The clutch motor....

[Constabulary]

the JACK Servos from College Sewing also have this "4 prong output" and the 2 prong output - the 2 prong is for an LED light afaik but the 4 prong is nowhere mentioned. Maybe worth checking with JACK or College Sewing?

EDIT:
Dumb me -  the 4 prong is for the needle positioner - I removed it so the output is free But I don´t know if this output can be used for a foot lifter too

Edited September 8, 2018 by Constabulary

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

On 9/7/2018 at 6:34 PM, Uwe said:

I'd love to find out more about that solenoid you're using

Uwe,

No secrets here, modified PF-2 is what I use for this setup.  I don't do anything with how the mechanism works, but I do some customization to the mounting bracket to get the proper height for the machine it's being installed onto.  The rod eye, aligning coupler and linkage is something I put together here.

[R8R]

I recently had an Enduro SM1050-2PF motor set up on my Juki 2810. I had a foot lift solenoid like that PF-2 and It plugged into the Enduro easy enough. The lift feature was great BUT I think the solenoid was messed up. (it was a takeoff from a well used machine I got in a factory sale) It made a high pitched noise when engaged and even had a faint burnt smell. Not good!

I ditched it and have since pulled the Enduro off as well, as I will be moving shop eventually and wanted to go back to a 115V motor instead of being stuck with 220V. Currently running an Artisan ACF-625C and a reducer pulley and that gives me *ok* control and needle positioning, so 2 out of 3 on my motor wish list. It doesn't have good modulation past a certain point though - the start speed is slow enough but at a certain point it jumps from slow to near top speed. So not zero to full but like instantly from 10% to 90%.

Annoying.

The SP-1100-NPFL looks awesome though. How is the speed ramp-up and is that adjustable? Can it crawl without a reducer?

[R8R]

On 9/12/2018 at 4:22 AM, R8R said:

I recently had an Enduro SM1050-2PF motor set up on my Juki 2810. I had a foot lift solenoid like that PF-2 and It plugged into the Enduro easy enough. The lift feature was great BUT I think the solenoid was messed up. (it was a takeoff from a well used machine I got in a factory sale) It made a high pitched noise when engaged and even had a faint burnt smell. Not good!

I ditched it and have since pulled the Enduro off as well, as I will be moving shop eventually and wanted to go back to a 115V motor instead of being stuck with 220V. Currently running an Artisan ACF-625C and a reducer pulley and that gives me *ok* control and needle positioning, so 2 out of 3 on my motor wish list. It doesn't have good modulation past a certain point though - the start speed is slow enough but at a certain point it jumps from slow to near top speed. So not zero to full but like instantly from 10% to 90%.

Annoying.

The SP-1100-NPFL looks awesome though. How is the speed ramp-up and is that adjustable? Can it crawl without a reducer?

Back to this thread to answer my own question... yes it can! Installed it a few days ago. This motor rules. Might have to go full tilt and get a new lift solenoid - I really like that feature on the Enduro but the solenoid I had was bunk.

[brmax]

R8R:  In the needle positioning function of that motor, I am interesred in the systems “ heel “to raise or bury the needle.

Can you discuss anymore into that. I had this prior to reduction Mods, although knew! this probably would not be an option afterward. 

So with some experience from your setup with these functions, Im sure curious to hear more about. If possible, please include any of the typical “ tap” to initialize a single stitch performance.

 

Thanks for the tips

Floyd

[R8R]

8 minutes ago, brmax said:

R8R:  In the needle positioning function of that motor, I am interesred in the systems “ heel “to raise or bury the needle.

Can you discuss anymore into that. I had this prior to reduction Mods, although knew! this probably would not be an option afterward. 

So with some experience from your setup with these functions, Im sure curious to hear more about. If possible, please include any of the typical “ tap” to initialize a single stitch performance.

 

Thanks for the tips

Floyd

On this motor, the left hand button on the control box sets the positioner functions - a long press toggles positioning on/off, short press toggles between needle up or down. I love this because it makes it super easy to turn positioning off without scrambling through a cryptic set of menu items, and the box is mounted to the front of the table...no more crouching under the table to adjust parameters.

