Social poo 'n' stuff

[JLSleather]

I must be using that crap more these days.. today, I was able to log on fakebook without looking up my password

[Stetson912]

Color me daft but what is the difference between the curved pancake and a regular pancake? How is the curve accounted for in the pattern/design? I see the backside is curved to fit round the hip a bit better but doesn't a regular pancake do the same? Just wondering is all. I have limited experience haha. 

[JLSleather]

13 minutes ago, Stetson912 said:

doesn't a regular pancake do the same?

Nope, sure don't.  They bind -- as a rule, binds worse on a slim feller than a big man (sharper angle turn).  Most try to alleviate the worst pain by making the front 'wing' longer, but ...   this works all the time.  Those "pancakes" (regular in your terms) are everywhere, but I find that once a guy tries this he won't go back

Front panel is longer than the back, so the curve is built in.  As opposed to a "50/50' or 'regular' pancake, where the tabs or 'wings' are pulled into that shape, causing binding on the firearm.

Other words, it's natural shape... not twisted into a shape .. thus it retains that position. 

Advantage is, this fits on the desk, and still fits on the waist.. unlike those "regular" ones that tighten on teh pistol when the belt is tightened, this is the same on or off the belt.

 

 

 

[Stetson912]

Ahhh, thanks for that. I didn't think of binding. That's just a little bit important I would think haha. So how do you enlarge the front panel? And how do you know it's enough? I suppose you could trace half the back panel and shift it over a certain distance to trace the other half then just connect the two parts?

[JLSleather]

Well,  I do my own patterns, so I just kinda "do it".. not really making one from the other.  I know it's "enuf" because I test it and alter/adjust the design if needed (it sometimes does need a tweak).

Some ass (that's plural, actually) will be in in a minute to swear that what I said isn't true, but it's simple and basic -- pretty sure my Gramma gets it.

Take your belt off.  Fold it in half lengthwise. Put an apple between the layers.  Falls out, right?  Now put the apple in there again, and bend the ends of the belt around (hint:  the apple doesn't fall - it's trapped by teh front binding on it).

I thought I'd do a bit of a "write-up" about this, with some 'tutorial style' pics.  But, now I'm thinking no point doing that here where it's fodder for someone with a complex - no point doing it on my site since I'm the only one I'd be telling

 

Edited July 6, 2017 by JLSleather

[Sanch]

21 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

Well,  I do my own patterns, so I just kinda "do it".. not really making one from the other.  I know it's "enuf" because I test it and alter/adjust the design if needed (it sometimes does need a tweak).

Some ass (that's plural, actually) will be in in a minute to swear that what I said isn't true, but it's simple and basic -- pretty sure my Gramma gets it.

Take your belt off.  Fold it in half lengthwise. Put an apple between the layers.  Falls out, right?  Now put the apple in there again, and bend the ends of the belt around (hint:  the apple doesn't fall - it's trapped by teh front binding on it).

I thought I'd do a bit of a "write-up" about this, with some 'tutorial style' pics.  But, now I'm thinking no point doing that here where it's fodder for someone with a complex - no point doing it on my site since I'm the only one I'd be telling

 

I for one have no complex and I would love to see how you accomplish this is it as simple as making one part of the pancake smaller in relation to the other to achieve the Curve if so I may be able to work that out for myself! If not and there is some sort of magic pixie dust you sprinkle on the leather to get it to shrink please tell us so that we may run out and go searching for some LOL! Seriously though I'm sure the collective would like to see how you accomplished it and would greatly appreciate it if you took the time out to do it!

[JLSleather]

I'd be willin' to chip in on some of that dust if'n ya kin find some   That could come in handy in a number of places!

But yeah -- the outside is made longer than the inside.  How much depends on the model of the gun, and maybe even a little on the size of the wearer (if they're very slim or very large).  Seems like usually about a inch (ish).  I got a pattern layin' here for a LCP.. got about 5/8" difference between front and back.

 

[Stetson912]

More of an educated trial and error technique haha. I was just curious. I'm sure if I sat down with a pencil n paper I could figure something out along those lines. I make my own patterns too when I do a holster. I just haven't made many so I'm still learning. Thanks for the insight!

