happy, I'm set up for a year... H Quote No longer following it.
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