When "needle-down" is toggled, the needle will bury when you let off the treadle. Continue sewing and the needle will bury again when you let off. Heel back on the treadle and the needle will lift.

When "needle-up" is toggled, the needle will lift when you let off the treadle. Heel back on the treadle in this mode and nothing happens, it will stay lifted.

One note about needle down/up here - this has a dual position synchro. You can set exactly where the needle positions in up/down are. On single position synchros, you set it for needle-down position, (typically a millimeter or two up from dead-bottom to get a loop ready at the hook fir the next stitch) and heeling back on the treadle will signal the motor/synchro to cycle the main shaft 180 degrees to needle-up position. (or vice versa if you set it that way)

With a dual synchro, you set exactly where that needle-up position is (all the way needle bar at TDC, just descending, etc).

I dig it.

Also yes, light tap on the treadle results in a single stitch with needle up or down as toggled.

[sjharumph]

Old thread I know.... just wanted to say a thing or two about the SP-1100NPFL .   It's a beast and you need it.   For some reason,  Keystone cancelled my recent shipment so I went straight to Serge @ SewPro and he was a big help.    We run this motor on a Juki LS-341 cylinder bed w/ a speed reducer.   The needle position isn't as crisp as I'd like w/ the reducer but it gets there.   Yesterday I sewed through 1/8" HDPE just to see if it would and wow.   I'll bet it would sew through 1/4" HDPE.   Great motor w/ plenty of power.   

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

On 3/25/2020 at 11:41 AM, sjharumph said:

Old thread I know.... just wanted to say a thing or two about the SP-1100NPFL .   It's a beast and you need it.   For some reason,  Keystone cancelled my recent shipment so I went straight to Serge @ SewPro and he was a big help.    We run this motor on a Juki LS-341 cylinder bed w/ a speed reducer.   The needle position isn't as crisp as I'd like w/ the reducer but it gets there.   Yesterday I sewed through 1/8" HDPE just to see if it would and wow.   I'll bet it would sew through 1/4" HDPE.   Great motor w/ plenty of power.   

We like the motor a lot too.  It's been very reliable.  I DO have concerns about adding a speed reducer into the mix, as I have not had a lot of luck with my testing.  I love the simple plus and minus button that makes it easy to change speed at 100RPM at a time without a complex timed button sequence.  Also, the motor is a real torque monster, and may not even need a reducer, but depending on your work, the reducer is key.

As for the motor, your FedEx shipment was canceled, not your order.  This morning she said that the motor is on the way, scheduled for delivery today via UPS.  All the best, glad that you are enjoying the motor.

 

 

Edited March 26, 2020 by Gregg From Keystone Sewing

[sjharumph]

59 minutes ago, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said:

We like the motor a lot too.  It's been very reliable.  I DO have concerns about adding a speed reducer into the mix, as I have not had a lot of luck with my testing.  I love the simple plus and minus button that makes it easy to change speed at 100RPM at a time without a complex timed button sequence.  Also, the motor is a real torque monster, and may not even need a reducer, but depending on your work, the reducer is key.

As for the motor, your FedEx shipment was canceled, not your order.  This morning she said that the motor is on the way, scheduled for delivery today via UPS.  All the best, glad that you are enjoying the motor.

 

 

Gregg,   I didn't intend to disparage Keystone and I apologize if it seemed that I did.  Keystone has been excellent w/ every transaction and I fully intend on business in the future.  Got the call this morning regarding the Fed Ex mix up.   All is well and the motor has arrived.   Thanks as always and I look forward to talking w/ you in the future. 

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

8 minutes ago, sjharumph said:

Gregg,   I didn't intend to disparage Keystone and I apologize if it seemed that I did.  Keystone has been excellent w/ every transaction and I fully intend on business in the future.  Got the call this morning regarding the Fed Ex mix up.   All is well and the motor has arrived.   Thanks as always and I look forward to talking w/ you in the future. 

All good stuff, and BTW we spoke on the telephone, all is well and everyone is happy.