[Clintock]

No pic of the front? I for one can vouch for the difference. Made a 50/50 and it pinched when I wore it. Gun fit perfectly while on the night stand. Couldn't pull it out of the holster while wearing it. Got a kit from Jeff and can say without hesitation that the flatter back curved is 100 times better. No matter how much you tighten the belt you can still draw the weapon. Most of the retention is on the front panel instead of 50% on the front 50% on the back. 

As for myself I'd love to see a tutorial on how to arrive at the proper length to oversize the front panel. 

Edited July 6, 2017 by Clintock
Fat finger syndrome

[JD62]

Hay Jeff, I have been to your site several times. The tutorial for holster pattern making is a huge help. I haven't built one I think is good enough to take a pic of but I'm gaining.

   THANK YOU !!!

[JLSleather]

8 hours ago, Clintock said:

50/50 and it pinched when I wore it. Gun fit perfectly while on the night stand. Couldn't pull it out of the holster while wearing it....the flatter back curved is 100 times better. No matter how much you tighten the belt you can still draw the weapon.

Yeah, that.

Leave some room right here →                          ←  for those about to rant that their '50/50' pancakes don't bind by nature   

 

8 hours ago, JD62 said:

Hay Jeff, I have been to your site several times. The tutorial for holster pattern making is a huge help

Glad I could help -- idea is to get a fella jump in the water.. and presumably he find his own preference 'n' style.  Folks must be using it.. got another email the other day.. about bandwidth usage and how to upgrade service so it doesn't 'crash' again

[JLSleather]

9 hours ago, Clintock said:

No pic of the front?

Tough to get that shot.. have to alter the set up a bit maybe for the new camera area.  Maybe can tell something from this... Glock 19 / shark

[immiketoo]

Nice looking holster, Jeff.  Pretty simple concept.  Even Tandy has it on their universal pistol kit.  Some folks compensate with longer wings to get enough room, others do all their molding on the front panel to achieve the same thing.  A slightly longer top piece just makes the flat back easier to achieve.  I learned this the hard way after making my first 50/50.  Couldn't even pull it out.  Ugh.

 

[JLSleather]

I haven't paid any attention at all to 'kits' in forever - maybe should check that out quick.  Really is simple idea.  Carry for self- or home-defense is harder if the gun don't come out

 

[immiketoo]

17 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

I haven't paid any attention at all to 'kits' in forever - maybe should check that out quick.  Really is simple idea.  Carry for self- or home-defense is harder if the gun don't come out

 

You've been at this longer than me, but the first holster I built was from that kit.  Its shit, but in that regard, it opened my eyes to the idea of flat backed holsters.  Then I thought I knew better and made some 50/50 rigs.  Worked great at my table.  Now I incorporate a little Tandy into the mix

[Double Daddy]

I'm with ol' Sanch on the lack of a complex on my part, Jeff...feel free to elaborate further, as your time allows, on your theory/method in achieving the results shown in the first picture. From the looks of it, you're running, what, about 80/20, outside/inside...is that a fair guesstimation? Aside from the variance in handgun thicknesses, I figure this pattern would give you a "pooched up" front panel once things are sewn together, prior to molding vs a traditional 50/50 pancake that would lay flat on the bench...correct? 

My questions/concerns lie in stitch line placement with this method...maybe its the lack of coffee or the 6yr old twin girls...just not seeing it.

I'm now in the process of re-CAD'ing (is that a word?) all of my holster patterns for consistency since they were getting a little disheveled in appearance and style..."back to the drawing board", you might say...would be nice to incorporate this comfort feature into the designs. 

As always, your insight is most appreciated!

Edited July 6, 2017 by Double Daddy

[JLSleather]

2 hours ago, Double Daddy said:

...you're running, what, about 80/20, outside/inside...is that a fair guesstimation?

... I figure this pattern would give you a "pooched up" front panel once things are sewn together,....correct? 

Correct all around. If you've seen my chicken-scratch video on airbrush poo, this is a Glock 43 holster with no lining and no "panel".. so you can tell about how high the front "pooches" with a slimline 9mm  Impatient folks fast forward to about th 20 second mark ...

And 80/20 is about what I 'figger', if you can call it 'figgerin'.

2 hours ago, Double Daddy said:

I'm now in the process of re-CAD'ing (is that a word?) all of my holster patterns for consistency

See, now this is interesting.  Programs?  I'm not spending the money they want for AutoCad... but I do know some CAD.. if you know something that works, maybe we can swap notes?

[wayner]

im going to add my two cents worth i do not post a lot because of a few people think they are the only ones that know anything. And no im not talking about Jeff. I have made about 50 holsters from jeffs patterns and they all have been great then i get this guy that wants a M&P shield pancake no problem ive made probably25 of them . Well he comes to pick it up and this guy stands 5 foot tall weighs maybe 90 pounds he loves the holster puts it on and for all the money he cant pull his gun out , it was to tight . he was so damn small there was no way it was comming out i put the holster on it worked fine. So i contacted Jeff he helped me adjust the front panel and i remade the holster and it worked great. my point is if you want to see what what a 50/50 is like try putting it on a paint can and pulling a gun out of the holster.

[JLSleather]

1 minute ago, wayner said:

try putting it on a paint can and pulling a gun

  Yeah, tha's what I'm talking about right there.  

HEY .. did you get the Sig yet?  Are we there yet?  Are we there yet?  Are we there yet?  Are we there yet?  Are we there yet?

[wayner]

Hopefully tommorow had to deal with Family 

[Clintock]

That's a nice looking holster! I like the shark. I've got to work on one for my glock 17. Really want to use elephant panel.  

Wayner said it best with the paint can analogy. 

 

[JD62]

13 hours ago, JLSleather said:

 Folks must be using it.. got another email the other day.. about bandwidth usage and how to upgrade service so it doesn't 'crash' again

[Double Daddy]

6 hours ago, JLSleather said:

See, now this is interesting.  Programs?  I'm not spending the money they want for AutoCad... but I do know some CAD.. if you know something that works, maybe we can swap notes?

Now I'm REALLY curious...exactly what program DO you use to draw up those fancy patterns?...cause they look great! I'm creating all of mine (using AutoCAD) in a "master" DWG file, with all the layers and settings in one location...testing various prototypes as i go along to check stitch lines, "curve appeal", etc...once all is copacetic, then I'll create a pdf file of each pattern.

My access to AutoCAD is limited to my employer's software and their permission granted to me to work on my own stuff at lunch...there's no way I could afford AutoDesk's products on my own dime.

I do, however, have the free version of DraftSight (2D only) on my home PC...but I honestly haven't had time to tackle the slight learning curve for it (appears to be mostly command-icon-layout related). It does handle DWG and DXF files and I believe there's a way to convert to PDF, much like AutoCAD.

Edited July 7, 2017 by Double Daddy

[JLSleather]

No idea what you just said

Anyway, I had AutoCad (at home) due to the old "job" -- allowed me to purchase the full version at an insane discount.  When that finally expired .. well - you've seen teh sticker price there.  I did try draftsight, but found it a bit quirky.  Maybe the paid version is better?  

Currently using a combination of this 'n' that, but always looking for new options.  Actually what I miss is -- dimensions in inches.  I mean, you certainly can offset that curve by 'this many' pixels, but it tends to take some of the fun out of drawing!

One guy on the forum once commented that he just scans the gun, and there you have it.  When I asked how to do that, the answer was quite short   

Graph paper works great -- in the end, that's doing much of the work.  Got real used to 1/4" grids. Wife really messed me up a bit .. she picked up more - only she got some with .200" squares... surprising how that can throw you off  Hence the reason for the scale in my pictures!

Far as free, though.. PrimoPDF seems to work pretty well. I used Acrobat Pro for way too long, but haven't been able to get myself to go 'subscription'.  Only thing I can't do with the free one is combine pdf's or annotate, which these days I don't need anyway.

But then, the whole point of this "show off" thread was displaying my graphic skills

 

Edited July 7, 2017 by JLSleather