[sjharumph]

We have a couple of the SP-1100 motors.  They've been great until today.   E3 on a very lightly used machine.   Seems a component on the board has failed.   Anybody know of a place that would diagnose and repair the board ?   Have watched a youtube vid but I'd rather pay to have that done.  Thanks 

[Quade]

I'd suggest it's cheaper to replace than repair.   When you factor in time and shipping. 

[Dwight]

I put a servo motor on a Singer 155 a number of years ago . . . then sold it as it was not what I needed at the time.

Loved sewing with it though.

My Cowboy 4500 has a servo  . . .  came out of Toledo Sales . . .  one of the advertisers here . . .  he'll do you right . . .  never had a problem dealing with them.

May God bless,

Dwight

[DonInReno]

5 hours ago, sjharumph said:

Anybody know of a place that would diagnose and repair the board ? 

The old school TV, VCR, Wi-Fi repair shop might be able to help if it’s something obvious like a blown relay, transformer, or capacitor.

The few electronics repair people I’ve watched seem to think of basic electronics a lot like a car mechanic thinks about mechanical things - the parts that make up the whole are like legos and a failure is a matter of troubleshooting parts until the bad component is found.   That methodology works. . . until it doesn’t.

Garage door openers are famous for simple components on the circuit board - the few times I’ve looked at getting one fixed, the cost was approaching that of a new board without a guarantee of an actual fix.

There’s no rocket science in servo controllers, but they do use a lot of super small surface mounted components that are more challenging to work with.   The programmed chips are likely to be the most challenging since not everyone with electronics repair experience is set up for that and it’s not as intuitive to understand unmarked specialty chips.  All this makes repairs less likely and more expensive.

I bought one of these $300 motors from Gregg and really like how much torque it has.   If my controller crapped out I’m not sure I’d spend $100 to have a shop look at it since there’s a good chance it won’t be repairable.

Having said that, I’ve known a number of recreational electronics guys who enjoy this kind of stuff and would look at it essentially for free just because it’s something new they haven’t taken apart before - you might ask in an electronics forum, or even look for someone who teaches electronics locally - I can picture a community college class taking it apart and testing as a small class project.

[dikman]

Pretty much what Don said. Most of these type of electronics are considered disposable these days. If the owner has some electronic skills they "may" be able to fix it if the fault is obvious. One of the biggest problems is not having cct diagrams so figuring out how they work is extremely difficult - and companies don't give out these diagrams. Simply put, they are not cost-effective to repair (unless you can do it yourself).

[DonInReno]

On 4/26/2023 at 8:45 AM, sjharumph said:

We have a couple of the SP-1100 motors.  They've been great until today.   E3 on a very lightly used machine.   Seems a component on the board has failed.   Anybody know of a place that would diagnose and repair the board ?   Have watched a youtube vid but I'd rather pay to have that done.  Thanks 

That control box was handy today so I took out the two case screws, dusted it off and snapped a picture.  I know very little about electronics, but if you look very closely at your board there’s a chance it will be something obvious.  Always get rid of any static electricity and touch the aluminum case before touching anything inside.   Let it sit for a number of minutes after it’s been unplugged to allow the capacitors (round black thingies) to bleed off or you may get shocked.

I don’t know what that trouble code is and didn’t keep the manual.

Don’t blow the dust off at first - some metallic threads or high humidity dust actually conduct electricity and a dust bunny may be a clue.   If you have a lot of dust I’d blow it off and try the controller.

Check the fuse.

Check voltage coming in - I was at a clients house and power tools were acting strange - checked voltage and the entire house was at 90v instead of 120v - turned out the transformer that fed the house was bad and the power company had to replace it.

Others, much smarter than me, have said they look at the capacitors for leaks or a bulged top.  Then look closely at all chips for dark spots that might indicate they are fried.  All the solder joints are carefully inspected for cracks or missing solder - the surface mounted stuff is very hard to inspect so drag out that magnifier.  Then look at any wiring (inside and out of the box) for anything out of the ordinary, especially at connections and unplug wires to feel for good fit.   Same for the speed controller circuit board and connections.

If that doesn’t work I toss it in the trash and get a new one.lol